Can it be done?
07-24-05 | 10:19 PM
#2
Im trying to.
$4k for the motor
$1.5 for a stand alone
$1200 for interooler
Then you need dual fuel pumps, larger injectors, turbo, manifold, sub frame and bump steer correction. A flywheel, clutch that will hold it, and radaitor. Hosing, boost controller, mounts, and misc that I am forgetting. Exhaust too.
$4k for the motor
$1.5 for a stand alone
$1200 for interooler
Then you need dual fuel pumps, larger injectors, turbo, manifold, sub frame and bump steer correction. A flywheel, clutch that will hold it, and radaitor. Hosing, boost controller, mounts, and misc that I am forgetting. Exhaust too.
07-25-05 | 12:35 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Need a 20b FD.
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham Wa
Originally Posted by The Spyder
Figure $6k for a FD chassis, with/without dead motor.
So yeah, you might be able to pull it off.
So yeah, you might be able to pull it off.
Im talking $15k for the entire swap.
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07-25-05 | 03:17 AM
#8
total newb
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Anacortes, WA
teh list
I modified the list - here is what i have so far, what i'd do right off the bat during the motor install. Depending on your budget you might want to put off some of this and I know the 42R would be later but I included everything I can remember from our discussions.
Subframe, mount inserts, mounts, misc swap work. I'd port the stock upper and lower intake manifolds right off the bat along with a port and rebuild, its more Work then money and IMO that ~$1000 is well worth the work of going and pulling the motor before you go single.
Clutch and flywheel. Get something way overkill so again, you don't have to do it before single. It might kill the rear end but you can always go Kaaz or Quaife or whatever if the stock rear end goes before you single it, but thats something i def wouldnt spend $$$ on it now.
Pull the factory radio and run some CD player (el cheapo if you desire) and then stick gauges in the lower DIN slot, replace some of the factory gauges in the cluster, and others on the A-Pillar - i'd get gauges in this order: oil press, wideband 02 (that has two outputs so you can use your sensor for outputting to a gauge and also to your standalone), oil temp, coolant temp, and if you want it EGT+others). I know AEM's had a dual channel wideband for soemtime and I think Innovative's new one is even better from whati've heard. I know for the rest you wanted the Defi link system which I think is a great choice.
Standalone (dont know what one you want) and a good electronic boost controller. It would be nice to have one that can do gear-depenent limits and scramble boost with good adjusts like the newer GReddy one.
Radiator and new hoses, intercooler, battery + relocation, new fuel pumps and lines, FPR, rail, injector, oil metering pump mod with a cell for 2 stroke oil and lines for that, fuel filter, oil filter, downpipe and midpipe fabbed up, bunch of blockoff plates and various materials like vacuum line, assembly lube (or just vaseline), and a bit of money in fluids and cleaners... [/QUOTE]
Im going to turn this into a Word document so we have something to base off cause i have a feeling i'll be doing all the electrical work w000000t
PS. Rims and tires. Lots of tires.
Subframe, mount inserts, mounts, misc swap work. I'd port the stock upper and lower intake manifolds right off the bat along with a port and rebuild, its more Work then money and IMO that ~$1000 is well worth the work of going and pulling the motor before you go single.
Clutch and flywheel. Get something way overkill so again, you don't have to do it before single. It might kill the rear end but you can always go Kaaz or Quaife or whatever if the stock rear end goes before you single it, but thats something i def wouldnt spend $$$ on it now.
Pull the factory radio and run some CD player (el cheapo if you desire) and then stick gauges in the lower DIN slot, replace some of the factory gauges in the cluster, and others on the A-Pillar - i'd get gauges in this order: oil press, wideband 02 (that has two outputs so you can use your sensor for outputting to a gauge and also to your standalone), oil temp, coolant temp, and if you want it EGT+others). I know AEM's had a dual channel wideband for soemtime and I think Innovative's new one is even better from whati've heard. I know for the rest you wanted the Defi link system which I think is a great choice.
Standalone (dont know what one you want) and a good electronic boost controller. It would be nice to have one that can do gear-depenent limits and scramble boost with good adjusts like the newer GReddy one.
Radiator and new hoses, intercooler, battery + relocation, new fuel pumps and lines, FPR, rail, injector, oil metering pump mod with a cell for 2 stroke oil and lines for that, fuel filter, oil filter, downpipe and midpipe fabbed up, bunch of blockoff plates and various materials like vacuum line, assembly lube (or just vaseline), and a bit of money in fluids and cleaners... [/QUOTE]
Im going to turn this into a Word document so we have something to base off cause i have a feeling i'll be doing all the electrical work w000000t
PS. Rims and tires. Lots of tires.
Last edited by SamuraiSam; 07-25-05 at 03:25 AM. Reason: added more sheeeezz
07-25-05 | 03:19 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Need a 20b FD.
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 1
From: Bellingham Wa
Originally Posted by SamuraiSam
I modified the list - here is what i have so far, what i'd do right off the bat during the motor install. Depending on your budget you might want to put off some of this and I know the 42R would be later but I included everything I can remember from our discussions.
Subframe, mount inserts, mounts, misc swap work. I'd port the stock upper and lower intake manifolds right off the bat along with a port and rebuild, its more Work then money and IMO that ~$1000 is well worth the work of going and pulling the motor before you go single.
Clutch and flywheel. Get something way overkill so again, you don't have to do it before single. It might kill the rear end but you can always go Kaaz or Quaife or whatever if the stock rear end goes before you single it, but thats something i def wouldnt spend $$$ on it now.
Pull the factory radio and run some CD player (el cheapo if you desire) and then stick gauges in the lower DIN slot, replace some of the factory gauges in the cluster, and others on the A-Pillar - i'd get gauges in this order: oil press, wideband 02 (that has two outputs so you can use your sensor for outputting to a gauge and also to your standalone), oil temp, coolant temp, and if you want it EGT+others). I know AEM's had a dual channel wideband for soemtime and I think Innovative's new one is even better from whati've heard. I know for the rest you wanted the Defi link system which I think is a great choice.
Radiator and new hoses, intercooler, battery + relocation, new fuel pumps and lines, FPR, rail, injector, oil metering pump mod with a cell for 2 stroke oil and lines for that.
Subframe, mount inserts, mounts, misc swap work. I'd port the stock upper and lower intake manifolds right off the bat along with a port and rebuild, its more Work then money and IMO that ~$1000 is well worth the work of going and pulling the motor before you go single.
Clutch and flywheel. Get something way overkill so again, you don't have to do it before single. It might kill the rear end but you can always go Kaaz or Quaife or whatever if the stock rear end goes before you single it, but thats something i def wouldnt spend $$$ on it now.
Pull the factory radio and run some CD player (el cheapo if you desire) and then stick gauges in the lower DIN slot, replace some of the factory gauges in the cluster, and others on the A-Pillar - i'd get gauges in this order: oil press, wideband 02 (that has two outputs so you can use your sensor for outputting to a gauge and also to your standalone), oil temp, coolant temp, and if you want it EGT+others). I know AEM's had a dual channel wideband for soemtime and I think Innovative's new one is even better from whati've heard. I know for the rest you wanted the Defi link system which I think is a great choice.
Radiator and new hoses, intercooler, battery + relocation, new fuel pumps and lines, FPR, rail, injector, oil metering pump mod with a cell for 2 stroke oil and lines for that.
Ooooo Sammy i wish u were still up here, I'd love to have you help me with this monster project.
Shes going to be a beast!
07-28-05 | 03:06 PM
#15
Originally Posted by The Spyder
Im trying to.
$4k for the motor
$1.5 for a stand alone
$1200 for interooler
Then you need dual fuel pumps, larger injectors, turbo, manifold, sub frame and bump steer correction. A flywheel, clutch that will hold it, and radaitor. Hosing, boost controller, mounts, and misc that I am forgetting. Exhaust too.
$4k for the motor
$1.5 for a stand alone
$1200 for interooler
Then you need dual fuel pumps, larger injectors, turbo, manifold, sub frame and bump steer correction. A flywheel, clutch that will hold it, and radaitor. Hosing, boost controller, mounts, and misc that I am forgetting. Exhaust too.
$1.5k stand alone;
$250 for intercooler (on FC) don't know why it would be so much more for FD;
$250 for radiator;
$800 to $1500 for front subframe
$7500 for non-salvage titled FD
$350 for y-pipe
$350 for aluminum flywheel;
$450 for Stage 3 clutch kit;
$150 for battery (optima) and cables;
$175 for 2 fuel pumps;
$200 engine mounts;
$100 fan;
?$ exhausts
?$ drive shaft
?$ misc paint, wire, connectors, belts, filter, hoses
?$ turbo (can run a grand or two or three);
add at least 50% because it's the first one you've done and murphy's law still applies;
add cost of health insurance when you smash fingers;
add cost of mental therapist when you go nuts;
add cost of divorce lawyer if you are currently married;
08-17-05 | 03:04 PM
#16
Originally Posted by hoofhearted
Engine was closer to $4.7k (entire front clip w/auto tranny) with shipping;
$1.5k stand alone;
$250 for intercooler (on FC) don't know why it would be so much more for FD;
$250 for radiator;
$800 to $1500 for front subframe
$7500 for non-salvage titled FD
$350 for y-pipe
$350 for aluminum flywheel;
$450 for Stage 3 clutch kit;
$150 for battery (optima) and cables;
$175 for 2 fuel pumps;
$200 engine mounts;
$100 fan;
?$ exhausts
?$ drive shaft
?$ misc paint, wire, connectors, belts, filter, hoses
?$ turbo (can run a grand or two or three);
add at least 50% because it's the first one you've done and murphy's law still applies;
add cost of health insurance when you smash fingers;
add cost of mental therapist when you go nuts;
add cost of divorce lawyer if you are currently married;
$1.5k stand alone;
$250 for intercooler (on FC) don't know why it would be so much more for FD;
$250 for radiator;
$800 to $1500 for front subframe
$7500 for non-salvage titled FD
$350 for y-pipe
$350 for aluminum flywheel;
$450 for Stage 3 clutch kit;
$150 for battery (optima) and cables;
$175 for 2 fuel pumps;
$200 engine mounts;
$100 fan;
?$ exhausts
?$ drive shaft
?$ misc paint, wire, connectors, belts, filter, hoses
?$ turbo (can run a grand or two or three);
add at least 50% because it's the first one you've done and murphy's law still applies;
add cost of health insurance when you smash fingers;
add cost of mental therapist when you go nuts;
add cost of divorce lawyer if you are currently married;
Engine was closer to $4.7k (entire front clip w/auto tranny) with shipping=I can pick up the motor with harness for 4k
$1.5k stand alone;
$250 for intercooler (on FC) don't know why it would be so much more for FD;= I got told that I can use my current FMIC
$250 for radiator= same I can use my Fluidyne
$800 to $1500 for front subframe
$7500 for non-salvage titled FD=got the car
$350 for y-pipe= using stock turbos
$350 for aluminum flywheel
$450 for Stage 3 clutch kit= use the one on my car, SPEC 4 puck
$150 for battery (optima) and cables= done
$175 for 2 fuel pumps= using 2 pump is acutually necesary?
$200 engine mounts;
$100 fan= use FD fans
exhausts= other than a DP
drive shaft
misc paint, wire, connectors, belts, filter, hoses
Last edited by MR_Rick; 08-17-05 at 03:06 PM.
08-20-05 | 10:36 PM
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
From: cold ass wisconsin
hey I heard that the stock twins that come with the 20b are crap. Know a guy who put a 20b in a FC and he blew the stock twins in like a week. also 1sgen how much do you charge to help drop a 20b into a FD? Do you know how to port motors also? email me with info really intrested resuperg795@hotmail.com
