sorry, works backwards as in driveability. I think Id get more tied up and mess up getting the engine matched up with the driveline with the OS. Thats why I said itd work backwards. I feel like the less I have to focus on the better I do. Assuming it doesnt become a handicap at the expense of my convience. The ATS is just the right speed. Its fast, but comfortable. For me theres kinda a groove when you brake hard and the OS was just too rushed.

 

Let me kinda summarize what slidingsky is trying to say...

We thought it was grease that was coating the clutch (discs).
The pilot bearing (and eccentric shaft hole) had too much grease on it.
The grease was all cleaned up, and a new pilot bearing (and seal) was installed.

Lucky you can burn off crap from the carbon parts!
If it was organic discs, they would've been all ruined.

Once everything was put back, the clutch only held up for about a week before it started to slip again.
We re-analyzed the problem, and we narrowed it down to engine oil getting past the eccentric shaft taper - between the rear automatic trans counterweight.

slidingsky managed to get the clutch cleaned up again and resealed the counterweight to the eccentric shaft (taper).
It sounds like that was the culprit.
Advantage carbon (discs)!
Or we would've had to replace the discs TWICE through this whole ordeal...

I dunno about the response on the ATS carbon twin just yet...
I *KNOW* the Haltech E6K hasn't been tuned well with this new clutch, so I dunno how much of a difference everything is going to be once I get to retune everything.
Usually, changing flywheels is just a matter of tweaking the Throttle Pump maps on the Haltech, but the EMS hasn't really been tuned really well - especially under 2kRPM.
I do all the tuning on this car.


-Ted

 

Carbonetics has taken over as the US distributor for Across clutches, previously distributed by another company under the ATS name. I am still planning on buying one. However the person that responds to the Info@carbonetics email address was under the impression that the clutch must be used with the counterweight that they include with it. I wrote him a long winded email explaining that my motor has been dynamically balanced with a counterweight and I therefore would only need to change it if the clutch/flywheel itself is not balanced. He emailed a tech in Japan and basically gave me the same response again. The counterweight they sell with it is: Matsuda N351-11-521.

Since there are now a few people here that have had experience with this clutch, can anyone tell me if I can use a standard Mazda automatic transmission counterweight or if I have to replace it with the Carbonetics weight?

 

It's on our 20B, so we used our 20B counterweight bolted onto their flywheel.
Weird that they would tell you information like that...


-Ted

 

Thanks. According to Mandeville, the part number for their counterweight matches Mazda's. It looks like it was just a communication gap.