20BEAST FD build.
MuaHAHAHAHA
06-29-16, 10:27 AM
#281
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 40
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530 on the dyno at Lucky 7 Racing at Sevenstock last year
Mine on the dyno, 530, street ported, Haltech 2500, Tuned by Nelson, Greedy turbo, water cooled intercooler, 14 psi boost. Fontana race way, Sevenstock.
just a street car tho.
just a street car tho.
07-03-16, 08:29 PM
#282
Can you remind me again if you pinned the 20b? I was speaking with the older guys at Mazdatrix and they said I really dont need to pin a 20b unless I am going to go for high boost application. They run $601 for the larger 12.7mm stud kit. They charge $1500 for it to be pinned/aligned properly from Mazdatrix.
Is it worth that money and what is your insight.
Is it worth that money and what is your insight.
07-04-16, 01:02 PM
#283
Whoa, i haven't checked on this gem in a while. Excellent work! I've always figured you as sort of an underrated rotary guru, judging from some of the previous posts you have made. This build solidifies that and says a lot about your skills and work ethic. Considering the amount of detail, overall difficulty of a 20b swap, and harsh NW winters, you got the car up and running very quickly. Can't wait to see some more vids!
07-07-16, 08:58 PM
#284
Well crap guys I didnt realize there was any activity here. I been busy and out of town lately.
I have a few updates. I got the aem figured out and working 10000% got it tuned on 6psi for now till I get my secret part from Goodfella.
The car is running great with no issues at all. the tune is great. No hesistation, doesnt die driving down the street like some cars, ides great, starts great and rides like a dream.
The coilovers seem to be settled and are very comfortable on any surface.... that or I pulled my head out of my *** and finally realized.
My plans are to build a bolt in cage with samberg mounts and paint my hood then take a break if thats even possible.
I did do a little video of a 6psi pull. The car making 6psi at 3000rpm so the powerband is insane from 3k to 8k. Its very reponsive too.
I pan on doing more videos once I get the new part
I have a few updates. I got the aem figured out and working 10000% got it tuned on 6psi for now till I get my secret part from Goodfella.
The car is running great with no issues at all. the tune is great. No hesistation, doesnt die driving down the street like some cars, ides great, starts great and rides like a dream.
The coilovers seem to be settled and are very comfortable on any surface.... that or I pulled my head out of my *** and finally realized.
My plans are to build a bolt in cage with samberg mounts and paint my hood then take a break if thats even possible.
I did do a little video of a 6psi pull. The car making 6psi at 3000rpm so the powerband is insane from 3k to 8k. Its very reponsive too.
I pan on doing more videos once I get the new part
Last edited by silverfdturbo6port; 07-07-16 at 09:33 PM.
07-07-16, 09:08 PM
#285
You car seems like alot more than 530 but that might be your weight and that badass transmission you have there.
Love the car and keep the videos coming.
Can you remind me again if you pinned the 20b? I was speaking with the older guys at Mazdatrix and they said I really dont need to pin a 20b unless I am going to go for high boost application. They run $601 for the larger 12.7mm stud kit. They charge $1500 for it to be pinned/aligned properly from Mazdatrix.
Is it worth that money and what is your insight.
Is it worth that money and what is your insight.
Any 20b is good for atleast 250hp per rotor before it needs to have pins or studs.
Whoa, i haven't checked on this gem in a while. Excellent work! I've always figured you as sort of an underrated rotary guru, judging from some of the previous posts you have made. This build solidifies that and says a lot about your skills and work ethic. Considering the amount of detail, overall difficulty of a 20b swap, and harsh NW winters, you got the car up and running very quickly. Can't wait to see some more vids!
. I I just see a idea and make it happen. I have cut all ties to any help on building cars completely. I got tired of waiting for others. So now I have nobody but myself to blame if something don't get done or something happens. The car did sit for a year while I took a break and remodeled a rv and did some work on my house and bought a new tig, but overall it didn't take long and I think that's because I have all the resources that I needed to build this at my house.
08-18-16, 03:43 PM
#289
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
Nate, you inquired re trans T56 ratios and i thought it might be an add for the readers of your thread...
i have run a 13 BREW/T56 for a number of years around the 500+ hp area. it was a typical junkyard 50,000 mile trans out of an F body. (there were no Magnums at that time). lots of people said it wouldn't shift at high RPM. i have found it shifts perfectly at 9000 and have pretty much forgotten it is in the car.
of course i did spend a lot (too much) time on gear ratios. for my purposes the F body was the best option. the FD gearing is dreadful for a mildly and more than mildly modded FD.
a 3.483 first gear?
then a 42% drop in revs to second?
if you shift from first at 8000 you say hello to second at 4632 RPM!
this, of course would be less disgusting w your extra rotor. but still disgusting.
contrast this sorry situation w my first gear.... a 2.66
if i shift to second at 8000 i am looking at 5360.
a 33% drop V a 42% drop. in addition, since first is closer to fourth/direct my average spacing is closer in all the gears by over 400 rpm average.
of course gearing isn't all by the numbers it does depend on usage (drag/road racing, Mile etc)
my app is the Mile and road racing and my longer (usable) first and closer spacing fits.
i have run my car on the dyno in fifth to 203 mph which was 8604 rpm. sixth is really not usable for me and is too long in my box... .74. i believe you can snag a .80 which would be an improvement.
my files aren't really up to date on gear options. the other option was the GTO T56. it was way better than the stock box but has a 2.97 first and just a hair less spacing than the F Body to 4th. the bonus the .8 6th.
i do love my T56 and recently swapped out my slipping Quartermaster D Disc for a Mcloed RST double mated to their custom rotary FW. it has a stock feel to it and can easily feather. driving is fun again.
i noticed your coil overs...
i suggest you read post one of my sticky suspension thread in the suspension section. i recommend 10 fr 8 rear as max spring rate w 18 inch wheels for aggressive street and track (road racing) events. the rear of your car will slide around w equal F and R rate springs.
the FD should run about 42% rear rate V Front as should almost all front engine rear drive cars. this does not apply to drifting rather is the foundation for going as fast as possible on a road course. i am surprised that the selling party suggested equal rate springs.
also, as a former owner of a shock dyno, and having dyno'd a number of Tein shocks, the adjustment range covers any real world spring you would want to mount. the biggest single item on coil overs is... the spring rate. a great deal (not all) of the rest is marketing.
buy yourself a pyrometer and good tire pressure gauge, do some laps and get tuning.
nice build BTW,
Howard
.
i have run a 13 BREW/T56 for a number of years around the 500+ hp area. it was a typical junkyard 50,000 mile trans out of an F body. (there were no Magnums at that time). lots of people said it wouldn't shift at high RPM. i have found it shifts perfectly at 9000 and have pretty much forgotten it is in the car.
of course i did spend a lot (too much) time on gear ratios. for my purposes the F body was the best option. the FD gearing is dreadful for a mildly and more than mildly modded FD.
a 3.483 first gear?
then a 42% drop in revs to second?
if you shift from first at 8000 you say hello to second at 4632 RPM!
this, of course would be less disgusting w your extra rotor. but still disgusting.
contrast this sorry situation w my first gear.... a 2.66
if i shift to second at 8000 i am looking at 5360.
a 33% drop V a 42% drop. in addition, since first is closer to fourth/direct my average spacing is closer in all the gears by over 400 rpm average.
of course gearing isn't all by the numbers it does depend on usage (drag/road racing, Mile etc)
my app is the Mile and road racing and my longer (usable) first and closer spacing fits.
i have run my car on the dyno in fifth to 203 mph which was 8604 rpm. sixth is really not usable for me and is too long in my box... .74. i believe you can snag a .80 which would be an improvement.
my files aren't really up to date on gear options. the other option was the GTO T56. it was way better than the stock box but has a 2.97 first and just a hair less spacing than the F Body to 4th. the bonus the .8 6th.
i do love my T56 and recently swapped out my slipping Quartermaster D Disc for a Mcloed RST double mated to their custom rotary FW. it has a stock feel to it and can easily feather. driving is fun again.
i noticed your coil overs...
i suggest you read post one of my sticky suspension thread in the suspension section. i recommend 10 fr 8 rear as max spring rate w 18 inch wheels for aggressive street and track (road racing) events. the rear of your car will slide around w equal F and R rate springs.
the FD should run about 42% rear rate V Front as should almost all front engine rear drive cars. this does not apply to drifting rather is the foundation for going as fast as possible on a road course. i am surprised that the selling party suggested equal rate springs.
also, as a former owner of a shock dyno, and having dyno'd a number of Tein shocks, the adjustment range covers any real world spring you would want to mount. the biggest single item on coil overs is... the spring rate. a great deal (not all) of the rest is marketing.
buy yourself a pyrometer and good tire pressure gauge, do some laps and get tuning.
nice build BTW,
Howard
.
08-19-16, 04:13 PM
#290
Nate, you inquired re trans T56 ratios and i thought it might be an add for the readers of your thread...
i have run a 13 BREW/T56 for a number of years around the 500+ hp area. it was a typical junkyard 50,000 mile trans out of an F body. (there were no Magnums at that time). lots of people said it wouldn't shift at high RPM. i have found it shifts perfectly at 9000 and have pretty much forgotten it is in the car.
of course i did spend a lot (too much) time on gear ratios. for my purposes the F body was the best option. the FD gearing is dreadful for a mildly and more than mildly modded FD.
a 3.483 first gear?
then a 42% drop in revs to second?
if you shift from first at 8000 you say hello to second at 4632 RPM!
this, of course would be less disgusting w your extra rotor. but still disgusting.
contrast this sorry situation w my first gear.... a 2.66
if i shift to second at 8000 i am looking at 5360.
a 33% drop V a 42% drop. in addition, since first is closer to fourth/direct my average spacing is closer in all the gears by over 400 rpm average.
of course gearing isn't all by the numbers it does depend on usage (drag/road racing, Mile etc)
my app is the Mile and road racing and my longer (usable) first and closer spacing fits.
i have run my car on the dyno in fifth to 203 mph which was 8604 rpm. sixth is really not usable for me and is too long in my box... .74. i believe you can snag a .80 which would be an improvement.
my files aren't really up to date on gear options. the other option was the GTO T56. it was way better than the stock box but has a 2.97 first and just a hair less spacing than the F Body to 4th. the bonus the .8 6th.
i do love my T56 and recently swapped out my slipping Quartermaster D Disc for a Mcloed RST double mated to their custom rotary FW. it has a stock feel to it and can easily feather. driving is fun again.
i noticed your coil overs...
i suggest you read post one of my sticky suspension thread in the suspension section. i recommend 10 fr 8 rear as max spring rate w 18 inch wheels for aggressive street and track (road racing) events. the rear of your car will slide around w equal F and R rate springs.
the FD should run about 42% rear rate V Front as should almost all front engine rear drive cars. this does not apply to drifting rather is the foundation for going as fast as possible on a road course. i am surprised that the selling party suggested equal rate springs.
also, as a former owner of a shock dyno, and having dyno'd a number of Tein shocks, the adjustment range covers any real world spring you would want to mount. the biggest single item on coil overs is... the spring rate. a great deal (not all) of the rest is marketing.
buy yourself a pyrometer and good tire pressure gauge, do some laps and get tuning.
nice build BTW,
Howard
.
i have run a 13 BREW/T56 for a number of years around the 500+ hp area. it was a typical junkyard 50,000 mile trans out of an F body. (there were no Magnums at that time). lots of people said it wouldn't shift at high RPM. i have found it shifts perfectly at 9000 and have pretty much forgotten it is in the car.
of course i did spend a lot (too much) time on gear ratios. for my purposes the F body was the best option. the FD gearing is dreadful for a mildly and more than mildly modded FD.
a 3.483 first gear?
then a 42% drop in revs to second?
if you shift from first at 8000 you say hello to second at 4632 RPM!
this, of course would be less disgusting w your extra rotor. but still disgusting.
contrast this sorry situation w my first gear.... a 2.66
if i shift to second at 8000 i am looking at 5360.
a 33% drop V a 42% drop. in addition, since first is closer to fourth/direct my average spacing is closer in all the gears by over 400 rpm average.
of course gearing isn't all by the numbers it does depend on usage (drag/road racing, Mile etc)
my app is the Mile and road racing and my longer (usable) first and closer spacing fits.
i have run my car on the dyno in fifth to 203 mph which was 8604 rpm. sixth is really not usable for me and is too long in my box... .74. i believe you can snag a .80 which would be an improvement.
my files aren't really up to date on gear options. the other option was the GTO T56. it was way better than the stock box but has a 2.97 first and just a hair less spacing than the F Body to 4th. the bonus the .8 6th.
i do love my T56 and recently swapped out my slipping Quartermaster D Disc for a Mcloed RST double mated to their custom rotary FW. it has a stock feel to it and can easily feather. driving is fun again.
i noticed your coil overs...
i suggest you read post one of my sticky suspension thread in the suspension section. i recommend 10 fr 8 rear as max spring rate w 18 inch wheels for aggressive street and track (road racing) events. the rear of your car will slide around w equal F and R rate springs.
the FD should run about 42% rear rate V Front as should almost all front engine rear drive cars. this does not apply to drifting rather is the foundation for going as fast as possible on a road course. i am surprised that the selling party suggested equal rate springs.
also, as a former owner of a shock dyno, and having dyno'd a number of Tein shocks, the adjustment range covers any real world spring you would want to mount. the biggest single item on coil overs is... the spring rate. a great deal (not all) of the rest is marketing.
buy yourself a pyrometer and good tire pressure gauge, do some laps and get tuning.
nice build BTW,
Howard
.
Great idea posting in here. I been waiting your response then decided to check my threads thinking you would do exactly this.
My only question on the t56 gto trans is if the shifter sits in the same spot. I know the fbody camaro t56 will sit perfect with my engine placement.
I also love the gearing of the v161 supra getrag trans. The 1:1 4th is very appealing to me as well as the gear spacing for my motor.
I have thought about hust having a fbody trans built to my gearing and syncro preferences.
As far as coilovers go. I wasnt happy with the tein. I was going to go with ohlins which have matching 11k spring rates but i wanted custom valving for my application so Ben Mich turned me onto Dave at stance who then talked suspension for almost 2 hours. We came up with the best for my application and custom valving for my application. The new stances are also 400lb dampening adjustable vs alot of the other brands which are around 100lb dampening adjustable.
So far so good. Now that I have the stickys I will mess around on the road course. I dont plan on doing any competative racing with this car. I judt want to have fun with it
So far out of all the brands I have ran over the years including ohlins im very impressed with these coilovers by far.
08-21-16, 11:24 AM
#291
i looked in to the supra trannys but in my opinion they have priced them selfs out i know they want 6 to 7 grand for a used tranny now and IF you can find a new one your looking at 10 bills and not only that they started to discontinue parts for them you have way more option with a T56 just my .2
08-21-16, 11:39 AM
#292
also i went with the gto t56 but i forgot to mention talk to the guys from rockland standard gear they can build you a t56 to your spec they have a few different gear options make sure you use the gto/fbody tail housing if your motor sits in the factory location its the gto shifter that makes the Fbody/gto tranny sit in the factory location because it sits about 3 inches off the back of the tail housing it will bolt up to either the fbody and obviously the gto tranny sikky racing make a gto short throw that I'm going use looks really nice
08-21-16, 03:59 PM
#294
and also the v160 and v161 are 5th gear 1:1 not 4th
V160[edit]
Ratios:
First gear: 3.827:1
Second gear: 2.360:1
Third gear: 1.685:1
Fourth gear: 1.312:1
Fifth gear: 1:1
Sixth gear: 0.793:1
Applications:
May 1993 - August 1998 Toyota Supra Twin Turbo JZA80
1999 - 2002 Nissan Skyline GTR BNR34
V161[edit]
Ratios:
First gear: 3.724:1
Second gear: 2.246:1
Third gear: 1.541:1
Fourth gear: 1.205:1
Fifth gear: 1:1
Sixth gear: 0.818:1
V160[edit]
Ratios:
First gear: 3.827:1
Second gear: 2.360:1
Third gear: 1.685:1
Fourth gear: 1.312:1
Fifth gear: 1:1
Sixth gear: 0.793:1
Applications:
May 1993 - August 1998 Toyota Supra Twin Turbo JZA80
1999 - 2002 Nissan Skyline GTR BNR34
V161[edit]
Ratios:
First gear: 3.724:1
Second gear: 2.246:1
Third gear: 1.541:1
Fourth gear: 1.205:1
Fifth gear: 1:1
Sixth gear: 0.818:1
08-21-16, 10:20 PM
#295
Wow now thats some good info!
Thanks for posting!
I agree the supra trans is getting phased out so and not to mention the prices so t56 is what im after at this point.
I will have to use the 99+ camaro shifter location for my motor since it sits back 3". Neal adderlys 20b sits about 3.75 back so I know where the camaro shifter will sit on my car which will be perfect stock location.
.
Thanks for posting!
I agree the supra trans is getting phased out so and not to mention the prices so t56 is what im after at this point.
I will have to use the 99+ camaro shifter location for my motor since it sits back 3". Neal adderlys 20b sits about 3.75 back so I know where the camaro shifter will sit on my car which will be perfect stock location.
.
08-21-16, 11:46 PM
#298
Its been a while since some updates.
I wound up purchasing some fikse profile 10 wheels from Rich Farrell. He gave me a hell of a deal and helped me get a perfect fit on the car. Cant thank him enough and if your looking for new wheels contact Rich asap.
Its a night and day difference.
Fikse profile 10 3 piece. 18x9.5 +33 18x10.5 +35 with some yokohama advan neovas. 255/35r18 295/30r18
The quallity of these wheels are top notch like hre.
I wound up purchasing some fikse profile 10 wheels from Rich Farrell. He gave me a hell of a deal and helped me get a perfect fit on the car. Cant thank him enough and if your looking for new wheels contact Rich asap.
Its a night and day difference.
Fikse profile 10 3 piece. 18x9.5 +33 18x10.5 +35 with some yokohama advan neovas. 255/35r18 295/30r18
The quallity of these wheels are top notch like hre.
