hi guys,

finally decided to go head with my project!

and this begs a few questions...

1. I have haltech E11v2 and 20b throttle body. Will 93+ rx7 TPS work with it?
2. where do I hook up the MAP sensor on the 20b? UIM or throttle body?
3. how can I hook up the remote mounted electrical OMP with 20b?
4. can I just block the original OMP ports with a simple plate or do I have to put a shunt in the block so the oil will still flow there?
5. for the oil pedestal, if I must block it off due to space issue, is there anywhere else I can return the filtered engine oil back to the engine?
6. if i block the oil pedestal, how should i reroute the engine oil? (i was thinking from the front plate, to thermostat, to oil coolers, back to the engine (i just don't know where)
7. should the oil coolers (i have two) be in series or parallel?

thanks in advance!

 

Stick,

1. You can use the TPS from Haltech for the E11v2. I can send you a photo of how I did it on another rotary TB. The 3rd gen and 20b TPS are slightly different.
2. UIM will work good for map sensor
3.You should be able to use the 20b OMP w/ the E11v2 you can control all the settings w/ it.
4. If you want to block off the OMP ports then use a bolt w/ the proper thread pitch and length. Thread lock it as well. Although I would use the stocker and power it w/ the Haltech.
5. There are someways to relocate it. If I can find photo I will otherwise some else can help.
6. Skipping 6 as it pertains to 5.
7. Parallel should work effective enough.

Good luck I am glad you are going through w/ this. I spoke to you on 8 club when you were going thru some issues w/ this.

Brad

 

hi brad!

thanks for the answers. what's your rx8club handle name? i saved most of the pm's so i wanted to jog my memory.

1. as for the oil pedestal: i've attached the photo of the pedestal.
of the #1 and #2, which one is the oil out to the oil filter & port taking oil from the oil filter into the engine block?

2. for the cooled oil from the oil coolers, do I just make a Y that'll mate to the port into the oil filter? i can't find any other places where I can route the cooled oil into the engine, so this seems like the only option.

3. i bought that aluminum block from someone. that seems to be a block plate that just removes the engine oil filter entirely. i can't use that hole on the side because it's right next to the tranny tunnel wall.

 

btw, that's my front cover. can you recognize what year it is from? it only has turbo outlet to the oil coolers and nothing else. i had a welder weld in a bung in the corner to have the oil from the turbo return to the oil pan.

 

sorry guys, last question of the morning:
i have a small notch in the center hub. can i use this notch to find TDC? if not, what'd be the easiest way to find it for the 20b?

i bought the 20b main pulley with yellow notch, but that pulley doesn't bolt up to my center hub unless i flip it so that concave side of the pulley faces the engine.

 

I am Rotary Inspired on 8club. Its been a year or so when you started having problems w/ the shop performing the swap.

Oil enters through 2 into the filter and then goes into the engine through 1

For the oil coolers you can run one line from the front cover to the passenger side cooler then a line from the passenger side cooler to the driver side cooler then from the drivers side cooler to a filter and then to the oil filter adapter plate. You can see in this photo where the stock cooler line enters into the oil filter pedistal. http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/images/pg20_07b.jpg

May need to use a hammer on that tranny tunnel wall so it will fit. 20B= some modifications required.

nice 1st gen front cover. If you can find a Turbo II front cover it will have a oil return line for the turbo in the front cover. I may have an extra around here if it will help.

I will answer your last question in another post.

 

Do you have the factory pullies or aftermarket? Are you trying to find TDC to set up the E11? Your factory pullies should have markings at -5 (leading) and -20(trailing). You will set this up in the E11. If you line up the first mark on the pulley and line up the CAS to stab it you will be right where you want to be for factory specs. I can post photo tomorrow of a couple motors i have laying around and what you are looking for. If you still need to know how to find TDC I'll take some photos as well.

Hope that helps

 

I said parallel earlier in the thread but meant in series. Just wanted to clarify

 

problem is that the main pulley hub seems to be from 12A. pulley hub also has a notch on it and i have no clue what this notch is. engine is now mounted. i heard there is a way to find TDC looking through the spark plug hole. if you can tell me how to do it, that'd be the best way. i'm hesitant to take off the center hub to look at the keyway. i'm taking photos, i'll try to post on rx8 forum this weekend. i seemed to have lost my pw to both the e-mail & the site sn. the pw is saved on my laptop which i let my friend borrow, so i should be able to post some photos this wknd.

 

I have 3 12As in the garage. I'll look for you tomorrow and post it up for you. You'll never get it perfect by veiwing through the spark plug holes.

 

If your engine has the 20B TPS still intact I would recommend using it versus trying to fit an alternate sensor. A lot of people run into issues with poor fitment, and as a result poor performance, with fitting the non-standard sensors. I have plug and pin sets for the 20B TPS if you're interested.


That is a 12A front cover. Works just fine.

You will need to confirm the location of TDC in order to use the pulley you're talking about. You are correct in that the concave side of the pulley goes toward the engine. The catch is that hub and pulley sets are drilled as sets with the holes having no reference to TDC. If you swap a pull to a different hub the timing mark on the hub won't neccasarily correspond to anything. You end up with inaccurate timing at best and a broken engine at worst. My advise is to buy a complete aftermarket crank pulley like the RB, a new OE pulley/hub set, or put your parts on a mocked up engine and accurately locate true TDC and go from there. Some will tell you to simply look at the keyway in the crank as a reference but IMO that is a very innaccurate way of doing things that will possibly open you up to problems down the road.

 

Hey stick, use the stock rx7 (FD) tps if you're using the that throttle body, it works just fine. As for the oil pedastal, I had the same problem, so I had a plate cut out so I relocate the oil filter. Basically it's a plate with the 2holes with 90degree fittings screwed in with high pressure hose going to the stock pedastal-just in a different location. Probably the best solution. I'm on the RX8 site as well-13bre swap

edit: I just noticed that you're using the 20b tb. As long as it bolts up it should probably be ok. You might just have to wait until you put on the Haltech unless you're familiar with a digital voltmeter(much easier)

 

couldn't find the 20b tps... the tps i received from the haltech sensor pack from mazdatrix wasn't bolt-on. err it doesn't even fit the shaft. i'll call them on monday to find out. thanks for the rx7 tps tip!

as for the tps, i think it'll just come down to taking off the main bolt to look at the keyway. i can't use any aftermarket pulleys because the a/c compressor has been custom mounted toward the rear wiith custom brace. any advice on how to do this easily? i heard people saying to have a friend push the flywheel toward the FRONT of the car while i unbolt the center main bolt. that sounds easy enough. any other advices would be reallly appreciated while i wait for my impact to get here.

 

Well I would have given you my 13bre tps which fits the same if you can find one, but I gave it to 13brenova a while back.

 

what year was 13b re? 93+? i may just buy one from autozone or something.

 

Actually I was talking about the 13bre Cosmo engine(Autozone def. will not have) that I put into my RX8-since I used a FD throttle body. I'll check and see on Monday if the 13bre cosmo and fd tps are interchangeable. The 13bre cosmo is the same as the 20bre cosmo.