20b power
#51
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I see on that chart the stock 20B power starts to drop fast after 6000 rpm or so. Is this due to poor flow of stock turbos? I had been planning on spinning one up to over 9k but only if it can gain power from doing so.
What is your take on this? ITS GT80 dual bearing R-trim exhaust
What is your take on this? ITS GT80 dual bearing R-trim exhaust
#53
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I am going to start a thread on the complete build up of my 20B 3rd gen. I am going to post each step as i go. Maybe it will be half as popular as JIMLAB's V-8 engine swap post! I will start the thread on monday with a couple pics as soon as i learn to post pics!
#55
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PLEASE do, both of you, Felix and AutoIllusions. I'm doing my actual swap in June, but I'm buying the parts now, and it would be very helpful to see what you use you, end up needing, how you do it, etc.
#56
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i`ll post pictures soon ,things u need for shure :radiator ,flywheel (cosmo is auto ) clutch ,subframe(you could fab one but this speeds up the process greatly) ecu (i am using microtech ) coils ,lotsa coils, 6 to be exact ,bigger pump ,of course engine ,
these are just out of the top of my head , when i post the pictures i`ll give more details
ohh before i forget the most important thing u should buy is tylenol and advil ,do this in bulk as they will run out fast!!!
these are just out of the top of my head , when i post the pictures i`ll give more details
ohh before i forget the most important thing u should buy is tylenol and advil ,do this in bulk as they will run out fast!!!
#57
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well, i have now 4 days on the header and down pipe! It fits like a glove. If any one is interested, i might be willing to mock one up of it to recoop some of the costs of mine. I used 321 stainless on the header and 304 on the down pipe. I used an innovative indy gate and gt80R. As long as my car is still apart, i would be willing to build a header for whatever tutbo, waste gate combination you would send me.
#58
It is great to hear all these huge hp numbers at the wheels with people using a stock drive train connected. I remember way back when I was 16 and built my first car. Did the engine and the tranny broke...fixed the tranny and the driveshaft twisted...stronger driveshaft and then the u-joints went...next was the new rear end followed by new axles...
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
#60
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Originally posted by bermuda20b
It is great to hear all these huge hp numbers at the wheels with people using a stock drive train connected. I remember way back when I was 16 and built my first car. Did the engine and the tranny broke...fixed the tranny and the driveshaft twisted...stronger driveshaft and then the u-joints went...next was the new rear end followed by new axles...
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
It is great to hear all these huge hp numbers at the wheels with people using a stock drive train connected. I remember way back when I was 16 and built my first car. Did the engine and the tranny broke...fixed the tranny and the driveshaft twisted...stronger driveshaft and then the u-joints went...next was the new rear end followed by new axles...
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
#61
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Originally posted by bermuda20b
It is great to hear all these huge hp numbers at the wheels with people using a stock drive train connected. I remember way back when I was 16 and built my first car. Did the engine and the tranny broke...fixed the tranny and the driveshaft twisted...stronger driveshaft and then the u-joints went...next was the new rear end followed by new axles...
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
It is great to hear all these huge hp numbers at the wheels with people using a stock drive train connected. I remember way back when I was 16 and built my first car. Did the engine and the tranny broke...fixed the tranny and the driveshaft twisted...stronger driveshaft and then the u-joints went...next was the new rear end followed by new axles...
It never fails to amaze me that people always as what it will cost. The rear work starts after the engine is in the car, not before.
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
and give me 1 more month and i will join youre club!!
Instead of bitchin about it why dont you help me with some tips and pics ,so i can get done sooner (mine is also fd)
#62
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I have a kazz diff, petit diff mounts, RE Amemiya strengthend trans mount, mazda speed engine mounts and chromoly axles. Not to mention brembo 14" front and 12.9 inch rear brakes. I plan on buying a multiplate carbon carbon clutch disc and straight cut gears for the transmission before the car hits the street. I would guess that i took the necessary precautions for both accelerating and stopping even though my car is not yet driving.
I would be interested in knowing who all has a 20B swap in running condition on this thread even though mine is still a jackstand racer!
I would be interested in knowing who all has a 20B swap in running condition on this thread even though mine is still a jackstand racer!
#64
Originally posted by jamesdeanrx7
well you stated 13 to 15 psi on pump gas dude, 20 psi and race gas ok looking around 600 and Im being easy like you said to I think it might be more but giving you a safe estimate. I hope the project goes well. Just remember what you originally posted..... and if you kept your two rotor then you wouldnt have as much torque...just info for thought maybe aviator can help on this two
well you stated 13 to 15 psi on pump gas dude, 20 psi and race gas ok looking around 600 and Im being easy like you said to I think it might be more but giving you a safe estimate. I hope the project goes well. Just remember what you originally posted..... and if you kept your two rotor then you wouldnt have as much torque...just info for thought maybe aviator can help on this two
#65
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Originally posted by bermuda20b
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
Who, besides Evil (FC) and myself (FD) actually have a driveable 20b conversion on this tread?
http://www.evil7.com/
I am postponing my project for two reasons:
1) I am moving. In a week or two it will be to Tampa, and a few months after that I am probably going to St. Louis, but possibly to a different state or country. I will know more sometime between Feb and May 04.
2) For those of you who don't know, my 20B project is almost totally funded from a percentage of my investment returns. Right now I am spending every penny I can on the market because these deals are just too good to pass up. I plan to waste money on my cars once I sell, as always.
#66
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i just put a the biggest cat we could find in my car, and i put a real battery in the back. ive been working on the vacuum part of the map.
my next task is to pull the engine harness and wrap it with banzai wrap. i built the harness and wanted to be sure it worked before i wrapped it up, and it does work but i'm having too much fun driving the car for once to pull it apart again
my next task is to pull the engine harness and wrap it with banzai wrap. i built the harness and wanted to be sure it worked before i wrapped it up, and it does work but i'm having too much fun driving the car for once to pull it apart again
#69
Originally posted by Auto Illusions
any word on the bell housing problems. Does anyone make a replacement for this?
any word on the bell housing problems. Does anyone make a replacement for this?
#70
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wow, that would be sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
Keep us posted and i am interested. Would this be legal for drag racing specs as a scatter shield? I think it has to be steel!
Keep us posted and i am interested. Would this be legal for drag racing specs as a scatter shield? I think it has to be steel!
#71
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http://www.browellbellhousing.com/
Makes Rotary Bellhousings that are SFI certified.
$1200+ for them.
Makes Rotary Bellhousings that are SFI certified.
$1200+ for them.
#72
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Originally posted by cmoazz
I have a 20B in my 3rd gen. Not done yet, the engines in though, im trying to Twin Turbo it. Im doing like 11 mids on 1/4 mile... not bad i guess.
I have a 20B in my 3rd gen. Not done yet, the engines in though, im trying to Twin Turbo it. Im doing like 11 mids on 1/4 mile... not bad i guess.
you are 16 and work at a grocery store!!! how in the hell do you have a car like that. what am i doing wrong?
#73
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Originally posted by felix_is_alive
but the way i see this my friends supra is going to pump out roughly 950-1000 and more if he sprays this thing ...
but the way i see this my friends supra is going to pump out roughly 950-1000 and more if he sprays this thing ...
Seriously have you seen what most(there are some exceptions) street driven 900hp supra's run in the 1/4? Most are slower than hell from what I've seen. Don't forget your car weighs alot less than his and if you have to you can make it weigh even less.. IMO an honest 600hp street driven is going to be way too much to drive everywhere. And I also think that with 600hp you may not win the "hp wars" but you'd probably go faster in the 1320.. Sometimes it's not good to have too much power..
#74
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Originally posted by rx720bt
Here's what I have on my daily driven car. That's on 91 octane at 14 psi using a GT-40 1.22 AR. I scrap my T-76 ball bearing in favor the garrett unit. HP figures for 20b seems to be overated lately -- So is just me that I can only get 470rwhp at the wheels? If so let us see your dyno sheet. And by the way, I been cracking bell housings lately... Going to my third one. Does any of you that supposedly have higher rwhp than me have the same issue?
Here's what I have on my daily driven car. That's on 91 octane at 14 psi using a GT-40 1.22 AR. I scrap my T-76 ball bearing in favor the garrett unit. HP figures for 20b seems to be overated lately -- So is just me that I can only get 470rwhp at the wheels? If so let us see your dyno sheet. And by the way, I been cracking bell housings lately... Going to my third one. Does any of you that supposedly have higher rwhp than me have the same issue?
Solid?
That's a nice dyno graph, but the top end looks a little ragged?
How is the car being tuned?
Is the ignition timing conservative on it still yet?
-Ted
#75
Yellow Dragon is no more
I think a 20B would be entertaining for three reasons:
1) More torque (always fun!)
2) Can run lower boost and make just as much power as 13B
3) Sound that a 20B makes
I do agree that a 600 to 700 HP RX-7 is going to run with the big bad boy Supras even on the highway. Actually I think there would be few cas on the road that could hang with you.
1) More torque (always fun!)
2) Can run lower boost and make just as much power as 13B
3) Sound that a 20B makes
I do agree that a 600 to 700 HP RX-7 is going to run with the big bad boy Supras even on the highway. Actually I think there would be few cas on the road that could hang with you.