Bushing mounted.

 

Would there be any downfall to running the mounts without bushings? Except for the vibration which wouldn't bother me.

-Destin

 

I think the vibrations would be a real bother if there were no bushings. Besides being a nuceince, the vibrations cause nuts and bolts magically come undone.

 

Would it be that much worse from using urethane or even solid mounts?

-Destin

 

The mounts appear to be solid steel (when finished) and where they bolt to the frame could be connected either directly or have a another piece that has some dampening effect.

That other piece usually has metal sandwiching rubber or urethane. This oreo cookie (metal/rubber/metal) is what I'm thinking would be the "bushing". Without the "bushing", it would be a solid motor-mount in my mind. I guess that a piece of urethane that fit over the bolt and in the hole of the solid steel mount would also be a good way to dampen vibrations.

Please help me find the correct terms for these parts.

 

Dude I have mounts for sale.. Stainless Steel, laser cut, polished and tig welded..I have a set listed on ebay.. Check-out auction #7974645813

 

Easy temporary solution. You could easily go buy some 1/4" rubber padding and cut them and stack to fit in between the metal brackets and subframe mounts basically making your own engine mount. Personally I would make it about 1" thick. Anything to eliminate metal to metal contact will lower the vibration.

 

Or use the stock TII mounts........

 

Progress today . Mounts are cut, welded, and installed .

 

I love DIY projects! Keep up the good work.

 

I got the aluminum flywheel, stage 3 clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, needle bearing and clutch alignment tool, delivered to me yesterday. Should be installed by this weekend.

I still have FS an extra clutch set and aluminum flywheel for a TII. The flywheel is suppose to fit all 13b's RX4-RX8 (and 20b's) but need a flex plate. Reduced price if you mention you saw it here on the 20b forum.

 

 

Yay the lt12 got here!

 

 

Know what you are talking about before you post bullshit like that. Microtech is a fraction of the reliability and user support of a Motec system?

Both are Australian ecu's, the majority of rotaries over here use Microtechs.

As for user support, I bought a second hand LTX12. I needed a part of a loom, so emailed microtech at 8pm on a Tuesday night, not expecting an answer for a day or so, less than 1 hour later I had a response with a very reasonable price.

10k for a conversion in the states hey, does that include engine?,ecu etc?

 

I'll agree on the reliability issue. I know 2 different people that run microtechs on there 13b's here in the Phoenix area and both have randomly dumped maps. Sounds like fun to me. Can I sign up?

-Destin

 

You will understand when you grow up.

 

I wonder why they run Microsquishes... cheap alternative since the Aus dollar isn't worth much compared to the US dollar. Correct me if I'm wrong but you don't see much Electromotive and purpose-built ECU's over there?

10K for a conversion? That would be engine, IC, manifold, WG, and some plumbing with a FC including motor mounts to start... states are expensive

 

Where do these idiots come from???
*sigh*


-Ted

 

I like that you also put a 20B in your FC like me, but i dont like that the most of teh conversions are done by having the engine so long forward... Look at my install i did last week. My Engine is way back and theres no more weight ahead the steering then the stock 13B...

Good luck with your projekt!!

 

When your posts are >4,951

 

Why when it's not "necessary"?
We compensate with a 5-way adjustable, custom front sway bar.
Right now, the car handles like a dream (sans turbos).
Your method requires at least a custom driveshaft?
We're still using the stock driveshaft.
What about the shfiter?
Did you cut a new hole?

How much did you spend on the project so far???


-Ted

 

I'll agree with RE-Ted. You got a long way to go young padawan.

 

My friend bought bermuda20b's car (20b srd gen w/ single) a while back and it has a ltx12. He too has problems dropping maps.

I'd only put one in a competitors car.

 

With that logic, why even have a 20b as it too is not necessary.
Nothing wrong with keeping it a mid-engined car. I'm not going to debate the pro or cons of increasing the polar moment as most of us couldn't feel the difference in the cars handling from a swap like this (obviously), but it certainly adds to the quality and uniqueness of his swap because he has the forethought to address and solve issues like this when no one else has.

The stock shifter can be moved forward 4" fairly easily along the transmission. The 20b is 6" longer so if done that way without spending a dime, the shifter is only 2" further back. Big deal.

Custom driveshafts are cheap and the expense/hassle of it is small potatoes when compared to the project as a whole.