You don't have to spend a ton of money if you don't want to. I certainly didn't. I'm about $20 away from firing mine up. I'm also NA for now, which helped.

 

So what's the formula to not spending a ton of money?

NA? Cool. I bet one can't run down to Schucks and get a 20b carb setup.

With an NA do you still need an engine management system?

 

You do if you keep the injection stuff, which I'd recommend since it's very easy to connect to an aftermarket ECU. The injectors are high impedance, there is a fast idle solenoid, the TPS is a normal TPS and not just some on/off or idle switch. Basic things like that certainly make EFI a lot easier on a 20B than fabbing a carb setup.

 

Yes, see the EMS paragraph at the bottom of the 20B FAQ and Links:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=370451

The LT12 is a fraction of the price and a fraction of the difficulty, but also is a fraction of the reliability, quality, user support, and capability of a Motec ECU. Choose your poison.

Just keep in mind that you are looking at a minimum of $10,000 for a 20B conversion. If money isn't a problem, and your car can remain in parts and pieces for a several more months, then I think you should definitely go with the 20B.

That's still my advice because it is still the best bang for the buck, as well as the shortest build time. (This is all assuming that the engine and turbos are in good shape).

 

Dint break a singe exhaust stud removing the nuts.... Infact only one of them was cripmed. Wierd.

 

Compression test...

Nothing; puff; puff...nothing; puff; puff...

One of the rotors seem to be really low. Is there a way to get them to come up in compression without tearing the engine open and rebuilding it?

Will repeated cranking loosen up carbon/junk/etc perhaps bringing up the compression?

 

Side seal... if that is for one rotor alone..
You have two "good" chambers.. therefore a apex isnt the problem.. if it was an apex it would be: nothing nothing Puff. AS the apex seals two chambers.

ATF is a old school long standing trick to try to free things up.
Pour some in the exhaust port.. crank the engine around by hand.. putting Atf into each combustion chamber.. and then move it around.. back and forth to work it in.. and let it SIT. FOr a couple days. Then turn it over by hand and put new atf in there after a couple days. Lit it SIT.
Then crank it over on the starter to blow it out the exhaust port a little easier.. and see how it puffs from there.

BTW.. do this without sparkplugs. The compression check after you cranked it on the starter to blow out the atf is with the plugs..... but dont forget to wing it over on the starter WITHOUT plugs to clear all the atf out.

All else fails.. and you have the means... start it (yes make fire) and it MAY free up the side seal if this cranking doesnt. It usually wil free up if you have a stuck side seal from sitting for a long time.

 

I've heard that ATF is harmfull to the soft seals and it should not be used.

Is MMO a better way to go vs. ATF?

 

never heard of that.
Actually.... yeah Never heard of that ever... and a lot of mechanics at the very highest levels that I know use it to free stuck seals.

 

I'm very glad I used MMO instead of ATF in my 20B. The seals were sluggish because the previous owner ran plugs that were one heat range too cold. MMO freed them up and didn't hurt the soft seals.

 

4 hours later…

 

Here I did this and it will be simple since your engine is already out. It's the last post on this page. Trust me it works if your only problem is carbon freezing of the internal seals.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5&pagenumber=1


Oh and use a scotch pad instead of steel wool if your going to clean the rotor faces.

 

uhh ehh ehh uhh ehh! ooh yeah baby
was it good for you?

 

That's like a $400 set of spark plugs wires made by Ultra!
Doh!


-Ted

 

Your kidding me right?
There was also a HKS drop in filter, newer secondary injectors, and new exhaust gaskets.

 

I knew those wires looked expensive It's pretty obvious that the car was a "kid's sports car" cause its been beat all to hell.

 

The victim arrived today .




Needs a bath.

 

Todays progress....

Ening bay striped of everything un necessary and semi cleaned.

 

Just a handfull of shots from my shop with the on going 3 rotor swap.
*YES I CANT SPELL* lol
Dont have enough room for 2 half cars? Easy! Tip one onto side with roller carts under neath.


Note- its easier striped.

Complete 90 Cosmo, it runs if I feed it gas. Even has a cool auto tilt steering wheel and in dash 5" tv.



The shop as it sits....
2 20b's, a new 13B T, and a few 12a's in the back.



Ever wondered what a cosmo subframe and steering assembly looks like?


The 20b car. I need a dry place to work on it, seeing as its oregon and stripping/simplifying in the wiring harness in the rain would suck.


And the whole reason I cleaned the shop this much...

Blew a seal on my upper filler neck and needed to work on my car under cover.


More tommorow, mabey. I should have the 20b in and mounted.

 

OH SNAP.

Actualy when I bolted the UIM on and got it let down I had to take a step back and take a deep breath, then muttering, Oh ****, its actauly going together.


Hood will not close with the stock dual thermostat water pump and housing, Ill try a TII one and try again. Theres no swap bar installed in the front right now, Im fabing the cosmo one in as a replacment. The tranny is sitting on a jack, meaning the motor is bolted in and being supported by that. We ordered the clutches and flywheels today.

 

Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch;
Segmented Kevlar disc;
Segmented Kevlar friction material;
Precision heat treated single diaphragm;
Re-arched diaphragm for supior disengagement;
Heavy-duty straps;
Very high clamping force;
Steel backing plate;
Spring Hub;
OEM or better releasing bearing;
Pilot bearing;
Alignmnet Tool;

I had to buy more than one to get a discount. If any one wants the other it's for sale ($595 retail) - $516.00 + shipping (no handling costs, just actual shipping costs.)

Also got a Fidanza aluminum flywheel at a super price (had to buy more than one). The second aluminum flywheel is for sale. see FS/WTB thread https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=425023

 

Striped the body harness down to only what I need.

 

Today work, the mounts-

 

Pretty nice mock up.

-Destin

 

Are those going to be solid mounts or with bushings?