Well, as he says, i'm back, but listening is still not quite what i had in mind. I just wanted to show what's been done. I did change the manifold around, and i decided to get rid of the turbo until i can have someone weld me up a correct one. So i made myself a simple little na setup. I know it's not the best looking exhaust header, but it should work just fine. I also got the drive shaft made for it, along with cutting out the hole for the clutch pedal. All i have to do now is figure out a mount for the torque arm, a line for the clutch, and the 3" exhaust pipe to connect to the old stuff i had from the v8. So, drive ability is coming soon...looks is next.

 

Call this the "redneck eye" if you will, but you can bring the exhaust runners forward instead of back, mount the turbo's almost in front of the engine and run them that way, you've practically got enough room to put a house between the engine and rad, so make use of it. Look around the forum for a long runner single turbo setup that some of these guys run and you'll see what I mean.

Maybe I'm just talking out my ***, but if you get creative you have plenty of room to put those turbos in.

 

yea, i know i've got plenty of room, but i don't have the tools, or the money for the right materials to make one right. So i have to wait till i can get the money to have someone put the turbo on correctly. As you said though, i've got all the room in the world to put something in there.

 

And so i get it going. I've got it all together. now i just need to work out the bugs, and all of the cosmetic issues. Then i'll be happy....for now. Hope you like the little video clip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gou4o_Jedo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YN51kmBybxU

 

Damn, that is pretty wild. American muscle with the heart of Japan

 

Haha. I love the irony, and love the sweet rotor sounds from the car.

I especially appreciate that he completed the project even with every one of you being miserable to him. Geez.

I am happy to you went NA until you can prepare a proper turbo manifold. A 'temporary' turbo manifold with all three runners tied to the turbos would have been acceptable, but leaving one rotor dumped direct to the exhaust would not be acceptable. Just run both factory turbos parallel and you can keep on budget for the moment.

I know plenty of people with incomplete 20B projects. What is great for this builder is that his car is RUNNING. Now, he can take a weekend and improve his installation as his budget permits. Don't be haters. I am so surprised he did not respond differently from your attacks. He was calm and stuck to his facts.

Keep at it!

 

x2

Good job!! and I cant wait until you update this thread!

 

Exactly! I keep saying! Just because your doing a 20b swap, doesn't mean you have to go ***** to the walls your 1st time out. Upgrades can always come later.

 

Well i did some more work on the car today. Nothing very major though. Replaced the radiator, added an intake with filter, and i sealed the exhaust so there aren't any major leaks anymore. I'm almost at a point where i'd be comfortable riding down the road in it. i've got a brake vaccume issue to work out first though. Here's a couple of pics of the engine bay as it stands now. Let me know what ya think.

 

Does anyone know what and how much oil additive I need to add to my gas so I don't blow my engine up?

 

Well after having the engine running and getting the car moving I now have another issue. Lots of blue smoke, and an oily residue on the exhaust. Mostly around rotor #2. I know it's not a good sign, so I'm going to ask first. Could it be something other than the seals that would cause this? Like for instance a pressurized crank case, or oil leaking in through an omp port or something to that effect. I'm still learning the ins' and outs of the rotary, so any info would be greatly appreciated. Also, the smoke stared after a few days sitting. I don't really want to have to rebuild the motor just yet. I knew I would have to, but I didn't think it would be this soon.

 

Oil additive? I would assume your asking about premix. 1/2 ounce per gallon is enough for a street car. 1 oz if your racing. Too much can cause blue smoke. Did you open your engine for rebuild or did you install it as is from where you bought it? If you didn't open it, you may have bad oil control o-rings. The rings keep the oil out of the combustion chamber. There's no harm in opening the engine just to replace those if everything else checks out if your on a budget.

 

i put the engine straight in, no modifications (except removing some un needed parts). i am on kind of a budget at the moment, but i want to do my build right. meaning if i'm taking the engine apart it's going to the shop to get ported and polished, a full rebuild kit, and the works before it gets put back together. and when i get the money, a nice turbo, and manifold and intercooler and the works are going to be put in it. it's just i have to do things in stages at the moment, and the stage at the moment is the one of being broke. so right now a rebuild, or even a tear down is not something i'm ready for. would some thicker oil help that problem, or just make it worse?

 

I think there is some kind of oil additive that will swell up rubber seals. Can't remember what it is! You may not be familiar with the engine internals but, if you buy the Bruce Terrentine Rotary rebuild video, it's not that hard to open it up and fix what's needed. The main thing about doing a basic rebuilt is putting everything back where you got it (rotor seals specifically). Hell I can even give you part numbers to Mcmaster Carr to cheaply buy re-usable gaskets and such so you can open the engine anytime you want on a regular basis. I experiment A LOT so let me know! Seriously as much as you have accomplished with the swap and all, there's no reason you can't take if a step further and learn to rebuilt it yourself.

 

OK, so can anyone point me to someone who knows the microtec ecu software, and how to tune them? Because now i'm having issues starting the engine. i think that i'm getting too much fuel to the rotors, because i try to start it, and it spits about once or twice, and then it just kind of goes blub blub blub. i pull out a spark plug, and it's soaked with fuel. I've checked for spark, and all of the spark plugs are getting spark, and obviously there's fuel, so i need to know what kind of computer settings i need to look at to try and fix the issue, or if it's not a computer issue and it's an injector, or some other issue. (yes it's all my fault that it's not running now i know) I changed a couple of things while the engine was running, and now it just doesn't want to start anymore. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

There is a microtec subforum on this site. Don't know how active it is as I'm a PFC guy myself.

 

Your tune likely isn't the problem. The spark plugs can wet foul very easily with low compression engines with weak spark. You could also have sticking seals from the carbon build-up (since you never opened your engine). Unplug your ecu harness, remove the plugs and spin the engine over till all the fuel is expelled. Also try to listen for even exhaust pulses out the holes (make sure you re-install the upper plugs when doing the listening test). If all the pulses are even, install new plugs and fire it up. If they don't sound even, grab a piston engine compression tester and remove the schrader valve to do a compression test.

 

Kilo Racing is your fix. Call Jesus at 407.438.5467 and take the car to him. He's in St. Cloud and has totally resurrected my 3 rotor project. On the road now and driving great. He's a Microtech expert.

 

o/ subscribed, just in case this one lights back up!

 

so, for those who would like to know. I got the car running again. It took me a while to figure out, but it was the spark plugs. They were all fouled out. So after sitting for a week or so, I disconnected the fuel pump, and sprayed a little starting fluid down the intake, and she started right up. So I reconnected the fuel pump, and all is well. I actually got to drive it around the block last weekend. The only thing I need to do now before I start tuning it is to find, or drill a brake vacuum port. Any suggestions? The port is also about a half inch in diameter. That's my biggest issue, finding a port big enough, or a good spot to put one. The finishing touches on the wiring should be done this weekend or so. I just need to figure out my fogg lights, and my parking lights. Then it's off to title and register the thing :-D

 

Most just drill and tap a larger hole on the firewall side of the LIM where the other smaller nipples are for a brake booster port.

 

You wouldn't happen to have a picture of that would you?

 

Not the best pic but you get the idea! Here they used a simple brass angled barbed fitting that you would get from a hardware store. Drill and tap it correctly with some teflon tape and it will work.

 

Ooops here ya go!

 

Showoff!