20B Advice
04-02-12, 04:33 PM
#1
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20B Advice
Newb here, I'm currently looking at purchasing a 94 FD 20B, I'm driving 5 hours to check it out and am looking for some advice regarding what to look for. I have been reading over these forums for a few weeks now and have learned alot but still need the advice. The swap was completed at A-Spec and in the pictures it looks solid. I read everything on this site http://robrobinette.com/buyaused.htm and am wondering if any of it translates to buying a 20B FD. Thanks everyone
Mod List:
Used 20B
Full rebuild, all new parts including Port, 6 dowells for strength, upgraded Apex seals ETC.
New subframe
Custom Koyo Radiator set up
Complete Fuel system 850CC/1600CC sec.
Microtech LT-12S w/ X6 & wiring
Stage 3 clutch with ACT Flywheel
Custom A-Spec 20b intercooler kit
A-Spec GT42R twin ball bearing Turbo Kit with Tial wastegate and BOV
Ceramic Coating
Optima Yellow Top battery
Custom dyno tune (500HP @ 10PSI)
Six MSD Coils
Custom Thermostat Housing
Defi Gauges
Dual Oil cooler Kit
Tein Flex Coilovers
New OZ Racing wheels, 17X8 all around
New Bridgestone Potenza RE050 Tires 245-40-17
Suspension techniques Sway bars
Blitz Sequential Boost Controller i - D
JDM Tail lights
The FD is a 1 owner with every single service record, original window sticker and everything you would expect out of a proud owner. The seller claims it was recently "Refreshed" with
1) Oil control Rings
2) Oil control ring O-rings
3) Pineapple heavy duty water seal kit
4) Oil control ring springs
5) Side seals
6) side seal springs
7) Short & Long Apex seal springs
Mod List:
Used 20B
Full rebuild, all new parts including Port, 6 dowells for strength, upgraded Apex seals ETC.
New subframe
Custom Koyo Radiator set up
Complete Fuel system 850CC/1600CC sec.
Microtech LT-12S w/ X6 & wiring
Stage 3 clutch with ACT Flywheel
Custom A-Spec 20b intercooler kit
A-Spec GT42R twin ball bearing Turbo Kit with Tial wastegate and BOV
Ceramic Coating
Optima Yellow Top battery
Custom dyno tune (500HP @ 10PSI)
Six MSD Coils
Custom Thermostat Housing
Defi Gauges
Dual Oil cooler Kit
Tein Flex Coilovers
New OZ Racing wheels, 17X8 all around
New Bridgestone Potenza RE050 Tires 245-40-17
Suspension techniques Sway bars
Blitz Sequential Boost Controller i - D
JDM Tail lights
The FD is a 1 owner with every single service record, original window sticker and everything you would expect out of a proud owner. The seller claims it was recently "Refreshed" with
1) Oil control Rings
2) Oil control ring O-rings
3) Pineapple heavy duty water seal kit
4) Oil control ring springs
5) Side seals
6) side seal springs
7) Short & Long Apex seal springs
Last edited by Mjones1128; 04-02-12 at 04:53 PM. Reason: provide more information
04-02-12, 06:03 PM
#2
Do they have receipts for the engine work that was recently done? That would probably be my main concern, other than it having a clean title, or not.
Like any used car you should absolutely get a car fax report. It's cheap comparatively speaking to what it would cost you in the long run. Depending on what year it is, you're looking at about a 20year old car. Not to much in the link you provided pertains, as you no longer have the stock motor, or stock twin turbos. (good things!) Have the suspension bushings been replaced? If not, they will need to be. $500 for bushing + time/labor (~$100/hr) if you don't have the tools to do it yourself.
I would ask the owner what "upgraded apex seals" were used. All apex seals that are offered have different characteristics. Some shatter on detonation, some bend but leave excessive wear on the rotor housing. You'll want to know what you're getting yourself into if something blows.
I would also ask what they mean by "new subframe." Most 20b's use an aftermarket subframe to mount into the FD chassis, and usually don't keep the stock subframe. 20b's have issues with something called "bump-steer" if not done properly. This is due to the elevation change of your steering rack when using an aftermarket subframe. I would ask what they did to fix the bump steer issue.
What kind of fuel are they using? Pump gas? E85? Cooling mods are a big deal when it comes to 20b's, and rotaries in general. Get more info on this.
With all that said. If A-Spec really did all the work, I wouldn't worry to much. They are a great business, and have been on the forums for years.
Like any used car you should absolutely get a car fax report. It's cheap comparatively speaking to what it would cost you in the long run. Depending on what year it is, you're looking at about a 20year old car. Not to much in the link you provided pertains, as you no longer have the stock motor, or stock twin turbos. (good things!) Have the suspension bushings been replaced? If not, they will need to be. $500 for bushing + time/labor (~$100/hr) if you don't have the tools to do it yourself.
I would ask the owner what "upgraded apex seals" were used. All apex seals that are offered have different characteristics. Some shatter on detonation, some bend but leave excessive wear on the rotor housing. You'll want to know what you're getting yourself into if something blows.
I would also ask what they mean by "new subframe." Most 20b's use an aftermarket subframe to mount into the FD chassis, and usually don't keep the stock subframe. 20b's have issues with something called "bump-steer" if not done properly. This is due to the elevation change of your steering rack when using an aftermarket subframe. I would ask what they did to fix the bump steer issue.
What kind of fuel are they using? Pump gas? E85? Cooling mods are a big deal when it comes to 20b's, and rotaries in general. Get more info on this.
With all that said. If A-Spec really did all the work, I wouldn't worry to much. They are a great business, and have been on the forums for years.
04-02-12, 06:12 PM
#3
have someone impartial and local to the seller do a compression test for you...
everything may look good on paper and pics but when it comes down to it.. a huge part of the sale is the health of the drivetrain..
dont make the mistake of trusting someone to be honest and straight up with you.. ive made that on a recent 20B purchase from a member on this board and got burned..
everything may look good on paper and pics but when it comes down to it.. a huge part of the sale is the health of the drivetrain..
dont make the mistake of trusting someone to be honest and straight up with you.. ive made that on a recent 20B purchase from a member on this board and got burned..
04-02-12, 06:21 PM
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Do they have receipts for the engine work that was recently done? That would probably be my main concern, other than it having a clean title, or not.
Like any used car you should absolutely get a car fax report. It's cheap comparatively speaking to what it would cost you in the long run. Depending on what year it is, you're looking at about a 20year old car. Not to much in the link you provided pertains, as you no longer have the stock motor, or stock twin turbos. (good things!) Have the suspension bushings been replaced? If not, they will need to be. $500 for bushing + time/labor (~$100/hr) if you don't have the tools to do it yourself.
I would ask the owner what "upgraded apex seals" were used. All apex seals that are offered have different characteristics. Some shatter on detonation, some bend but leave excessive wear on the rotor housing. You'll want to know what you're getting yourself into if something blows.
I would also ask what they mean by "new subframe." Most 20b's use an aftermarket subframe to mount into the FD chassis, and usually don't keep the stock subframe. 20b's have issues with something called "bump-steer" if not done properly. This is due to the elevation change of your steering rack when using an aftermarket subframe. I would ask what they did to fix the bump steer issue.
What kind of fuel are they using? Pump gas? E85? Cooling mods are a big deal when it comes to 20b's, and rotaries in general. Get more info on this.
With all that said. If A-Spec really did all the work, I wouldn't worry to much. They are a great business, and have been on the forums for years.
Like any used car you should absolutely get a car fax report. It's cheap comparatively speaking to what it would cost you in the long run. Depending on what year it is, you're looking at about a 20year old car. Not to much in the link you provided pertains, as you no longer have the stock motor, or stock twin turbos. (good things!) Have the suspension bushings been replaced? If not, they will need to be. $500 for bushing + time/labor (~$100/hr) if you don't have the tools to do it yourself.
I would ask the owner what "upgraded apex seals" were used. All apex seals that are offered have different characteristics. Some shatter on detonation, some bend but leave excessive wear on the rotor housing. You'll want to know what you're getting yourself into if something blows.
I would also ask what they mean by "new subframe." Most 20b's use an aftermarket subframe to mount into the FD chassis, and usually don't keep the stock subframe. 20b's have issues with something called "bump-steer" if not done properly. This is due to the elevation change of your steering rack when using an aftermarket subframe. I would ask what they did to fix the bump steer issue.
What kind of fuel are they using? Pump gas? E85? Cooling mods are a big deal when it comes to 20b's, and rotaries in general. Get more info on this.
With all that said. If A-Spec really did all the work, I wouldn't worry to much. They are a great business, and have been on the forums for years.
The Original ownder has the service records with writing all over them from each service, he also stated "The pillowballs have been changed as with many bushings"
04-02-12, 06:25 PM
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have someone impartial and local to the seller do a compression test for you...
everything may look good on paper and pics but when it comes down to it.. a huge part of the sale is the health of the drivetrain..
dont make the mistake of trusting someone to be honest and straight up with you.. ive made that on a recent 20B purchase from a member on this board and got burned..
everything may look good on paper and pics but when it comes down to it.. a huge part of the sale is the health of the drivetrain..
dont make the mistake of trusting someone to be honest and straight up with you.. ive made that on a recent 20B purchase from a member on this board and got burned..
04-02-12, 06:32 PM
#6
Also, from the looks of it, you're talking about this car?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-vehicles-107/1994-chaste-white-black-fd-20b-3-rotor-gt42-950214/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-rx-7-1993-2002-vehicles-107/1994-chaste-white-black-fd-20b-3-rotor-gt42-950214/
04-02-12, 06:39 PM
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Also, from the looks of it, you're talking about this car?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=950214
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=950214
Last edited by Mjones1128; 04-02-12 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Clarification
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04-02-12, 06:49 PM
#8
i have seen the car you are talking about on ebay, the picture was under a bridge. my two cents, you mentioned that he rebuilt the engine himself? if so make sure that he is a experienced rotary mechanic because the most important part of a rotary engine is the built and the tuning. hope this helps.
Nope, I red somewhere in one of the new forums to not post links so I wont, but the one I'm lookin at is in Florida, Red and was on ebay, listing was buy it now and ended about a week ago without sale. I have been in contact with the seller since the day he posted it. I just got enough posts to start looking in the classified. Too bad that ones sold already!!
04-02-12, 07:26 PM
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i have seen the car you are talking about on ebay, the picture was under a bridge. my two cents, you mentioned that he rebuilt the engine himself? if so make sure that he is a experienced rotary mechanic because the most important part of a rotary engine is the built and the tuning. hope this helps.
04-03-12, 01:49 AM
#10
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There was one that I looked at in South Florida last year. When I checked it out, it looked like the guy had a cracked corner seal as the engine had a slight "flutter" which did not clear up with a rise in the RPM. Anyway I broke the bad news to him. He wanted a lot of money.
I brought my friend over that is a known rotary mechanic there to double check and verify, just so the owner was sure that I was not making things up and trying to bullshit him for his ride. He claims to have bought the car to sell it back. The guy had a used car dealership and had a bunch of NSX's.. Dunno if its the same guy or not, but if it him, he is no rotary mechanic!
I brought my friend over that is a known rotary mechanic there to double check and verify, just so the owner was sure that I was not making things up and trying to bullshit him for his ride. He claims to have bought the car to sell it back. The guy had a used car dealership and had a bunch of NSX's.. Dunno if its the same guy or not, but if it him, he is no rotary mechanic!
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