Auto Illusions

I did just that.
I bought the rb flange and had is copied. Payed for the computer time now i need to decide how many flanges to make.

If you are interested, let me know.....

thick stainless is not cheap.....

I am not sure yet but i might make 2 and keep a spare...

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I make the flanges out of thick mild steel SS want to move around way too much for base flange.

Auto Illusions

ok, the racing beat flange is junk. It is flame cut and not accurate at all.....
the holes for the exhaust ports are not even round..... the mounting holes look like they were chewed out....

I inserted soft plugs into the flange to block off the holes and am now going to use the flange as a block off plate to keep debris out until the motor is installed and header installed.

The guy making me the flange only used the rb flange as a base drawing... he measured off a built motor to get all the dimensions to alter the drawing and make it accurate...

It should be made from 7/16" or 1/2" SS..

Zero R, are you saying that the stainless expands, i wouldn't think it would get hot enough!

787BwannaB

That engine, simply put, will suck. It will have no power, especially after you blow an apex seal from too much thermal stress on the motor. about 3 years ago, i built a 4 rotor with two t-51 kai turbos putting out about 1800hp. It ran on alcohol. I blew the engine from a miscalculation of thermal stress, which turned out to be a simple addition problem in an easy line of multivariate calculus equations. Take it from THE expert, do some more research on the project because I said so.

Auto Illusions

I am not sure were that came from but thanks for the advice, however i will take my chances as the project is already to far along.

1000HP / 3 rotor= 333HP per rotor
1800HP / 4 rotor = 450HP per rotor

I would say i am planning a little safer build with less heat and stress on the parts but if it does suck, you can say i told you so!

Max7

From the 1st Gen forum - It seems 787BwannaB is an *** in most posts

slidingsky

why the hell would you run that 4 rotor carbed. Ive learned the wonders of a programable ems. I think unless your limited by class to carbs, a EFI would be a must.
Sorry its hard to belive you about your 4 rotor anyways. Could you show a bunch of pics of the engine in the car. There are people on here claiming things they either dont own or havent completed. Just asking though.
sky

slidingsky

wow I just searched your other post 787 and damn forget I asked. I dont care if you can back it or not. Guys like you have problems. Sounds like either youve forgotten your roots, as a novice mechanic, or your just a punk. Even if you can build cars way better than I ever will, you have no humility or respect. Either way forget it. not interested.
sky

RETed

I'd like to see these equations?


-Ted

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

Reply It does expand some and causes the face to not seal, it will also move around a ton while welding I use .625 .75 mild steel no problems as of yet just a touch more weight though.If your going to use stainless make sure you use a thick enough plate to allow for a good amount of facing.

Auto Illusions

i expect warping and pulling while welding, you just have to be patient and weld a little at a time and let cool !

I thought you ment a stainless flange would expand and contract while running after built!

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

It will move around when on the car as well, just use mild for the base flange, I've made tons of manifolds and it works best, if you insist on stainless then go larger than .5"

paximus

iTrader: (1)

oh man, that guy (787bwannab) is from utah.....
i know we have some idiots, but damn!!!

sorry, no helpful info in my post, maybe i'll add the fact that sean will be doing my turbo and manifold work when i get this thing in, even if he doesn't want to
hah, its not a useless post.

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I'm waiting quitely over here. Did you get your subframe yet I make them in chromoly

noel gee

what type of subframe?

Auto Illusions

Ok, for the exhaust header flange...............
I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2 stainless?
also in either 304 or 321?

Any suggestions?

Making header from 321 but i was wondering since 321 is stronger, could i make the flange from 3/8" and is be as strong as 1/2" mild steel or 304 stainless?

I am going to get 2 or 3 of which ever i pick so if any one is in need of a stainless exhaust flange, i will have a couple of spares!

TurboIIGuy

All I can say is Damn.....No attention to detail was left out.....It looks and sounds great. Much respect to a man who decides what he wants his 7 to be and does it.

RETed

321 is always better than 304.
321 is naturally more expensive.
Thicker is always better.
I'd go minimum 1/2", but if you can go thicker, go for it.


-Ted

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

20B FD that is what we are speaking of correct?

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

.5" minimum .625" is nice. 321 is the better choice but 304 works just fine. you can save weight over 304 by using thinner wall tubing if you wanted, I say build the mani as strong as you can it is one of the hardest worked parts on the car. save weight elsewhere.

paximus

iTrader: (1)

sean-
tried to pm you again, but says you have it blocked. i have questions when you have a minute.

Auto Illusions

I should be picking up the motor on monday! After about a 3 month plus wait!

Pictures will be posted if anyone is interested.

GOTBANNED?

i think we all are

88IntegraLS

What did you do with the wheels that were on the CYM car when you first got it? I love them, they look so old, in a good way.

Drag'nGT

Build it as stong as possible. That way you have the least amount of problems.

Just curious, what other material besides SS could be used for the manifolds?? I've only heard of SS being used for these aplications.... although I think I have seen pure steel used.