1000 HP 20B Street Car Project
#101
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
K2RD.com had some, but I think each exhaust port had it's own flange i.e. three of them. I think they have dropped off the face of the earth though. Buy the racing beat mild steel flange and have a ss one made from that. Actually have two of them made...I'll take the second.
I bought the rb flange and had is copied. Payed for the computer time now i need to decide how many flanges to make.
If you are interested, let me know.....
thick stainless is not cheap.....
I am not sure yet but i might make 2 and keep a spare...
#103
ok, the racing beat flange is junk. It is flame cut and not accurate at all.....
the holes for the exhaust ports are not even round..... the mounting holes look like they were chewed out....
I inserted soft plugs into the flange to block off the holes and am now going to use the flange as a block off plate to keep debris out until the motor is installed and header installed.
The guy making me the flange only used the rb flange as a base drawing... he measured off a built motor to get all the dimensions to alter the drawing and make it accurate...
It should be made from 7/16" or 1/2" SS..
Zero R, are you saying that the stainless expands, i wouldn't think it would get hot enough!
the holes for the exhaust ports are not even round..... the mounting holes look like they were chewed out....
I inserted soft plugs into the flange to block off the holes and am now going to use the flange as a block off plate to keep debris out until the motor is installed and header installed.
The guy making me the flange only used the rb flange as a base drawing... he measured off a built motor to get all the dimensions to alter the drawing and make it accurate...
It should be made from 7/16" or 1/2" SS..
Zero R, are you saying that the stainless expands, i wouldn't think it would get hot enough!
#104
That engine, simply put, will suck. It will have no power, especially after you blow an apex seal from too much thermal stress on the motor. about 3 years ago, i built a 4 rotor with two t-51 kai turbos putting out about 1800hp. It ran on alcohol. I blew the engine from a miscalculation of thermal stress, which turned out to be a simple addition problem in an easy line of multivariate calculus equations. Take it from THE expert, do some more research on the project because I said so.
#105
I am not sure were that came from but thanks for the advice, however i will take my chances as the project is already to far along.
1000HP / 3 rotor= 333HP per rotor
1800HP / 4 rotor = 450HP per rotor
I would say i am planning a little safer build with less heat and stress on the parts but if it does suck, you can say i told you so!
1000HP / 3 rotor= 333HP per rotor
1800HP / 4 rotor = 450HP per rotor
I would say i am planning a little safer build with less heat and stress on the parts but if it does suck, you can say i told you so!
Last edited by Auto Illusions; 08-06-04 at 03:00 AM.
#106
From the 1st Gen forum - It seems 787BwannaB is an *** in most posts
Originally Posted by 787BwannaB
You seem to know what your talking about, but the setup your running is quite crappy by honest opinion. The one thing that is nice is the weber setup, which isnt very hard to tune for a expert. looking back on your older posts, I'd say your port style isnt going to work very well for turbo use, quite possibly not at all. I hope your expectations for this car are low, as everything above that wouldnt make much sense at all. But good luck with it, slow ***!!!!!
Did I mention this will be slow? Oh yeah I did. ALso you better stock the rear plates in bulk, because all will break with your current underthought setup.
Did I mention this will be slow? Oh yeah I did. ALso you better stock the rear plates in bulk, because all will break with your current underthought setup.
#107
why the hell would you run that 4 rotor carbed. Ive learned the wonders of a programable ems. I think unless your limited by class to carbs, a EFI would be a must.
Sorry its hard to belive you about your 4 rotor anyways. Could you show a bunch of pics of the engine in the car. There are people on here claiming things they either dont own or havent completed. Just asking though.
sky
Sorry its hard to belive you about your 4 rotor anyways. Could you show a bunch of pics of the engine in the car. There are people on here claiming things they either dont own or havent completed. Just asking though.
sky
#108
wow I just searched your other post 787 and damn forget I asked. I dont care if you can back it or not. Guys like you have problems. Sounds like either youve forgotten your roots, as a novice mechanic, or your just a punk. Even if you can build cars way better than I ever will, you have no humility or respect. Either way forget it. not interested.
sky
sky
#109
Originally Posted by 787BwannaB
I blew the engine from a miscalculation of thermal stress, which turned out to be a simple addition problem in an easy line of multivariate calculus equations.
-Ted
#110
Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
Zero R, are you saying that the stainless expands, i wouldn't think it would get hot enough!
#111
i expect warping and pulling while welding, you just have to be patient and weld a little at a time and let cool !
I thought you ment a stainless flange would expand and contract while running after built!
I thought you ment a stainless flange would expand and contract while running after built!
#112
It will move around when on the car as well, just use mild for the base flange, I've made tons of manifolds and it works best, if you insist on stainless then go larger than .5"
#113
oh man, that guy (787bwannab) is from utah.....
i know we have some idiots, but damn!!!
sorry, no helpful info in my post, maybe i'll add the fact that sean will be doing my turbo and manifold work when i get this thing in, even if he doesn't want to
hah, its not a useless post.
i know we have some idiots, but damn!!!
sorry, no helpful info in my post, maybe i'll add the fact that sean will be doing my turbo and manifold work when i get this thing in, even if he doesn't want to
hah, its not a useless post.
#116
Ok, for the exhaust header flange...............
I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2 stainless?
also in either 304 or 321?
Any suggestions?
Making header from 321 but i was wondering since 321 is stronger, could i make the flange from 3/8" and is be as strong as 1/2" mild steel or 304 stainless?
I am going to get 2 or 3 of which ever i pick so if any one is in need of a stainless exhaust flange, i will have a couple of spares!
I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2 stainless?
also in either 304 or 321?
Any suggestions?
Making header from 321 but i was wondering since 321 is stronger, could i make the flange from 3/8" and is be as strong as 1/2" mild steel or 304 stainless?
I am going to get 2 or 3 of which ever i pick so if any one is in need of a stainless exhaust flange, i will have a couple of spares!
#120
Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
Ok, for the exhaust header flange...............
I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2 stainless?
also in either 304 or 321?
Any suggestions?
Making header from 321 but i was wondering since 321 is stronger, could i make the flange from 3/8" and is be as strong as 1/2" mild steel or 304 stainless?
I am going to get 2 or 3 of which ever i pick so if any one is in need of a stainless exhaust flange, i will have a couple of spares!
I have a choice of 3/8 or 1/2 stainless?
also in either 304 or 321?
Any suggestions?
Making header from 321 but i was wondering since 321 is stronger, could i make the flange from 3/8" and is be as strong as 1/2" mild steel or 304 stainless?
I am going to get 2 or 3 of which ever i pick so if any one is in need of a stainless exhaust flange, i will have a couple of spares!
#125
Originally Posted by Zero R
.5" minimum .625" is nice. 321 is the better choice but 304 works just fine. you can save weight over 304 by using thinner wall tubing if you wanted, I say build the mani as strong as you can it is one of the hardest worked parts on the car. save weight elsewhere.
Just curious, what other material besides SS could be used for the manifolds?? I've only heard of SS being used for these aplications.... although I think I have seen pure steel used.