First off....damn nice work.
As for the drivetrain, you will probably need to go with the ford rear. Even if you baby it out of the whole once you go WOT you will still shred some if not all components you have listed. I know of guys breaking similar setups and they are making a lot less power than you are hoping to make.

 

what kinda power are these guys making?
Im running an NA 20b. Its a drift car, so traction is minimal. Im still planning to make over 600 to the ground. I cant really find a decient trans replacement, plus I have a OS 3 plate. I dont want to waste that thing. A torsen rear, much better than viscous and stock clutches, but Im going to end up finding out what that thing is really made of when the car makes power. Im mostly worried about the trans and my pumpkin. I need independent rear and drag tires are never going to touch the car.
My soultion is to run the stock trans 90Tii and the torsen and find out if they will put down the power streetably< no drag>. If not I think the torsen will fail first.
What kinda of power are most of your friends breaking driveline parts at? Are they dragging?
Thanks
sky

 

Yeah, majority of them are drag cars, but they can be driven on the street. The most recent one was my friends FC with a FD engine, the last time car was at the track he broke both axles (they looked as smooth as a hot knife through butter). And that was when he was only making 5XXrwhp. Now hes up to 6xx and now hes using i think the same setup crispeed had on his car. So we'll see if that holds up.

 

Thats where i got all my stainless from. Any ways, i am still considering the inconnel as many have suggested it would simply be over kill and unnecesary!

I may just build another header from 321 ss.

Burns wants over $1200 for enough inconnel to build one header!

 

Any one have a suggestion for a diff and gear set if i mount the ford 8.8 independent rear setup?
Diff must not click and clunk, at least not to bad! Sounds like something is broken all the time!

Also, would you suggest the axles would hold up that the driveshaft shop is building for the setup that they are making for the swap in the group buy section?

 

I was going to suggest the rear in the group buy. Being as you want to keep it independent, you might even have better luck in finding a way to beef up those components for your setup, as im sure ford parts should not be that hard to find.....

 

If you go with a KAAZ diff, it will klunk out of the box. The rings are configured male/female/male/female etc. orientation, which is what causes that to occur. You can move the rings around in a different configuration which will limit 80% of the klunk you get.

With regards to axles, I have RP's chromoly set on my car.

But, you need to think reality here. You are mostly building a show car. Do you need the diff / axles? If you go to the track (1/4mile) with an 800+ rwhp car (running @ anything over than 300rwhp with a 20b due to torque), you will break stock components. But at what point will you start breaking these upgraded ones too?

I believe the RP Axles / Diff setup would be good for 600 max, without too many runs. The torque differences will end its life much quicker. Thats why you see others (serious about 1/4 mile) go with a complete rear end swap.

Decide your goal before throwing the money away.

 

Well, it is to late. Allready wasted the money!

I have had for some time now a kazz diff with the special setup to eliminate the clunk and a set of 300m chromoly axles and heat treated cv's ready to go in.

With all that invested i am now looking to sell the parts and go with the ford 8.8 independent setup.

 

Depending on how much boost you run that fuel pump might not be enough for 1000hp.....well, I guess it depends if your talking at the flywheel or at the wheels. If your talking at the wheels then it look real borderline just depending on how much boost you need to run.

What injectors are you going to be running?

STEPHEN

 

I just wanted to say VERY nice work and that I can't wait for us all to see the end result. How long do you think it would be?

 

Thank you for the complement....

I was shooting for the end of the summer but since i still havent gotten back my motor and custom intake combined with the fact that i changed the whole turbo setup, decided to run an aftermarket transmissions and possibly change the rear end setup. I will almost need to start from scratch..........I am moving the expected date of completion to early spring 2005

 

1000hp would be at the crank which would have to be around 900 or so rwhp.

I am planning to run around 28psi with VP but for the most part, the car will run in street trim with pump gas and around 10-14 psi.

I originally had 3-850cc and 3-1700cc injectors but will be changing the secondaries to 6-850cc or larger running one in each port of the custom intake.

 

i must say im envious good work bro i cant wait to see it wen its done keep up the good work jon

 

HI about the diff ynot the jaguar 8.75 " independent rear

 

HI again why do you need the floating rear if you are serious they just dont plant well. Igot one

 

I would really like to keep independent. It is not a drag car rather a street/show car.

Not to mention the custom made 12.9" rear brembo brake kit custom made to fit the mazda suspension.

 

Any other updates??? What's your expected road date? Or is there one yet?

Craig

 

How could I have missed this thread? Farkin' awesome. Are you going to race the Acosta Motorsports 900 hp 20B RX-8?

 

The date has been kicked back a bit due to change of plans as it always happens.

changing trans to tremec and rear diff to ford 8.8 as well as the larger turbo setup meaning whole new header and exhast.......

For sure will be ready by spring 05'

all winter to work on it...........

 

race, i doubt it but i would like to see real dyno numbers from both once completed...

 

I have a dyno of it. Would you like to see that? I can post it when I get home.

 

definitely

 

you mean the dyno of your car or of marcos rx-8?

I am picking up my motor monday or tuesday........will post pics.....

expect to see totally custom upper and lower sheet metal intake with 9 fuel injectors, fully polished front cover and rotor housingswith black painted centersand custom built full polished aluminum oil pan.

engine has external oil modifications, 3rd gen rotors and housings, extreme race port, balanced, pinned, etc...........

Turbo looks like about 3 more weeks for build since innovative does not useally coat turbine housings but what the heck, whats the rush!

 

any one know of a source for a stainless exhast flange for the 20B?

racing beat as far as i can tell sells the most flanges but nothing available in stainless....
why someone wouldn't spend the extra 20 on a stainless flange is beyond me but i cant find one anywhere...... ???custom???

 

K2RD.com had some, but I think each exhaust port had it's own flange i.e. three of them. I think they have dropped off the face of the earth though. Buy the racing beat mild steel flange and have a ss one made from that. Actually have two of them made...I'll take the second.