^_^
#1
^_^
3 second of start-up...
Haltech E6K controlled, but there is no intake prior to the TB and NO exhaust. It would be a waste of time trying to get a stable idle, so that explains the oscillation.
WARNING, turn down the volume!
http://fc3spro.com/PICS/SKY20B/init20b.mpg
File size is 650K.
-Ted
Haltech E6K controlled, but there is no intake prior to the TB and NO exhaust. It would be a waste of time trying to get a stable idle, so that explains the oscillation.
WARNING, turn down the volume!
http://fc3spro.com/PICS/SKY20B/init20b.mpg
File size is 650K.
-Ted
#5
*warning, I'm learning*
Just curious, I see that the turbos are missing and you said that the intake is missing but why is it dieing? It's apparently getting fuel....
I know "how" a rotary works but I don't know what makes it die.
Just curious, I see that the turbos are missing and you said that the intake is missing but why is it dieing? It's apparently getting fuel....
I know "how" a rotary works but I don't know what makes it die.
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#8
Originally posted by Drag'nGT
*warning, I'm learning*
Just curious, I see that the turbos are missing and you said that the intake is missing but why is it dieing? It's apparently getting fuel....
*warning, I'm learning*
Just curious, I see that the turbos are missing and you said that the intake is missing but why is it dieing? It's apparently getting fuel....
I only messed with the cranking primer to get the engine to crank and start.
If I mess with the Haltech (fuel) maps, it would've been a lot more stable, but we need to get the intake and exhaust on first, else I would have to retune everything anyways due to the slight restrictions.
It's going to be run NA for now.
The header was completed last night, and we're going to get at least the first muffler (pre-silencer) on it by tonight.
If the job goes well and quick, I may be able to get video (and audio) of the engine running retuned with intake and partial exhaust on.
It's HELLA loud right now!
-Ted
#9
Originally posted by j9fd3s
that was fast! make a longer video! or shoot make the car really loud, 20b's sound good uncorked
that was fast! make a longer video! or shoot make the car really loud, 20b's sound good uncorked
Maybe over the weekend, we can get some good long shots, but we need to be considerate right now.
One of the neighbors wants to shoot all of us right now.
We've cranked it up about half a dozen times now.
-Ted
#13
Sorry, we all took a rest when we knew we couldn't make the track event on Saturday. We were busting our asses to make it this event on 04/10, but it was just a little too late - we just ran out of time. We've got the maps tuned up to 4kRPM right now and not even close to 0 manifold (i.e. WOT). The maps are really rich, and this is the first time I'm tuning the Haltech under 1-bar MAP sensor trying to adjust all 32 bars all the time! We're going to drop down to a 2-bar MAP sensor so the resolution will drop, but this should make tuning go a lot faster.
We got a Borla (XS Pro?) muffler in the rear that suppressed the exhaust note a LOT. The exhaust note is a lot lower, and it's starting to sound a lot more menacing. I'll get the video tomorrow night when we attempt to work on it again. Hopefully, we can get the engine tuned to rev all the way up to 7kRPM!
Good news, the engine runs VERY cool in the current configuration. I was a little worried about the coolant temps, as the previous vehicle this same motor was running in ran a very hot 200F which we could not get down after full warm-up. We're basically running the big K2RD radiator up front, and it's got a pair of stock FC oil coolers running in parallel up front. Oil temps are down in the 150F to 160 range (Haltech controlled Spal 16" electric fan), and the coolant temps are cycling in the 160F to 180F range - we are not running any thermostat. The stock bypass is welded over, but the stock thermostat flange is installed - the core of the thermostat is removed. We've got approximately 2 hours of driving time in it, and the torque is very noticable - the owner even noticed it.
-Ted
We got a Borla (XS Pro?) muffler in the rear that suppressed the exhaust note a LOT. The exhaust note is a lot lower, and it's starting to sound a lot more menacing. I'll get the video tomorrow night when we attempt to work on it again. Hopefully, we can get the engine tuned to rev all the way up to 7kRPM!
Good news, the engine runs VERY cool in the current configuration. I was a little worried about the coolant temps, as the previous vehicle this same motor was running in ran a very hot 200F which we could not get down after full warm-up. We're basically running the big K2RD radiator up front, and it's got a pair of stock FC oil coolers running in parallel up front. Oil temps are down in the 150F to 160 range (Haltech controlled Spal 16" electric fan), and the coolant temps are cycling in the 160F to 180F range - we are not running any thermostat. The stock bypass is welded over, but the stock thermostat flange is installed - the core of the thermostat is removed. We've got approximately 2 hours of driving time in it, and the torque is very noticable - the owner even noticed it.
-Ted
#14
Figure I'd dump it in here too...
Updated pics...
Sorry, no movie of the new exhaust!
We had a problem with the engine rev-limiting at 4500RPM, and it got traced back to the MSD DIS-4 box - damn thing was set wrong. It'll rev up to 7kRPM no problem now.
We normally work on the car late at night, so we can't go revving it real late!
The first chance we get to work on it at a decent hour, I'll get the mpeg of the exhaust.
Tuning has been weird. EGT's are pretty damn cold (1000F), and we're running up to 25-degrees total advance now with no change in EGT's - it was running 20-degrees prior. I'll try bump up the ignition timing a little more to see what it does. I know we've hit the lean fuel side, cause power drop is significant. The car is still disappointing slow - we expected a lot more power. It'll be lucky to break 200hp at this point. We really need to get the car on a dyno...
-Ted
Updated pics...
Sorry, no movie of the new exhaust!
We had a problem with the engine rev-limiting at 4500RPM, and it got traced back to the MSD DIS-4 box - damn thing was set wrong. It'll rev up to 7kRPM no problem now.
We normally work on the car late at night, so we can't go revving it real late!
The first chance we get to work on it at a decent hour, I'll get the mpeg of the exhaust.
Tuning has been weird. EGT's are pretty damn cold (1000F), and we're running up to 25-degrees total advance now with no change in EGT's - it was running 20-degrees prior. I'll try bump up the ignition timing a little more to see what it does. I know we've hit the lean fuel side, cause power drop is significant. The car is still disappointing slow - we expected a lot more power. It'll be lucky to break 200hp at this point. We really need to get the car on a dyno...
-Ted
#17
I'm going to start mine at 20BTDC and go from there. I just hope I calculated the move from 5ATDC to 0BTDC from the 20B pulley to the FC pulley. In other words, I think it's at 0BTDC.
The FC pulley's leading mark is 5ATDC, as is the 20B's pulley, right? They don't quite match up when directly compared, so my 0 degree mark is something like 8 degrees away from the stock FC leading mark. Or maybe it was exactly 10 degrees? I forgot already.
The FC pulley's leading mark is 5ATDC, as is the 20B's pulley, right? They don't quite match up when directly compared, so my 0 degree mark is something like 8 degrees away from the stock FC leading mark. Or maybe it was exactly 10 degrees? I forgot already.
#18
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by Jeff20B
I'm going to start mine at 20BTDC and go from there. I just hope I calculated the move from 5ATDC to 0BTDC from the 20B pulley to the FC pulley. In other words, I think it's at 0BTDC.
The FC pulley's leading mark is 5ATDC, as is the 20B's pulley, right? They don't quite match up when directly compared, so my 0 degree mark is something like 8 degrees away from the stock FC leading mark. Or maybe it was exactly 10 degrees? I forgot already.
I'm going to start mine at 20BTDC and go from there. I just hope I calculated the move from 5ATDC to 0BTDC from the 20B pulley to the FC pulley. In other words, I think it's at 0BTDC.
The FC pulley's leading mark is 5ATDC, as is the 20B's pulley, right? They don't quite match up when directly compared, so my 0 degree mark is something like 8 degrees away from the stock FC leading mark. Or maybe it was exactly 10 degrees? I forgot already.