APT CSVT

I just registered so I could use the search feature which I've done some already. Let me introduce myself.

I've got an 85 SE 149k miles all stock. I've owned the car for about a year and a half, but don't drive it all that much. I've done some replacement things, but nothing major. Lately, I've been thinking that it just isn't quite putting out the power I think it should. It's not that it ever did have a ton of power, but based upon some findings here and across the Internet, I think there are some common issues.

Before I do anything, I need to investigate an oil leak. There's the metal cover under the front part of the engine that I'll have to remove to figure out where it's coming from. i'm hoping it's just and oil pan gasket.

Assuming that isn't major, the car has good torque in the 2500-5000rpm range, but power falls off over that. I've done one higher speed autocross (I hit 60, Vette's hitting 75mph), I really noticed the lack of power near redline. After some research here I suspect clogged cats as another issue is my bad fuel economy. I get about 19mpg in the summer and 16 in the winter. Anyone else think clogged cats? If so, what kind of remidies? Michigan has no emmisions testing anymore, but I don't want it too loud. I'd love the Racing Beat system, but cannot justify $700 right now. I don't really have a lot of money to pour into it as i have other vehicles, hobbies, and a house to take care of.

Before you sugest it, I will do the ATF treatment after inspecting the oil leak. I already picked up a bottle of MMO.

I replaced a bunch of susension bushings in the spring, but it sounds like I need to do the steering idler arm ones next. Also, I replaced the rear sway bar links and bushings and now it knocks. I tihnk it's hitting the frame. It's kind of annoying on Michigan's terrible roads.

There is a nice drivetrain humm that i think is the diff. I have tried to change the fluid as well as the trans fluid, but didn't have a good system of getting new fluid back in. I'll just say that I wasted a lot of expensive sythetic fluid. I recently bought a pump and will have to try it again hoping to fix that and some poor shifting problems.

I think that's about it. I guess I just wanted to have some people that have more experience with the first gens to back up my suspisions. If you have any tips, I would apprecieate them. Thanks in advance.

Aaron

genrex

[QUOTE] 149k miles all stock... oil leak..
good torque in the 2500-5000rpm range... lack of power near redline...

If the car was abused, 149k on the odometer gives reason to examine the seams of the engine as possible sources of the oil leak. Hopefully the seams look good. After that, I'd look at the usual suspects - oil lines, connections, drippage from the oil-pressure sensor, etc.

You may need a new fuel filter. Power to ~ 5000rpm is symptomatic of a clogged fuel filter. I don't know of a seat-of-the-pants way to tell if the cats are clogged... perhaps a top speed of 80 or so??

[QUOTE] There is a drivetrain humm... I tried to change the diff fluid as well as the trans fluid, but didn't have a good system of getting new fluid back in... bought a pump and will try it again hoping to fix that and some poor shifting problems.

Could you describe the shifting problems you are having?

Keep the shiny side up..

speckamp

You can get a highflow cat or a "race pipe" from mazdatrix or rx7.com. I've got a high flow converter because of emissions here in NY, but if you don't have to worry about that, you can get a pipe from racingbeat / mazdatrix / rx7.com that will replace all 3 cats with a pre-silencer and provide for the 6port actuation. (info at rx7.com: http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/1catalo...cat=4&part=120 )

I got an outboard motor grease pump for $5 and used that to pump in fluid to the tranny and diff. Took a bit of time but worked like a charm.

You might want to look into new shocks/struts/springs. My 85 SE's were so bad there was no rebound on the front struts, and the springs were so shot that the tokico lowering springs raised the car by an inch. The ride's not that harsh, and it might cure that clunking you're getting.

The only thing I will mention, is that if you're planning on getting the RB full exhaust, you can either hold off on the race pipe above, or you can buy that, use it for alittle while, sell it on e-bay, and then throw in the Rb system. It's up to you. Hell, I might take it off your hands for like 80$ if you do decide to buy it then sell it, I could use one to throw on for...uh, racing use (read: in between inspections)

Feel free to PM / e-mail me with any more questions, keep the -se happy, she's a rare 1st gen.

--matt

APT CSVT

The car was likely abused because I know a previous owner had autocrossed it quite regularly. I purchased it from a friend whose wife was expecting their first child and 2 seats wasn't going to work. He only had it from 130k to 137k miles.

As for the lack of high end power, it certainly goes 80mph, in fact every day I drive it to work it does. I've had it up to 100mph or so, but steering and suspension doesn't really merit high speed runs. It just seems to fall off at about 5500rpm in scond gear. I noticed when I first got it and pinpointed it when I autocrossed it once. I was better off using 3rd gear a little lower than I would have normally thought to.

My parts car (12A 155k miles) was free from this same friend about 4 years ago now. He bought it at an auction and after 2 years, didn't have any time to look at it. So, I put aobut $500 into it and drove it for about 4000 miles. Our college's car club rented out a a drag strip for a morning and that ran 17.3's @ about 78mph for about 15 passes. Very consistent except when I banged the gate between 1-3. This SE feel about the same, possibly a couple tenths quicker. I had a 16 flat car and now a mid to low 15 second car. This SE is far from those.

That's all my experience driving first gens, though so maybe my butt dyno is off.


When I bought the car at about 137k, shifting was great, except for reverse. It would grind unless I put it into 2nd to synch, thne to reverse. No big deal. I thought I could help that by changing the trans fuild and while I was at it, the diff which probalby haven't been done in a long time. I got some of the synthetic stuff from Mazdatrix, Neo-gear. It didn't really help and now at 149k it shifts better without the clutch than with. It seems smooth when the trans is cold, but my 1 hour commute when I drive it doesn't seem to fare too well. I was honestly expecting to break it when I autocrossed as 4000rpm clutch dumps are not known to be the most drivetrain-friendly kind of starts. :o But, it is unphased but continues to drag. I suspect it needs a new clutch as the throughout bearing rattles like crazy. No sliping, just the t/o bearing I suspect. Someone must have liked to hold the clutch to the floor during red lights. So, I'm not looking farward to replacing the clutch, but it could be any day I think.

The drivetrain hum I'm pretty sure is the diff. It doesn't exactly lock the wheels when coming out of blvd turnarounds. It did behave well at the autocross with both trailbraked and power on oversteer, though.

Thanks for your help so far.

APT CSVT

Oh, I have changed the fuel filter once already, new NGK plugs, Bosch wires, cap and rotor, K&N drop in air filter. Most of the basic tune up things, athough this whole MMO or ATF treatment thing is obviously new to me.

I was under it last night lookign at the oil leak situation. There is a lot of oil aroind the oil pan gasket area, but it starts higher. To me, it looks like between the engine and trans. Does that help?

The car had power steering, but the pump leaked like crazy, meaning I'd have to fill it up ever 200 miles. So, I disconnected the belt (and the A/C belt which did actually work, but needed a recharge). Anyway, there is probably a lot of PS fluid all over the place to i think I'm going to clean it up before taking things apart. But, make no mistake, there is oil coiming from somewhere.

Part of my problems are going to come from lack of experience. I've never done a clutch before and the last and only engine I took apart down to the heads didn't hold oil pressure and it had to be replaced (by not me). But I'll try.

APT CSVT

[QUOTE]Originally posted by speckamp
I got an outboard motor grease pump for $5 and used that to pump in fluid to the tranny and diff. Took a bit of time but worked like a charm.
/quote]

I used the $12 pump I have to change the trans fluid on another car this week and it worked very well. I think it'll work for the RX as well.

It definately needs new springs as they are the original. I was concerned with the ride hight with lowering springs, but your experience helps with that. I I don't rely on the car except when it snows as the other car I drive has summer only tires. And since the SE came with a second set of wheels with Blizzaks, I'd better use them. So, some ground clearnace is required. I will get to the springs soon.

The exhasut, I may wait a bit. The whole thing is quite rusty and trying to take any of it apart will probably result in destruction. So, at least until I can decide the fate of some other things and questioning the clogged cats, it will wait until this winter is over. Thanks for the help, though.

genrex

It might be best to have an exhaust shop work on your exhaust, eh. Speckamp has good ideas... I'm going to look into doing that... the 6-port actuators work well with the stock set-up, and I'm interested in a high-flow cat system where they would still work well.

Good to hear that the oil leak isn't coming from the engine seams. If it's coming from the engine-tranny interface, my VW experience tells me that a deteriorated "flywheel seal" might be the cause... this was time-consuming to fix, as the tranny/clutch had to be moved out of the way first.

Keep the engine in front of you..

jimmyv13

Don't worry about changing the clutch, it's not hard at all. I did mine by myself in about four hours. The tranny is not heavy, I just pulled it off and set it on my chest. The -SE might be different, but I don't know. Make sure you get an alignment tool before you start. I'd do it before it get's too cold outside, you definitely don't want to be on the side of the road in the winter. Good luck.

Fellow Michiganer!!

APT CSVT

Reading through the Haynes manual and some info on-line, it doesn't look that difficult. My dad has a barn with a 3ft deep pit I can work under, but I'll have to find a friend to help hold the trans up, though. I will certainly get the clutch alignment tool and a few other extra parts while it's open.

Do you have that big socket I for the flywheel? Might as well take it off for resurfacing while it's apart. I hear it's $35 for a one time use.

I'm not sure what this flywheel seal is that genrex is referring to. With my limited understanding of the clutch systemI know of no seals in there. Am I mistaken or is if just that the flywheel should probably be resurface with a new pressure plate?

Jimmy, want to help? j/k

Thanks for the advice so far. I'd start this weekend on some of the work, but I'm going out of town until Wednesday so it'll be next weekend for some of the first minor things.

jimmyv13

I guess you can take the flywheel off and have it resurfaced. I didn't do it when I changed my clutch, but it's up to you. Yes, you'll need the 2 1/4" socket and a long extension for leverage. You'll have to have somebody wedge a screwdriver between the the flywheel and the housing. You'll see once you get down there.
I don't know of the flywheel seal either, unless mine didn't have one previously. Genrex will have to elaborate on that one.

I'd love to help you, but I am a full time student and I work 60 hours a week at two jobs.

Denny

Hey Pardner,

Just finished doin' clutch on one of my SE's. Make sure you mark the underwire connections with tags or tape so that you plug the right ones into their homes. Doin' it yourself layin' on a creeper is a big fat bear, but can be done. Yes to the clutch alignment tool. My flywheel was in great shape so didn't pull it off.

Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...