I'll try not to get too much into detail, but how many psi should my stock fuel pump be putting out?? Its an '83 GSL, with the fuel system and engine being stock . The car ran shitty before I rebuilt the carb, and now it doesn't run at all!! the "fuel shot" used to dribble out the carb, as well as the acc. pump shot, now I have nothing!! Two weeks ago I came to the conclusion of rebuilding the carb. I was very tedious in rebuilding it, and I made sure that EVERY passage was clear. I also adjusted the floats as exactly described in the Haynes manual (exactly 16mm from bottom-most point, and 51mm from top-most point), and I triple checked everything. I have fuel flow, but it seems soooo weak, that I can stop it merely by covering the hose opening with my finger when I had the fuel line off, but the actual pump itself is working just fine! Is it possible that the "vanes" in the pump wore out, or is this sort of pressure normal?? BTW, I did replace the fuel filter. I did, however, try blowing into the main fuel line inlet into the carb, and there seemed to be quite a bit of resistance though, which leaves me wondering. From what I could see, the fuel level was halfway up in the front sight glass, but I couldn't see the rear one.
Please help!

 

I would start off by pulling the fuel line off the carb and sticking it into a cup, basicly follow the fuel pump test in the haynes to see if your getting the rite volume, page 67 I beleive I just had this sort of problem. it should pump out around 1.16 litters like 2 or 3 cups of gas in like 60 seconds this will answer if your gettin enfough fuel to the carb.

~Josh

 

When I checked to see if I had fuel, in the 15 or so seconds that it ran, it had filled up the folgers coffee can halfway. I know thats not the most accurate response, but it's close enough. (sigh)

 

Alright, I just checked it, and in 60 seconds I got 1.5 Liters (or 50+ ounces) of gas. Fuel delivery seems ok, but still the same problem. I've left the ignition on for like 5 minutes and operated the throttle fully from close to open several times.........still nothing.

 

Are you sure you have the fuel lines back on correctly? ie. from the correct line on the fire wall to the input of the carb,,,and also in the correct dieection ie. follow the arrow???

 

Yeah, they're definitely on the correct way. Well, now I've got the carburetor back off the car with the air horn off. I now need to check yet again if the floats are adjusted correctly..............but I do have a question for STERLING or RX7CARL...........where exactly were those check ***** at?? I didn't see them when I pulled it apart and put it back together the first time (a few days ago). Now either I lost them, or they're stuck inside. Need more help!

 

Well, just talked to Sterling and I re-adjusted the floats, and placed the checkballs in the carb like he said-----(didn't have the checkballs before!!). Now I'm gonna put this thing back on and hope it works this time around!!
If not, well then............... and

 

Did you accidentally reverse the little silver inline valve on the return line from the carb. You may also want to disconect this line and check for fuel flow out of this too.

 

-Yeah, I checked the flow coming out of that return line as well, before the valve, and after it as well. The valve is still working correctly. Well, I'm putting the carb back on it tomorrow, and hopefully with good results!!

 

Awesome!! The carburetor works!!!...........And it apparently was working the entire time.....
Well, always doing things the hardest way possible......I've ruled out the possible fact that I may have a fuel problem!!!
It was an ignition problem all along.........gee, don't I feel special
Well, I'm gonna write up another thread now while kicking myself in the ***!! Hope I get it right this time!!
Oh yeah, BTW, it looks and seems like the leading plugs are firing only half the time and with half the spark. The rear rotor is the only one really firing, I've got decent compression (105 psi front and rear), I've tried 3 different sets of plugs--stock, racing, and non resistant single electrode....all NGK's, 3 different sets of wires---stock, magnecor, and crane cams. It has 2 MSD coils, and the cap and rotor look pretty new (and they're brass). Oh yeah, and after about a half an hour, I finally got it to stay running and it sounds like ***!!!!! with the choke on and idling at 2000 rpms, it takes 4 seconds to get close to 3000 rpms when I give it any amount of throttle (halfway to floored).
This, gentlemen, is my new dilemma.