search sucks my ***** due to this proxy error, so i'm just gonna ask... and i just got a proxy error trying to post this, so i get to retype it all... anyways, some background info on the car... its an 84 GSL, bought the car with no motor, had origional transmission and rear end... has 143k miles on it... it sat in a garage for 6 years before i got it last year in january for 300 bux... so i put a 13B 6 port in it, street ported(see avatar) with holley 600 cfm carb... put bout 250 miles on the motor now, maybe a bit more(used the old bearings in the motor, motor had less than 30k on it), got brand new side seals, corner seals, 93 corner seal springs, apex seals, etc, basically all new seals and springs... so i've been rippin on it pretty good, and my rear end started making a whirring sound 2 days ago... its got a whir on accelerating, and a different whir on decelerating... any ideas what this is? anyways i'm gonna be dropping the rear end this weekend, is there anything i should be looking for while i have the cover off? i'm gonna dump all the fluid and replace it, what kind of fluid do u guys recommend? i'm sure i need something with a LSD additive, but not sure of brand, etc....

 

Royal Purple (Racing Beat)'s Fluid has additives already in it, it's synthetic too so it reduces heat which is a big + in the rear end and tranny...it's what I'll be using if I keep my car soon enough.

- Tech

 

found a royal purple dealer near me, i'll definately check that out... i thought royal purple was the name of what most recommended

 

Yeah,

RP or Red Line

- Tech

 

Keep us posted on the progress, please. I am getting ready to drop my GS rear axle and drums brakes and swap with a GSL LSD and discs. Details are appreciated!
(sorry for a semi-hijack!)

 

Keep in mind that the noise could also be a rear wheel bearing. Does the sound change if you jerk the wheel from side to side? That would be an indication of a wheel bearing. Otherwise, you are probably on the right track with the diff.

You might want to take a look in the "parts for sale" section. There's a guy in Indiana who has several differentials for sale at a good price. A good replacement would probably be a lot easier than an attempted rebuild if it comes to that. I am having the same issue right now, and new (synthetic) fluid did not make a difference. I think that there is just too much slack between the pinion and the ring gears (knocks a bit when on/off the gas).

Good luck with it. You might also want to check out Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. They say you can use it in the diff, and don't need lsd addatives when using it. I have used it in my engine, and it solved a couple of issues for me so I'm pretty impressed with it so far...

 

No,

You're really not supposed to add in third party additives than what's in there, it may seem like it does good but in actual reality it doesn’t...

Take an example,

I had a 1995 Ford Thunderbird LX, 200k Miles on Original Tranny, most last to 120k before the tranny goes out and I added a quart of Lucas Tranny fluid and drove the car around for about a month (yes I drained some fluid before hand) and sure enough the tranny went out.

Now, I can't positively say that the lucas tranny stab caused it, because it was probably on the way out already, I don't tend to bad mouth it because the oil additive did stop the smoking problem the car would have on start up (just a small small poof after I gutted the cats, nothing OUT rageous, from the valve stem seals).

So, I'm in the middle, however in the promos for Royal Purple they state the additives are already in the fluid so you don't have to add in an LSD additive. I stand by Royal Purple though 110% because their premix works perfect and their oils is GREAT! When I switched back to dino oil I noticed my engine was running hotter (so hot that I couldn’t touch it) when I had the RP in there, I could lay my head on the intake manifold and it not scar my face.

- Tech

 

amsoil

 

OK, first off, pull the plug and check out the condition of the the fluid. See how much metal is in the fluid, what color it is, what it smells like. I work at a Jeep dealership, and jeeps go through diffs like you wouldnt believe. Hate to say it, but if youve already got a whine, all the fluid and additive in the world are not going to save that thing. In my experiance, a whiny type whirring sound is usually an internal bearing, carrier or pinion. Either one more or less means a rebuild is in order. Id start looking for another rear end.

 

oh jesus those cherokees are notorious for rear-ends, my uncle had 3 in his shop at once for rear end problems.

 

I dont know what it is. you can put the same diff in a wrangler and it will be fine. Put it in a cherokee and 40 thousand miles later BOOM! Its a Jeep thing, you wouldnt understand.

 

i know there are 2 LSD rear ends sitting at the import junkyard already out of the car, so i got 2 to choose from right now... not sure what years they r from tho, and no the sound doesn't change when i crank the wheel

 

http://mazdatrix.com/g2.htm

 

it's a heep-a-jeep thats what.

 

thanks, good link...

priced another rear end at the junk yard, 250 bux :|

 

No prob Elysian. Did you sell the convert REPU?

 

i did unfortunately i couldn't afford to have both, had to make a choice... hopefully the new owner will be happy with it, he seemed like he was when he picked it up

i'll probly try and get another one down the road(not too far tho, hard enough to find em as it is!)

 

after replacing the fluid, and noticing there was no sign of metal in the rear diff fluid, i've come to the conclusion its probly wheel bearings... i'll find out tho eh...