ok..you may have seen my "squirting overflow" thread, and if you have..you know that i have a coolant seal leak. i've tried the fix..using the stop leak stuff in my radiator. i recently installed an electric fan..and flushed my coolant and re-added the leak stopper. today after work...the pressure in my overflow built up to the point that it POPPED the top off of it, coolant went EVERYWHERE...flew up the side of my windshield...i was like holy ****..turned off the ignition (steering locked, no more brakes oh ****...) managed to safely get it off the road...i was expecting to see a blown radiator hose or something, but no..just that damn overflow cap. so i sat and let it cool down..i knew i lost a lot of coolant..but i wasn't far from home. so after letting it cool off..i started again...about half way home i hear "pop" so i pull over..let it cool off...go the rest of the way home "pop" so as soon as i got home and let it cool down a bit, i vented the radiator, then filled it back up to normal level. it's sitting in the driveway right now with the electric fan running...


what the heck should i do? i've been wanting a new engine soon, but i don't have the cash, i think my mom will help me out as long as i pay her back though...

my original plans were for an S4 T2, SE motor mount and oil pan, my 12A front cover, 12A flywheel, S4 harness and ECU, and my stock drivetrain. can rotary shack provide all this? that's who i was originally going to look to...what's the shipping time on one of his used S4 T2 motors?

as for my stock drivetrain, i just recently changed the fluids, using synthetic. i put mobil 1 in the tranny..(beginning to regret this, just looked at some prices on amsoil...) and syn-go in the diff with the LSD additive. will i need a beefier clutch to handle the 180hp of the T2 motor? if so..any recommendations? keep in mind im using the 12A flywheel and tranny.

thanks all..

 

If you're buying used parts, your best source is a junkyard. Just find a good one around your area. U-pull yards are the best ones.
The engine should go in okay with the SE stuff and 12a front cover attached to it. Although, I haven't tried it myself. You should keep the 13b flywheel since the rear counterweight is attached to it, though. I think they're the same size.
I'm pretty sure a 12a tranny won't work with a 13b engine. I tried this myself once when I used to have a FC and the 12a tranny would not go in. (couldn't find a s4 tranny around...) I think the spline count on the input shafts are different. Looked close, though. I called mazdatrix after I tried it, and they advised me that a 12a tranny would absolutely not work, and I was crazy for trying it.
Anyways, good luck.

 

i'll also be needing an FMIC...

for the tranny, the one that i have has 250,000+ miles on it but i heard the 12A tranny WOULD work by using a 12A flywheel and counter-weight. how hard would it be to use a 13B tranny???would it even attach to my driveshaft?

 

I had this problem in my 83, that was 8 years ago. Like you I had no cash to rebuild my engine (I was a student at the time). Every morning that I took my car for a drive I would open the radiator cap and, remove the overflow tank and pour the antifreeza back in the radiator (engine must be cold to do this though, never open when hot!). I drove the car while doing this every morning for about 8 months, then I sold the car. It never overheated, never refused to start, and the overflow cap never busted.

I don't know how serious your leak is, but my overflow cap would bust about every 3 days if I didn't transfer my antifreeze back in the radiator.

 

When its cold and running with the cap off, can you see bubbles in the coolant? Your sure its not your cap right?

 

I doubt the 12a flywheel would work on a 13b. I mean, it might bolt on, but you'd likely get some vibrations and the engine balance would be off.
Someone running a 13b tranny on a 12a could prove me wrong, I dunno. I'm too lazy to search around.
You know there are several TII conversion threads around....
*AHEM*AHEM...

 

12a tanny will work. From what I have recenly learned its: flywheel match tranny, counter weight match motor. Now if the counter weight from a TII will work with the stock 12a flywheel I don't know you might need an aftermarket flywheel...

For you to use a s4 motor with out a stand along computer you will need: s4 afm, s4 computer, s4 wiring harness right and LEFT! You need the coil packs. Too.

As for the front mount. If you don't have the funds front mount the stock intercooler. If I'm not mistaken they are good for 10-12lbs of boost. Use that for the time being.

Things to consider: exhast (stock won't bolt up to the s4), down pipe, fuel cut, guages (atleast boost and air-fuel), good spark plugs and wires, lsd if you don't already have it.

 

my '85 is a GSl, so i have the LSD covered..i also already have an FC leading coil with ignitor. i guess i can remount that top mount...but i'll need new piping to get it up there, can't a muffler shop make this?? for the AFM, wouldn't that come with the rotary shack motor? (these are long blocks by the looks of it.)

as for the other T2 swaps..i dont think any are exactly like the one i'm planning.

this was the first time the overflow cap blew off...normally the overflow just makes bubbles in there, and sometimes will spew a bit out of the top.

 

and i'm also hoping i can cut a small deal with the guy from rotary shack...i won't need many of the parts that it looks like he includes with his used motors. i only need the necessitys!

 

well..just messing around at this point. i drilled larger holes in my overflow cap (to vent the pressure) and it seemed to work a little better. when i got home and opened the hood..there was a bubbling mass sitting on top of the overflow. the holes did their job..but maybe a little too well. lol. what the heck is causing this!!?? faulty radiator cap? faulty thermostat? whatever it is..i'm still planning on pulling this motor.

 

try a new rad cap. it's a lot cheaper than filling up with a/f all the time and a hell of a lot cheaper than a motor.

 

what lb is stock on an FB? my aftermarket cap says 13lb..and its one of the lever lock type. any recommendations? (and i KNOW i need a new motor, the person i bought the car from was a former mazda technician and told me of the coolant leak, now i have first hand experience) and the only way to get rid of that coolant leak is a rebuild..or new motor...and i would prefer to have an S4 13BT, since it has around the hp i want STOCK (better reliability than mods)

 

Hmm, according to mazdatrix site, the clutch alignment tool is the same from 74-92, so I guess a 12a tranny will work on a 13b. I swear I messed with that tranny for 2 hours trying to get it installed, but it just would not go. Seemed like the input splines wouldn't line up, so I figured they were different, ah, well. Flywheel maybe?
Anyways, fbdrifter, there is enough information out there to cover at least 90% of the info you need for your specific swap. Turbofb.com is a good one...

 

All parts needed for the 13BT Swap...

longblock
AFM
GSL-SE motor mount and oil pan
relocate IC to front
swap 12A flywheel onto 13B
Harness
ECU
Leading and Trailing FC coil packs
boost gauge, air/fuel

is that it???

 

will ANY afm work? or does it have to be turbo.