windshiled washer problems
#1
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windshiled washer problems
I have an 83 but the washer pump is not working
all is connected , thier is power, tried 3 diffrent bottles/pump and a friend belives it might be the switch(wipers do work) what could it be?
all is connected , thier is power, tried 3 diffrent bottles/pump and a friend belives it might be the switch(wipers do work) what could it be?
#3
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no I do not . I thought it was my pump so I bought anotherbottle with a pump tried that no luck went to a friends house who only deals with FB's and he had 3-4 around tried those as well and no luck we belive it maybe the switch but if that is the case then why does the wiper work when I press the washers on the switch the wipers work
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because there are different paths for the current to flow and if the washer current path is broken the wipers will still work but the washers wont. if you look at the wiper/washer scematics youd know. also did you check your fuses, there are two different fuses in the underdash fuse box for washers and wipers. They should be two 10 amps, I would check them vissually and with a test light just to be sure.
#5
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I checked the fuses even replaced still no luck
what could it be?
is their a link or websites for the wiring diagram?
worts comes to worst either I will replace the switch/coloumn or rewire it on a seprate switch.
does anybody have any answers
what could it be?
is their a link or websites for the wiring diagram?
worts comes to worst either I will replace the switch/coloumn or rewire it on a seprate switch.
does anybody have any answers
#6
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look for trochoids signature, he has a link to a FSM and then once you click on that link it will have all the service manuals u including wiring diagrams. i think this is ithttp://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html
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Check to make sure juice is getting to the pump connector. If you can't afford a $6 voltmeter from Harborfreight just solder two wires to an old 12v. bulb with alligator clips at the end.
I'm pretty cheap, so I notice that my test bulb is an old 1034 taillight bulb that was replaced 'cause one of the 2 filaments burned out so I put the remaining filament to work in this test rig. I think that bulb came out of a '49 Ford I once owned. I also notice that the wire is zipcord salvaged from a defunct household appliance on it's way to the trashcan. I seem to recollect making that test rig about 1958, or so, and though I've carried it in the glove compartment of every DD since then and used it to solve many electrical problems, I haven't had to replace the batteries yet.
So I think I can safely recommend assembling one of these rigs. I'm sure you'll realize the full potential ROI from such an investment.
I'm pretty cheap, so I notice that my test bulb is an old 1034 taillight bulb that was replaced 'cause one of the 2 filaments burned out so I put the remaining filament to work in this test rig. I think that bulb came out of a '49 Ford I once owned. I also notice that the wire is zipcord salvaged from a defunct household appliance on it's way to the trashcan. I seem to recollect making that test rig about 1958, or so, and though I've carried it in the glove compartment of every DD since then and used it to solve many electrical problems, I haven't had to replace the batteries yet.
So I think I can safely recommend assembling one of these rigs. I'm sure you'll realize the full potential ROI from such an investment.
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Originally Posted by dominicaneddy
again there is juice going to the pump but it something with the switch I am going to check the diagram and figure things out.
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It's doubtful 3 pumps would be bad. It may be the connector itself. I'd take a couple pieces of wire and put a terminals on them that would plug into the pump. Then I would connect straight to the battery and see if the pump runs. If it runs, and your sure there is power at the normal connector, then it would just about have to be that the connector is not making good contact.
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