ray green

iTrader: (14)

My 85 GSL, the Silver One, still has her original paint, maroon pin stripes and all. She shines real pretty except on top, where she's starting to fade.



The silver paint is still there, so what I'm thinking is if I clean here up real well and spray her with some Krylon Clear Coat, it could look pretty good.

Next dry spell I'll give it a try an post the results.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

wet sand with 1500 grit then either wax the hell out of it or clear with acrylic enamel.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I have noticed that most "rattle can" clears turn yellow after a heavy dose of UV. Use something that is for exterior use. Also make sure and buy higher end clear (if using rattle can) so that the spray pattern is a vertical line or oval, not your standard spot or circle. This will help that you get a good overlap and dont stripe the hell out of your hood. Good luck and have fun.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Ray, get some wheel clear! It is about $8 a can (from a reputable company like Rustoleum) and
can handle the heat. I put some on my wheels and it has yet to yellow or crack.

Food for thought!

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Buff and polish - only use 1500/2000 paper for the heavy oxidation- just needs some compound/polish/wax!

Don''t use any clear; unless it is automotive clear and you have the proper gun to shoot it with.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

ditto!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Well I have been doing the buff and wax thing for the past year, it looks pretty good for a week or two but doesn't last long. I've waxed that part of the car a dozen times, I'd like to do something that gives a little less maintenance.

This is my daily driver, not a show car. I want it to look good but it doesn't have to be perfect. I used the Krylon Clear Coat on my X wheels, like Stu is suggesting. The Krylon on the wheels has held up very well, no yellowing and still shiny after several years of hard use. That's why I was thinking it might work well for the hood.

A professional job would be nice, but if it looks nearly as good with a couple rattle cans and an afternoon's effort I'd be happy.

In my experience the automotive clear coats aren't nearly as clear as the Krylon. The automotive clear coats I used on some of my interior parts left a duller and rougher finish than I get with Krylon, which is crystal clear and smooth. That's why I was thinking the Krylon might be better.

Probably the best thing to do would be to experiment with a few different products on some spare parts and see what looks good. Anybody got any suggestions? So far I have the Krylon, automotive clear coat and Wheel Clear to compare.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

paint interaction would be the biggest concern. I would say sure, spray a couple spare parts which have the same paint and watch over a couple days for any reaction. To test heat and reaction, just mask and spray a patch under the hood, same paint and exposure to heat as well. As for myself, I would give it a whirl.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I already sprayed under the hood with Rustolium Metallic Silver, so I can't use under there as a reference





But I've got some spare FB body parts lying around, I'll spray them.



I'm thinking some Krylon Crystal Clear Clear Coat couldn't hurt.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Who's the chick Ray? She doesn't look like your typical goat!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Whoops that was supposed to be a photo of some old fenders. That's a friend of Juno's, from the OGTA meets. You and she would make a fine couple, do you want me to hook you up?

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I hate to say it, but this sounds like you aren't using the right buffing equipment/product. Get a quality 3M compound and polishing wheel. A polish should last well over a year plus if you use some good wax right after the buff. Most likely you will need a compound buff then a glazing buff. i.e 3M # 3 for compound (white cap) and #2 for the glaze (black cap) - foam pads are better than wool, but get what fits your budget. You find these at an auto paint supply shop NOT an auto parts store...or at least not the ones around me..


Find a neighbor/ local forum member with the right equipment and it should only cost you the price of a case of beer! Bout' the same price as several rattle cans and it will make your hood look new again. Also, a professional buff on just the hood should only be $35....or so. Hit up the body shops after hours and bring some cash/beer - you'll be amazed how friendly people are if you tip them well.

WTF!??!?!?!?! Put the crack pipe down!

Not to bust your bubble here, or be rude, but WTF are you talking about. Auto clear coats are clear as glass- just check out a newly painted car. However, they need proper prep work to look right AND they are meant to go on PAINT, not plastic.....there in lies your problem. You will find out quickly that rattle can paint: is a different type of paint than what on your hood. Will not stand up to the temperature; and will not last as long, possibly react with the other paint.....and.....good luck buffing or waxing it for long term use. I recommend you use the right product for the job. Auto paint is not meant for ineterior parts, and interior paint shouldn't be used on exterior parts. They are completeely different types of paint. Possibly save up a few extra $$ over the next month and get it done right - but thats just my .02 cents. To each his own. I completely understant the $$ issue.

No harm in trying the rattle cans, but I've never seen a good job done - ever. I've spent more time fixing peoples rattle can touch-ups; even the color match automotive paint spray cans from auto stores- just stay away from them unless you are desperate. If you do use them, prep the surface w/ 400 grit - spary, let cure, then lightly hit with 2000 if necessary then buff and polish. ANd remember to use a sanding block and not your hand - been there done that! Good luck!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Hey, I'm trying to keep that '85 look. No car with a factory clear coat is going to capture that '85 look.

"prep the surface w/ 400 grit - spary, let cure, then lightly hit with 2000 if necessary then buff and polish. ANd remember to use a sanding block and not your hand - "

Thanks Keith, sounds like a Plan! Can you recommend a good clear coat rattle can? I'm getting psyched.

Scott1982

I went with clear on mine because of durability.
If you for some reason end up using a true automotive clear coat - make absolutely sure you use a respirator!!! The two part poly's will destroy your lungs permanently and you won't even know what hit you.

They do however look nice and protect well

Ken7102

this

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the warnings on the automotive paint Keith, several years ago I painted my Volvo 122 jet black with that stuff with help from my brother in law, who had some experience. Other than a couple small runs it came out perfect, very pretty. But between the prep work and the painting it was quite a bit of work and expense.

You do need to be careful and have a suitable work space plus equipment, an interesting project but more effort than I was hoping to put in for this "touch up" project. If I paint the whole car I'll certainly take the professional approach.

The Krylon Clear coat is an acrylic enamel, that's probably why it works so well for the wheels. I used the "light" version on the wheels, the stuff those artsy people spray on everything:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintd...r-acrylic.aspx



However I see there is an "industrial" version available that might hold up better:

http://www.kpg-industrial.com/produc...crylic_enamel/



I haven't seen this stuff around in the homedepot stores but I'll start looking for some, it might do the trick. On the other hand, I see it's not advertised as "crystal clear" so I'd better get a can of each and do a comparison.

Thanks for the feedback dudes, if anyone else has a favorite rattle can clear coat please let me know!

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I have never used Krylon, but it is an acrylic enamel, so it should be okay.... I'd say try that industrial version.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i think i'm misunderstanding, but silver DID have a clear coat in 85

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

Yep, it did.

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

No need to fall prey to marketing hype. Clear is clear.

I wouldn't see a need to buy both. Try it. If its not "Crystal Clear" enough for you- sand it down and re-shoot with the other stuff. But I doubt any rattle can will lay perfectly flat once applied and might degrade quickly in the sun. Make sure to follow any prep work outlined on the side of the can.

And make sure to post some pics of the finished project!

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Yep J9, there is an original factory clear coat on the car and for the most part it's still in great shape, for 25 year old clear coat. Just the hood and a few patches on the roof are getting thin.

Of course a rattle job can't be as perfect as a nicely done automotive paint job, but I'm trying to match 25 year old clear coat, not a perfect new professional paint job. This car is out on the road all the time and almost always has a decent coat of road dust, so as long as the rattle paint is pretty good for all practical purposes it should be fine.

I usually apply three or four coats of enamel with fine sanding in between and on the parts I've done it comes out pretty smooth. Keeping it even over the whole hood will be a new challenge but that's the idea, see if it can be done with reasonable results that at least look a whole lot better than the current fading.

I'm more worried about Keith's concern - how long will it last? The Krylon clear coat on my wheels has held up find for years, but of course they don't get the sun the top of the car does. If it fades, peels or yellows quickly, it really is time to have the whole car professionally painted.

We'll see how it goes, I might get to it this weekend if the afternoon rain showers let up and we get some dry weather. I'll start with the industrial paint if I can find it and I'll be sure to get some good photos before and after.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

ok, i thought you were talking about something else =)

on my last gsl-se the clear coat actually had a number of really fine cracks in it, it was like that when i bought it, and i waxed it and stuff but i think it was already too late.

however if the clear is just thin, or gone, i don't see why it wouldn't work.

try a small area, like the top of the rear bumper, or a headlight lid and see what happens

i wouldn't worry about the durability too much, can't be worse than what you have