jays83gsl

Okay, now that I have some stuff figured out (there was this tube, above the exhaust, sort of, and it shoots out gas when I release the secondaries. I didn't know this existed, and it didn't have a tube, so that's fixed) I STILL can't get the car to start right.

1983 GSL, stock.

When I have the choke pulled ALL the way out, the car will start without me pumping the gas. It won't STAY started though.

The mixture (the easy to find one) I screwed all the way to the right (toward the car) and put it two and a half turns to the left, as I was instructed. The Idle screw (I think. It's lower down, and farther toward the car) was screwed in all the way to the right. Er, clockwise, I guess. Where should this be?

The car doesn't idle at ALL, and I have to keep the accelerator down to keep it running. With the accelorator down, it seems to rev just fine (nice and fast, better than before, when it idled), but if I let the revs drop, they do just that. Drop, and keep dropping.

The carb gets a lot of fuel in it, but I think that's because of the fact that the Fuel Pump doesn't have an auto-off thingy. (I think) Once I turn the key off, it stops getting fuel, and all drains out.

It is smoking a lot again, but I imagine that's because there is gas on the exhaust (eek!) since I didn't have that hose hooked up, and the gas is burning off.

It starts rather easily, with only a couple seconds of holding the key to the start position. THis is only with the choke all the way out, but it's better than before.

If I'm missing any details y'alls need, just tell me.

Thanks AGAIN

Kentetsu

Have you checked the float levels? Also, I think you start at 1 1/2 turns to the left on the idle screw (not sure though). And shouldn't that be right above or below the other screw? Mabye its different on your year, but mine are right in line vertically. Good luck.

slashdawg00110

You've got the mix screw OK. According to sterling, it should be out about 2 1/4 turns. The idle speed screw sounds like it's open all the way. Running it clockwise opens the throttle plates. I think you need to close it a few turns, 3 or 4 complete turns maybe.

Have you let the car warm up fully? This will make a difference. You're not going to be able to set the idle properly on a cold engine.

Just so we're clear on it. It starts when choked. But then won't stay running unless you keep your foot on the accel pedal? Is the choke still closed? Is the fast idle rod connected?

if you're not familiar with the fast idle rod, look at this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=fast+idle+rod

Scroll down and look at cdrad51's picture.

I'm confused. The pump is always on. When you say "drains out", what do you mean? Have you looked at both float bowls? What are the levels?

You got a pic of this? I'm not sure what tube you're talking about.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Most people blame starting problems and poor running on fuel, when most times the only reason the fuel seems to be the culprit is because the spark isn't BURNING the fuel, that's why you may have flooding issues bogging poor starts. If I had to guess I would say your igniters arent doing thier job. Check them out.

Rotor13B

That or the spark plugs. All it takes is a few times being flooded and you can foul the plugs to the point they won't fire worth a **** unless your really on it.

jays83gsl

Well, they're BRAND new NGK. I'm hoping I haven't fouled them. It doesn't seem like the engine has flooded yet.

How do you let a car warm up if it doesn't idle? Just keep gassing it?

Once it's started, I can keep it going with the choke on OR off.

I Guess the idle rod is connected, since the butterflies close when I pull the little ****.

Rotor13B

get some carb cleaner and check for vacumn leaks.

ChasRX

Don't manually push the choke in. It will retract on its own after the engine is warm. It takes a few minutes; so, yes, you can keep it going with the choke pulled to be engaged.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

did you check the igniters yet?

r0taryr0ck3t

i doubt its the ignitors but maybe

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I'm having the exact same problem. Help us both. I just replaced the fuel pump and it does the same, runs untill the key is switched off. I've never had a 1st gen before and so I have no idea what I'm doing.

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

also to the top

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

You also should do a compression test... I bet it's ignigters though, they go out like crazy and when they do.........

jays83gsl

Okay, I'm pretty sure it's vaccuum. But, how do I check ignitors? I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't start at all if the ignitors are to blame. It gets compression. As I've said, it runs fine with use of the throttle. It just won't IDLE.

I'm starting to think the starter is going south, as well. As I crank it, the positive battery cable gets REALLY freakin' hot.

I did the nest removal, but I'm sure I did it wrong. For one thing, there's hoses going nowhere that should be going somewhere (one of the ones that goes to the purge valve, a big, fat tube from the carburetor. I didn't have a big, fat tube t-link on hand), and I'm still getting the same problem. I've adjusted the idle screw to a few different locations between one and three turns from the right (counterclockwise), adjusted the mixture screw everywhere from all the way in to all the way out, tried with the nest on, with the nest off, air cleaner on, air cleaner off, ALL hoses plugged, and just about every variant in between.
A chipped Apex seal wouldn't give me this problem, would it? Because I've heard that using Autolite plugs produces this problem (or something extremely similar), and it had Autolites in it when I got it.