I locked my distributor, but now I don't see the point. I looked through the factory service manual, and all the centrifugal advance does is retard the timing ~11deg for cranking. By 1000rpm it's at full advance.

So, since the centrifugal advance is just a start/retard, why does everyone lock it to run turbo motors?

 

Um, that's not how it works.

Actually use a timing light and look at the advance curve.

Stock, at idle it's at zero degrees. Shortly above idle it slopes upwards until at 4000rpm it's at 20 degrees.

I'm not exactly sure why people do what they do. I *assume* they run turbos that build boost along the same line as the weights add advance, so removing the mechanical advance does the same effective job as running a boost retard. Except of course your timing really sucks for running off boost.

I have a non-advance distributor that I plan on putting in after I pass emissions. I want to see if it helps my launching problems - launch low enough to not spin the tires and the engine falls in a hole as the revs drop as the clutch grabs.

I don't see why there need to be such intensive writeups. I mean, sheesh. All you have to do is remove the upper plate (yank ignitors, vacuum advance cans, and three screws) and then remove the advance spring weights. The weights can be left alone, any time the engine is rotating they will swing out to maximum advance, and you set the timing with the engine running, right? So no problems.

This is actually an old Mopar trick. The points distributors had more resistance to rotation than electronic, and removing the springs made for max advance when the engine fired, but minimum advance when cranking. IMportant when you're trying to spin a 13:1 Hemi with barely flowable sludge in the oil pan.

 

Hmmm, well ****. My engine won't start when it's hot unless I retard the timing a lot, but then it runs like ****. I tried a MSD start/retard box, but that made it misfire all the time and run even worse. It starts perfect when it's cold and compression is good. I just don't get it.

 

What timing are you running?

 

What is your timing set at? I'm at 10 degrees advanced for 6 lbs right now will move to 10 lbs shortly. I think, I was advised 6 lbs 15 degrees advanced and 10lbs 10 deg.. adv.. Have you tried swapping dizzies and seeing if that might be the problem? When mine is cold it will turn over with just the key. When she's warm I need to open the throttle about half way. Then again we both have two completly different mosters

Whats your ignition setup?

 

wow i for some reason just don't get timing. i can build one hell of an engine i can tune fuel by ear and smell, as long as timing is allready correct. For some reason it all just sounds like jibber jabber when peopletalk about timing where could i got to learn more about it? here sucks cause everyone is so quick to critisizeinstead of help...

 

Hmmm. What peejay says is interesting. I recently checked my timing and when I reved the engine up, I didn't notice any advance or retard besides the vacuum advance. On the throttle the timing advanced, but off throttle the timing was 0 degrees. No sign of centrifugal advance at all.

 

I put in the stock dizzy I had laying around, I'll have to borrow my friends timing light and check it to see what's happening.

I think I run my timing too advanced, but if I retard it to where it starts best it runs like ****. So I advance it until it runs great, but then it won't start when it's hot

 

did you check the compression when its hot?

i still dont think your ignition is where the problem lies, you barking up the WRONG tree!!!

rotarys dont care where the ignition timing is for startup like piston cars!!

 

Just put it in an tried moving it back and forth. Yeah that didnt work. Found out that my car was running about 20 degrees retarded. Whats really bad is I had a timing light and just didnt have any batteries. Got batteries set the timing. That was one more bug outa the way.

 

Running good now I put in my other distributor and it solved all the problems. It no longer eats the dizzy cap, it starts perfectly every time, and it idles smooth. The shaft on my old dizzy must be bent.

 

is this dizzy you're running now locked?

 

Well if you need a locked one i have one on ebay.. Tested and works good, even looks pretty

from what peejay was saying youll probably have to set your timing to 10 degrees retarded to compensate for the 20 degrees of advance.

Good to hear that the car is running good.

 

I'd like to thank Robert for getting my car running good again I think I called him at least 10 times yesterday trying to figure out how to fix this ****.

 

coldy, your fat!!!
and im sending you a bill for my lip services!!!! (phone bill)

 

Hey if you aint called ROTARYSHACK yet your missing out on some great LIP service.

Yeah, I'm fat too but it makes the stock seats feel some much more snug, like racing seats

 

your crazy too!!! that was a good one!
for turbo application, you must use a locked dizzy to prevent detonation due to too much timing wich can damage the motor!!!

i thought i would throw in some useful information!!

 

help i have a 82 rx7 with a stock 12a with electronic ignition, it backfires on deceleration any ideas??

 

Shutter valve?

Best to start a new thread. This one seems pretty FAT.

 

Backfiring on decel is normal. It's usually caused by an exhaust leak, shutter valve, or small vacuum leak.

 

i think your fat!!!

and your rx7 is phat!

 

Hey Robert, why have I been getting discounts on parts, I'm not fat!

 

maybe you're getting the pre-fat discounts.

 

well backfiring is not normal, but i have to agree, backfiring is normal with rotaries..... i say first check the shudder valve, then fix your exhaust leaks

 

****, you need to look in the mirror, your the fattest guy in the first gen section, fat ***!!!thats why you get all the rotaryshack love!!

now go eat some more food!!! pig