you should deffinatly be able to take cavaliers and civics...especially off the line. [/B][/QUOTE]

That's what I'm saying

 

heh heh I hope so. I thought it could when I bought it. PM'd you FBDrifter. Also will this fix the tachometer issue? Thanks for all of your input guys. So the money is on the trailing igniters.

 

you trailing ignition isnt working

 

^ another one here. So the diagnosis is right on target. I checked eBay for the igniter, where can I buy them. Local auto parts?

 

it should

 

they are really expensive 200$+
convert to gm hei ignighters
they are alot cheaper and work great

start a thread about it, i know someone knows the specifics

 

btw it would be a good time to dive in and do dlidlfs while your fixing you ignition

 

Anybody know the part number for it? I called my local auto parts, and they need the part number in order to assist me. There are two trailing igniters? I checked the manual again and there is only one.

What's dlidlfs William?

 

dlidlfs is putting dual leading plug direct fire coils

you need 3 igniters and 3 coils
and a few other things
search for jeff20b's how to

it is supposed to give some extra power and milage



btw there is one leading and one trailing ignihter
they are the same part #
j-109 for 81+

 

If I replace the igniters, do I have to replace the trailing and leading? In this case, I believe I have to replace both-to get rid of the misfiring and get the tach to working.

 

if you are staying with stock igniters just get the trailing first

 

i can go 100 in 1st lol

 

The tach runs off the trailing ignitor so replace that. There's no need to do anything to the leading since it's working. It's not going to give you anywhere near twice as much power as someone said but you'll notice the difference.

 

Not really. It depends what you compare it to. If you compare a GSL-SE 13B to a Mitsubishi 2.6l four banger from the same year the 13B will have close to the same amount of torque. The difference is it actually makes power up high as well.

 

Okay. It'll fix the tach issue and I may experience a bit of a power difference?

 

Ok,

DON'T buy them at an auto parts store. I think they want $187 where I work at Checker Auto Parts, which is going to be your basic figure everywhere else.

Take a trip to your local salvage yard, and see if you can find some there. If not, check ebay. In the search menu, type in "J109" or "J-109" in the "search titles and descriptions" and you'll find some.

They usually go for about $20 on ebay.

 

I have one $25

 

i provided him with a link where they sell 2 for $44...limited supplies

 

Hey.. if you are still trying to hook up a tach. I just did it on my FB. Bought a small Sunco white-face gauge at Pep Boys, and made a custom steering column mount (right in front of the stock tach). Run the green wire through the firewall onto the negative terminal of your coil. White goes to interior lighting, red goes to switched power. Super easy. The new tach is much smoother all the way to 8k (and it has an adjustable redline). Cost me $25.

Matt

 

I tested both igniters and am not getting any resistance in both.

 

yeah..you have to test them a special way. but if you plan to keep your 12A for a while, i HIGHLY recommend getting a few spare ignitors anyway

 

A special way? Have you done any business with the site you gave me? Just in case, if the igniters aren't the prob what else could it be?

 

could be the coil itself. or a loose connection...

 

Okay, I know for sure now. I switched the two-trailing to leading and leading to trailing, and the car didn't start. That means the trailing is dead and the leading is okay? Again, thanks for all of the help.

 

yup
your right on the money