JoeNoble

iTrader: (6)

I swapped out both of my rear calipers and now the one on the passenger side is dragging.

peejay

Replace it if it's dragging.

JoeNoble

iTrader: (6)

i just put it on a month ago and it had never been used. cant i just compress it?

Natey

iTrader: (19)

c-clamp and a rag to protect the piston.

JoeNoble

iTrader: (6)

ok ill give that a try but doesnt it have to turn in?

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

Nope, the rears will need to be turned in order to set the piston back in. Your local auto parts store will have a cheap tool specifically for this. Looks like a cube with a bunch of protrusions.

-billy

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

when turning the piston in, back the bleeder screw out a few turns to allow the fluid to run out of the caliper instead of trying to force it back through the system.

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Which will proceed to break off the protrusions on at least four different tools until you buy this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732

peejay

"New" does not mean "good". Probably one in four reman rear calipers I deal with are bad out of the box.

You could just compress it... and what happens the first time you apply the brakes?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

which pad is dragging, inner or outer? always grease the section of the mounting bolt that the caliper slides side to side on(floats). i do this all the time when doing front brakes.

Natey

iTrader: (19)

Sorry for the false info, I got pwned by reading comprehension and thought we were talking about the fronts.

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

I guess I take more care of my protrusions

Does look like a nice tool in the link there.

-billy

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Haha, yeah the cubes I was able to find were Chinese pot metal, you could break them off with your hands. Perhaps you had a better quality one.

legokcen

iTrader: (8)

I actually use a set of needle nose pliers. I can grip them with between a couple fingers when they are open and on the caliper and can twist.

Kentetsu

I haven't broken that little cube tool yet, and I've had it for close to two decades. But before that, I just used needle nose pliers, but that's kinda hard on the pliers if they aren't the highest quality.







.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

needle nose plyer's for the win..

:AA:

1stgenNutt

iTrader: (3)

use your teeth it seems to work better

kiss4afrog

Just go to one of the auto parts stores that loans tools and get the professional kit. With OReilly it's free if you have it back in two days. Needle nose will work but wear a glove as you're likely to put it into the hand holding the caliper. The cube sucks no matter who you get it from it's cheep and that's how it works, cheep.

Rotor13B

You can get a tool basicly like this one but it's already assembled for around ten bucks at a schuck/checker/kragen which i believe is oreilly now . I've had one for at least 6 years and still looks new after repeated use.

Slade Gunar

went to autozone, got the cube......broke the cube........ read this post got that tool at harbor on sale for 9.99. spend the money and buy it, if your working on a car with excessive wear it owns house. i couldnt even imagine trying this with a pliers on my "jersey junker" fc.....

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

needle nose pliers have worked fine for emergencies, but the tool makes it a lot easier. just make sure to back either the bleeding screw or the reservoir cap to get rid of back pressure while trying to screw it back in.

Rotarx7

iTrader: (3)

get that cube tool. makes life easier