blackb15

Ok, here is my dilema. I just bought an 85 GS with 112k for $200. The guy said it needed a fuel pump and a carb to run. I was going to just buy those items and see if it ran, but didn't want to waste my time and money on that if the engine was just in bad shape internally anyways. So, within the next couple weeks I will have $1,200 TOTAL to get it running. Should I......

Rebuild it?
Buy a new (used) engine?
Swap in a 13B (can this be done for that money?)

If you were in this situation, what would you do?

blackb15

Anyone?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

rebuild with a port.

Rotor13B

You don't even know if it runs? You can pick up a nikki carb at the junk yard for cheap and probably score a pump too, I'd go this route first. People on the forum are practically giving them away.

blackb15

Guess I could do that and just pray for the best. It is a low mileage car, but just didn't want to take the chance something might be wrong. The car has been sitting for the last eight years...

RXnos1200

iTrader: (24)

check out the FAQ page and read the posts on how to get a car running that has been sitting for years. Lots of helpful hints to get your 7 going again. Good luck.

blackb15

Thanks! Can't wait to get her on the road, it's been almost 7 years since my last FB. Couldn't pass this one up, and she's going to be a beauty when I'm done.

boriqua51371

just get a rebuild carb here on forums , check rober at rotarshack.com for a rebuild running one. and get your self a new pump. and if new need to build the motor well you know that you will have a working carb and pump. the rebuild the motor its better than buying use one. just rebuild and port and off u go.

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

8 years you're gonna have to dump and clear the fuel lines as well or you'll varnish your new carb!

aa35199

iTrader: (1)

Compression Test!!!!

blackb15

Yeah had already planned on draining the tank and probably replacing the lines before I start her up.

Can you do that without a running engine? My plan tonight is to take the fan off and clear up the front of the engine, and try to turn the engine by hand to see if it even moves.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

No need to remove the fan to turn it over by hand. If it will turn by hand, then do a compression test. If the carb has been off of the engine all this time, that's not good. Not only can the the engine rust internally, all sorts of other things can magically enter the engine.

You shouldn't need to replace the fuel lines, simply clean them out and add an inline filter just before the carb to catch the rest of the gunk that will loosen once it's up and running.

blackb15

I don't know how long it's been sitting without the carb, but it wasn't there when I picked up the car. That's why I wanted to just buy another engine and put it in, cause I don't know what's worked it's way in there over the last eight years.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

That's why you do the hand rotation, if that's good, then do the compression test. Don't write the engine off yet. Even if it doesn't last long, it will teach you about the mechanics and prepare you for a swap.

If, when turning the engine over by hand you run into something that stops it dead, rotate it in reverse. You may be able to push whatever is in the engine out through the exhaust port.

There's also the chance that the engine is now carbon locked from the volatile evaporating out of the engine. You might wish to pour some atf in the engine to soften the hardened carbon. At this point in time, it won't hurt it. I would also pull the exhaust manifold and look inside for signs of water, coolant and rust.

blackb15

Ok, so here's the plan:

Tonight I'm going to try and turn it by hand. Would you advise taking the exhaust manifold off before I do this? That way if something is in there it'll just push it out onto the ground? If it turns, good. If not I'll put some atf in it and let it soak until sunday and try again.

Honestly as long as I can get the car running and it doesn't smoke like crazy, is driveable, then it'll work until I can swap something else in.

blackb15

Ok, I just pushed down on the pulley a few times and it turned pretty good. So I'm going to take the exhaust manifold off now and check how things are inside...

mar3

iTrader: (8)

The biggest thing I'd be afraid of for a 12A that hasn't run in that many years would be the stupid O-ring rotting away at the top front of the engine. If you've got $1200 coming your way for a budget and can competently rebuild a rotary, I'd yank that thing open, replace all the gaskets and "perishables" and stick it back together...if it hasn't been running and was sealed up, all of the metal parts should be in good shape.

Kevs

I would think that if you have a good shell, no rust etc then you would be better in upgrading to a 13B as they will out last the 12A and you can get parts cheaper for them

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I would pull the engine and tear it apart and go from there. If its a low milage engine it might be ok and you can get away with a simple rebuild, BUT as its been sitting for 8 years, it might have some issues. But I would go ahead and locate a Nikki and a new fuel pump and at least try and get it going first to see. Might not need a thing but some cleaning up and some new fuel.

blackb15

That's the plan. The engine was pretty much sealed the whole time, the only thing "open" was the intake because there was no carb on it. I'm carb hunting this week and will buy a fuel pump too. My list right now:

Carburator
Fuel pump
Intake Mani gasket
Radiator
Alternator
Battery
Plugs

Also, does anyone have detailed pics of their engine bay so I can see what wiring I need to have? Not sure if it's all there. Thanks!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you haven't downloaded the online FSMs and carb manual, now is the time. The link is in my sig line and here is an additional one, which can be found in the FAQS.

http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual
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