joe84se

I just got an 84 gsl-se, and it is spittin pretty bad when I punch it. Is there a certain brand of spark plug that works better than other, or does it not really make a difference.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The problem may not stem from spark plugs. Look at injectors too.

Well since you asked, Racing Beat recommends the stock NGK BR9EQ-14 for highway and the slightly hotter BR8EQ-14 for city. The BR8EQ-14 are stock in the carbed 12A models.

When I upgrade the ignition in my older carbed 4 port 13Bs, I usually go with BR8EQ-14 in trailing because it's still stock running through the distributor. The leading is upgraded to direct fire which allows the use of 2nd gen leading BUR7EQ. These plugs require higher voltage to spark reliably so if you want to use them in a 1st gen, it's best to upgrade the igniton to direct fire just like the 2nd gen, or similar.

Some have gotten away with the 2nd gen plugs fired through the cap, but the engine must be in good condition because they can foul more easily with lower voltages. I'd highly recommend you get a set of four BR8EQ-14 and probably some new plug wires. Inspect the inside of the cap and condition of the rotor and replace if they look bad. Ypu'll need to order the plugs because local autop parts stores don't carry them anymore. Stay away from autolites, champions, splitfire, AC delco etc. If you can find Nippondenso for 1st gens, go for it, but I don't know the model number.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

only use ngk.
i think the fsm tells the exact plug #.

clbsinvaders

I ordered NGK BR9EQ14's...as per FSM and forum recommendations for the 13B

bliffle

Well, I've also used Autolite 2526 (hot) and 2626 (cool) plugs with great success, but I just use my 7s for DD. I started trying the 2626s a couple years ago upon recommendation of one of the other members that they were good for starting flooded engines. While the OEM BR9EQ14 NGKs have 4 ground electrodes, the 2626 and 2526 have an annular single piece ground electrode which amounts, sorta, to an infinite number of electrodes. The spark has more opportunities to fire properly. Of course they can't be re-gapped, but who does that anyway, anymore? Autolites are also about half price.

I'm going to switch back to NGKs just for comparison purposes, probably BR8EQ14s all around. But I haven't had any problem with the Autolites.

Any unusual plug MUST be measured to make sure the electrode doesn't clip the apex seal! Otherwise you can blow the seals.

85 FB

I don't know their part number, but they are NGKs, and I order them from Olympus Import Auto Parts in my area. They're the ONLY NGKs available for the car, and are recognized by the 4 prongs on the head. I don't pay attention to the part number because it's only one listing from Olympus.

Go with NGKs.

RXn407

the plug will say. dont go w/ the br8 if your not 12a. i think urs are the br9. but check and definately go with ngk.