hatemy7

Well whats up guys, well my brother picked up and 84 first gen rx7 yesterday and wants to make it run 11's.

he has a s5 13b that he is rebuilding as we speak, but should he large street port or what?

what kind of carb kit and what ever you guys think that he will need, thanks a lot once again for all the info

jshiz

iTrader: (4)

turbo

yetterben

300 shot of n20 lol thats a tough order to fill my man!

hatemy7

no turbo

StaticX27

iTrader: (2)

You can start with things like lightened rotors, tuning, that should get you up there.

hatemy7

Well I also have a gsl se engine just laying around, what I told him that he can also do is to rebuild that engine and use the s5 rotors and go with a large street port and tune it, to see what it can do

Whizbang

gearing + traction

hatemy7

what kind of gearing can I use.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Big bridge or PP. And I mean big. Then lighten the hell out of everything.

hatemy7

Bridge port? but what kind of carburator kit can I run? with that

pinoyremix

i would say weber 48 ida

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

A V8. lol..anyway it will be a tough order to fill without boost.

Take a look here. It is a newer section, so there isn't that many posts, but it is dedicated to N/A setups.

https://www.rx7club.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-forum-220/

hatemy7

thanx guys...

I apologise if I am asking stupid questions but I really want know what are my options and what not, but once again I appreciate your opinions.

Kentetsu

All you really need are really, really, deep pockets and the lack of a significant other.

You might want to check out the race section. They have a dedicated drag racing page there... Then you can start reading up on what others have done to get there. Good luck.

cr7684

iTrader: (42)

I don't know if this will help but I would say you need to know how much money & time your willing to spend! It will be hard to build an 11sec car with $4000 & two weeks and I know you did NOT THAT. If all motor is what your looking for PP is the way to go!!!

hatemy7

^ thank you sir

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

It's not a stupid question. I guess your bro is going to ask himself why he needs to run 11s all-motor (real racing events or just to brag to his buddies) and how much time/money he is willing to invest to reach that goal. I don't care much for V8 swaps, but if you only care about numbers down the 1/4 mile, the V8 swap is going to be the easiest way to do it (especially if you are going for all-motor).

Your bro just got the car. He should spend some time and enjoy the car as-is and re-think his goals. They are a lot of fun even if they are not all that fast. If it were me, I would do:

- suspension upgrades
- braking
- full exhaust (RB, Mindtrain, etc.)
- streetport (if rebuilding)
- upgrade carb (Weber or Sterling)
etc.

This would make for a fun street car. If he still needs more speed, a turbo would be a nice addition. Also, weight reduction is quite helpful for any type of racing and is free in general (until you start replacing body panels w/ composite parts).

hatemy7

well money isnt going to be problem for him, he does real good for himself ( attorney) but most likely Il be doing all the work.
I would like to do Bridge port but, how hard would that be for tunning with a carb?

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

4 Rotor

StaticX27

iTrader: (2)

Find someone with experience in tuning carbs and you should be fine. Most of the guys out there haven't even seen a carb much less worked on one.

Basically what people are saying is true, lighten everything up as much as you can and go that route. Strip your interior, fiber glass body panels, rip out the a/c, lines. You'll find also you can drop a few pounds by redoing alot of the wiring in your car. Then hit up the gym and lose 20lbs. I find it funny when I see 300lbs guys going to a CF hood to lose 10 lbs off the car, when a month or two of dieting or working out hard would be way more weight reduction than a carbon fiber hood, and its cheaper! (I paid $300 for a 3 year gym membership ^^).

Some may even recommend dumping the stock seats and getting a fiber glass backed bucket seat, since that's a significant drop in weight as well. Basically if you're looking to hit 11 seconds, your best bet is just to strip down the car to where it looks like a theft recovery, then do your basic bolt on engine mods, build up your block with lightened rotors, stronger seals, etc and increase your rev limit. From there, you have alot of options with tuning, but plan on spending close to $10k on a properly built motor, then save another 2-3k for a ECU with an impressive tune.

Basically, rotaries really aren't that different from pistons, you're still going through the same motions as a piston engine in an N/A build, just doing it in a slightly different way. Pistons you start by boring out to a larger compression, forged high-compression pistons, stronger head gasket, more aggressive cams, porting, etc in terms of your engine, then you're doing all your piping to maximize your flow: intake manifold, exhaust manifold, throttle body, intake, exhaust piping, injectors and fuel system in general. There are alot of parts you can upgrade to achieve your result, and your lawyer bro probably has thick enough pockets to do it.

Oh yea, and don't forget all the other stuff you need to upgrade to handle the power: suspension (coilovers, sway bars, end links, etc etc), wider and lighter wheels, brakes, lighting (if you still want this streetable), clutch, flywheel, reinforced tranny, lightened drive shaft, all stuff that can help you get a good chunk of power as well, just because you're able to translate engine power to wheel power a little smoother. Don't forget to make sure you have everything you need. Even gauges are useful, as you're pushing your engine to it's limit, you want to make sure you can monitor what your car is doing and making sure it's still in nice running order. Steering wheels are even useful compared to stock just to adjust the motions of your hands. Harnesses can keep you in your seat better. I mean all kinds of little bullshit we all forget about or take for granted. Basically go look at a full on race car and see what they have in there. Talk to the mechanics and the drivers and ask them why they have those things in there. Most of the time, they're willing to talk and share information as long as you're not being annoying. But dont' let anyone fool you into thinking that all you need is power to have an 11 second car, there's a whole world of other stuff out there you need.

Its alot of work, and alot of time, money and research, but its a completely realistic goal if you're willing to go to the extreme to do it. Just make sure you're not forgetting anything :P

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

At least 200whp which can be done with a street port. at least 8" slicks and at least 4.44 gears should get you into 11.9 range if you know how to drive and you gut the car down to 2100 lbs. I'm talking at least 1.6 60fts and you should run 11.9's

hatemy7

^ there we go, that is what I am talking about, good info

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I don't think this is possible with 200whp.

If your brother is an attorney, and money is not an issue - then I would start with
a faster car to begin with.

A 1st Gen FB is plenty of fun without a lot of horsepower. Has he (or you) ever been in
an true and tested 11 Second Car? 12 second? 13 second?

Unless you are so used to true high speed and high horsepower that 12 seconds is just downright boring... I would rethink the whole thing.

Also, to do those times in a normally aspirated car is annoying, loud, hot, and
downright masochistic to enjoy on the street. It's not easy to get an 11 second
FB even with turbo swaps.

A simple turbo swap will make the car run like it was meant to from the factory.
Even a blow-through setup will yield some nice HP, and decent times.

Please take the time to go through the archives, see other posts, and possibly meet
other FB owners in your area. You really shouldn't make decisions on
something like this untill you have at least experienced some of the different
options available to you.

TeamSMS

I could be wrong but....Kevin (pretty sure thats his name) at Rotary Resurrection told me that you cant use s4/s5 rotating assembly in a gsl-se block.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

you can. I have s s4 rotating assmebly in a street ported GSL-SE block. I think it could be done in a totally gutted bare bones race car with 200whp. I know there are a few guys in NJ running bridgeport 12a's running in the low 11's. Remember too that Jesus Padilla runs 9.8's with a perrifial ported 13b making 330whp. It's all about big gears. I saw a bone stock GSL-SE with 4.88's run a 14.2 Stock tires intake, exhaust, and everything stock but the gears. The se only made 140 FWHP so it maybe put 110 to the wheels. I've got a video of a guy with a full interior FB with 9" slicks and a 13b bridgeport running a 10.8 n/a 13b bridge that shouldn't be making anymore than 300whp.