What is the difference between a GSL and GSL-SE
03-28-03, 01:22 AM
#26
aheadau
During my travels tonight, I happened into a hardware store and piled high at the exit were big bags of (I hope I remember it correctly) POTASIUM chloride, and was used in water softners.
I too have dreamed of running at Bonneville!
The trick with the handbrake was to make the wheel THINK it had some traction. I once watched a guy "burn" through the ice and he almost got it, out with much smelly smoke, until BANG! the tire blew. He then was stuck AND had a flat!
Back in the "day", while others were doing donuts in the parking lot, I practiced doing 360s, while maintaining a forward direction.
What was this thread about again???
I too have dreamed of running at Bonneville!
The trick with the handbrake was to make the wheel THINK it had some traction. I once watched a guy "burn" through the ice and he almost got it, out with much smelly smoke, until BANG! the tire blew. He then was stuck AND had a flat!
Back in the "day", while others were doing donuts in the parking lot, I practiced doing 360s, while maintaining a forward direction.
What was this thread about again???
03-28-03, 07:27 AM
#27
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This thread has been hijacked by the chemistry geeks! 
Man, I almost miss my chem courses. I once made tri-nitrous iodide in the lab... and almost got expelled once the prof found out.
*for the uninitiated, TNI is a moderately unstable explosive that packs a pretty nice punch without being that bad.
At least I think it was tri-nitrous iodide...
BrewerBob, care to help me out?
Man, I almost miss my chem courses. I once made tri-nitrous iodide in the lab... and almost got expelled once the prof found out.
*for the uninitiated, TNI is a moderately unstable explosive that packs a pretty nice punch without being that bad.
At least I think it was tri-nitrous iodide...
BrewerBob, care to help me out?
03-28-03, 11:24 AM
#28
Got Boost?
Lol, tri-nitrous iodide...... contact explosive, that stuff blows if you look at it wrong. Makes a good practical joke if used safely too, scares the crap out of people.
03-28-03, 12:38 PM
#29
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Carry some cat litter in the back for when you get stuck in the snow/ice. Stuff works great, but make sure it isn't already used cat litter! No seriously, this works. Just don't let it spill out in the back while transporting a cat!
And the LSD issue- I figured all you guyz wanting LSDs were all on LSD. I mean, you were wanting the extra traction because you have hot engines and you drag race. I like being able to slid the back end of my seven out in corners with only its measly stock 12a output. the only advantage rear discs have over drums ona 1st gen= easier to change pads.
And the LSD issue- I figured all you guyz wanting LSDs were all on LSD. I mean, you were wanting the extra traction because you have hot engines and you drag race. I like being able to slid the back end of my seven out in corners with only its measly stock 12a output. the only advantage rear discs have over drums ona 1st gen= easier to change pads.
03-28-03, 04:35 PM
#30
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Originally posted by BRealistic
Carry some cat litter in the back for when you get stuck in the snow/ice. Stuff works great, but make sure it isn't already used cat litter!
Carry some cat litter in the back for when you get stuck in the snow/ice. Stuff works great, but make sure it isn't already used cat litter!
Last edited by BrewerBob; 03-28-03 at 04:44 PM.
03-28-03, 04:38 PM
#31
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Originally posted by peejay
I've never once got a RWD car stuck using the way I was taught. I was also taught to slide cars around. My stepdad's mentality was: don't bother trying to maintain traction, since it is futile, so you might as well learn how to control a car when it is sliding so you are comfortable *when* traction is lost.
I've never once got a RWD car stuck using the way I was taught. I was also taught to slide cars around. My stepdad's mentality was: don't bother trying to maintain traction, since it is futile, so you might as well learn how to control a car when it is sliding so you are comfortable *when* traction is lost.
You may not be able to keep traction ALL the time but if you can't then you are going too fast anyway. Unless it's an empty parking lot filled with orange cones!!
03-28-03, 04:40 PM
#32
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Originally posted by GtoRx7
You guys really know your salt!! I would just like a chance to drive on the Salt Flats for a few hours and see how fast my car will really go On a side note, I seem to enjoy my GS beater in winter due to its awesome drifting around corners in the snow(if done with some good momentum). But in the warm dry or wet weather I'll pull out the Gs(L-SE) widebody, a limited slip and disc bakes helps tremedously in hard driving. And even though the stock lsd is a 2-way limited slip, and takes some good driving to control, once your used to it they are the best. As for the brakes, I've faded too many drums after stopping from 85 more than 3 times, the discs haul down time after time from 100 plus going into a tight exit ramp 
Also for anyone wondering ; if you have a pre-84 rx7 gsl or gs you cannot upgrade to GSL-SE without some rear link modifications (the Lower link is positioned different)
If I were you, and had it possible, I'd agree with everyone else, go GSL-SE!!! I love my conversion.
You guys really know your salt!! I would just like a chance to drive on the Salt Flats for a few hours and see how fast my car will really go
On a side note, I seem to enjoy my GS beater in winter due to its awesome drifting around corners in the snow(if done with some good momentum). But in the warm dry or wet weather I'll pull out the Gs(L-SE) widebody, a limited slip and disc bakes helps tremedously in hard driving. And even though the stock lsd is a 2-way limited slip, and takes some good driving to control, once your used to it they are the best. As for the brakes, I've faded too many drums after stopping from 85 more than 3 times, the discs haul down time after time from 100 plus going into a tight exit ramp Also for anyone wondering ; if you have a pre-84 rx7 gsl or gs you cannot upgrade to GSL-SE without some rear link modifications (the Lower link is positioned different)If I were you, and had it possible, I'd agree with everyone else, go GSL-SE!!! I love my conversion.
03-28-03, 04:43 PM
#33
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Originally posted by pratch
This thread has been hijacked by the chemistry geeks!
At least I think it was tri-nitrous iodide...
BrewerBob, care to help me out?
This thread has been hijacked by the chemistry geeks!
At least I think it was tri-nitrous iodide...
BrewerBob, care to help me out?
I don't know. I couldn't even make decent potasium nitrate. Key ingrediate in gun powder. My cousin walked into a drug store in NY and bought it over the counter. The south is so repressed.
03-29-03, 06:56 PM
#34
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Base model has basic things as well as a 12A carbed motor (Nikki carb). It represented a total of about 105 horses. Nothing too fancy (ie. sun roof, ect.)
GSL has much more to offer. It too possesses the 12A carbed motor (Nikki carb). Again, the horsepower is about the same to the base model (105). It has a sunroof, leather, good sound system (for back then anyways, LOL).
GSL-SE is the top of the line. They were only made in 1984-1985 and sported a 13B Fuel Injected System. They produced about 135 horses and had leather, sunroof, ect.
What I have to say about rotaries is that they can REV LIKE HELL. Regardless of what engine, 12A, 13B, 20B, no other piston one can match it in the ways of amount of horsepower per pound. Also, what piston engine can run full out at 7,000 or 8,000 RPM for long periods of time without exploding? Not to many. Damn, I love rotaries.
GSL has much more to offer. It too possesses the 12A carbed motor (Nikki carb). Again, the horsepower is about the same to the base model (105). It has a sunroof, leather, good sound system (for back then anyways, LOL).
GSL-SE is the top of the line. They were only made in 1984-1985 and sported a 13B Fuel Injected System. They produced about 135 horses and had leather, sunroof, ect.
What I have to say about rotaries is that they can REV LIKE HELL. Regardless of what engine, 12A, 13B, 20B, no other piston one can match it in the ways of amount of horsepower per pound. Also, what piston engine can run full out at 7,000 or 8,000 RPM for long periods of time without exploding? Not to many. Damn, I love rotaries.
03-30-03, 11:52 PM
#35
All 84-85's if its a GS, GSL, or GSL-SE have the same lower link positions. I was worried when I first did the swap, as I heard only the GSL-SE got the rear end mods, but I found out they all mount the same on the four links. I think mazda of course saved money this way by giving a across the board changes. Even in the front frame rails, there are holes tapped for a front mount oil cooler that the GSL-SE had. So you can totally convert to GSL-SE if you wanted (suspension and brakes) Of course if you go with a 13b swap, the GSL-SE has a different sub frame for the motor , but you dont need that part if you get the racing beat 12a to 13b motor mount. And all 84-85's got the bigger bearings, and larger driveshaft flange. One thing I dont recommend is to convert a 84-85 from a automatic to a 5-speed!! The rear transmission mounts are about 4 inches further back, and changing hang pedals was a pain in my ***! Man, I've switched too many things on my car, all in the name of a very soild body. Oh well, I like it now.
03-31-03, 03:15 AM
#36
ROTOR THAT PUSSY BITCH
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I've seen GSL-SE without complete leather... Even though mine is all around leather... the 84-85 GSL had a LSD with 3.9 while the GSL-SE had a 4.079.... but the axle are the same...(so i heard).... GSL-SE only came out 84-85... Best 1st gen to have..... It has a 680cc fuel injectors that most 2nd gen owners want... small car with nice power
03-31-03, 12:35 PM
#37
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Originally posted by RixRotary7
What I have to say about rotaries is that they can REV LIKE HELL. Regardless of what engine, 12A, 13B, 20B, no other piston one can match it in the ways of amount of horsepower per pound. Also, what piston engine can run full out at 7,000 or 8,000 RPM for long periods of time without exploding?
What I have to say about rotaries is that they can REV LIKE HELL. Regardless of what engine, 12A, 13B, 20B, no other piston one can match it in the ways of amount of horsepower per pound. Also, what piston engine can run full out at 7,000 or 8,000 RPM for long periods of time without exploding?
03-31-03, 11:44 PM
#42
FD > FB > FC
there have been many threads about this before but:
S- sport; base model with zilch for options
GS- grand sport; had a few options like a/c, sun roof, power mirriors, better stereo, and much better wheels. the S ones are FUGLY.
GSL- grand sport luxury; had many options like leather, power steering, power windows, rear disc brakes with limited slip diff, and other things.
GSL-SE- grand sport luxury special edition; had every thing standard. The only things optional were leather, and power steering. (I think) Larger brakes, and much more common bolt pattern. Rear discs were vented. Also came with the FI 13b motor.
S- sport; base model with zilch for options
GS- grand sport; had a few options like a/c, sun roof, power mirriors, better stereo, and much better wheels. the S ones are FUGLY.
GSL- grand sport luxury; had many options like leather, power steering, power windows, rear disc brakes with limited slip diff, and other things.
GSL-SE- grand sport luxury special edition; had every thing standard. The only things optional were leather, and power steering. (I think) Larger brakes, and much more common bolt pattern. Rear discs were vented. Also came with the FI 13b motor.
04-01-03, 09:53 AM
#43
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
Now we are getting somewhere. Thanx for all the info guys. Now I know I have the GS not the base model (A/C in mine until I rip it out 
) and I need the rear from a GSL. No sense in swapping everything to the 14" GSL-SE setup.
) and I need the rear from a GSL. No sense in swapping everything to the 14" GSL-SE setup.
04-01-03, 05:31 PM
#44
FD > FB > FC
actually there is alot of sence in going to the GSL-SE setup.
You get vented rear disc brakes instead of the solid ones the GSL has. The brakes are bigger all around. The sway bars are bigger. And the bolt pattern is MUCH more common. Plus the SE has lug nuts instead of teh lug bolts like all the other FB's.
You get vented rear disc brakes instead of the solid ones the GSL has. The brakes are bigger all around. The sway bars are bigger. And the bolt pattern is MUCH more common. Plus the SE has lug nuts instead of teh lug bolts like all the other FB's.
04-02-03, 09:16 AM
#45
I luv sheep&dead hookers
Thread Starter
But you are talking about a car that weighs what 2300lbs? How much bigger do the brakes really need to be? A common wheel size would be nice but I'd rather have the lower center of gravity, beside the stock rims are fairly light anyway. As for the suspension, none of that is staying stock anyway. I'm going for the upgrades on all of that.
04-02-03, 10:53 AM
#46
Originally posted by Manntis
About the thrad topic: http://www.rotorhead.ca/ref_1984.php
About getting going in snow: Use 2nd gear instead of first, and ease onto the throttle. Sometimes the snow is so deep burning down to the pavement is impossible.
As to open vs. LSD, sure only one wheel spins with an open diff - the one wheel using all your power and not doing a danged thing. With LSD you have both wheels spinning and have a greater chance that one will actually obtain traction.
Of course, the ideal is a TorSen, which sends power to the wheel with the MOST traction, automatically.
About the thrad topic: http://www.rotorhead.ca/ref_1984.php
About getting going in snow: Use 2nd gear instead of first, and ease onto the throttle. Sometimes the snow is so deep burning down to the pavement is impossible.
As to open vs. LSD, sure only one wheel spins with an open diff - the one wheel using all your power and not doing a danged thing. With LSD you have both wheels spinning and have a greater chance that one will actually obtain traction.
Of course, the ideal is a TorSen, which sends power to the wheel with the MOST traction, automatically.
Once one wheel is getting 0 traction they function just like an open dif
04-03-03, 10:40 PM
#47
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by BrewerBob
But you are talking about a car that weighs what 2300lbs? How much bigger do the brakes really need to be? A common wheel size would be nice but I'd rather have the lower center of gravity, beside the stock rims are fairly light anyway. As for the suspension, none of that is staying stock anyway. I'm going for the upgrades on all of that.
But you are talking about a car that weighs what 2300lbs? How much bigger do the brakes really need to be? A common wheel size would be nice but I'd rather have the lower center of gravity, beside the stock rims are fairly light anyway. As for the suspension, none of that is staying stock anyway. I'm going for the upgrades on all of that.
Its just there are so many pluses for the SE suspension, I just love it. I cant wait till my car runs so I can see how well these brakes work.
04-04-03, 01:09 AM
#48
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Originally posted by Mark S
Torsen's are great in the dry, but in the snow, they suck.
Once one wheel is getting 0 traction they function just like an open dif
Torsen's are great in the dry, but in the snow, they suck.
Once one wheel is getting 0 traction they function just like an open dif
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