what carb should i get
08-11-08, 02:46 PM
#1
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what carb should i get
I have a stock 83 gls and I've been having carberator problems and can't figure it out so im just going to get a new one. I was wondering what would be my best bet on a new carb? or should i just stick with the nikki? which one would give me best preformance and durrability?
08-11-08, 03:03 PM
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Nice question....I also have a stock port 81 and i wonder which carburetor is the best for my setup?
I search the web and i found in the racing beat webpage a combo kit with a manifold and a weber carburator fo 800 bucks aprox.
Is this a good combo for a stock port?
I search the web and i found in the racing beat webpage a combo kit with a manifold and a weber carburator fo 800 bucks aprox.
Is this a good combo for a stock port?
08-11-08, 03:13 PM
#3
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I'd say stick with the carb that was designed for the motor. Its no slacker when it comes to performance.
You can send it to Sterling for a standard rebuild, or you can have him modify it if you're into racing. Either way, he does outstanding work and there is no better authority on these carbs.
www.sterlingmetalworks.com
If you're curious about how well the modified Sterlings work, just check out some of my videos.
.
You can send it to Sterling for a standard rebuild, or you can have him modify it if you're into racing. Either way, he does outstanding work and there is no better authority on these carbs.
www.sterlingmetalworks.com
If you're curious about how well the modified Sterlings work, just check out some of my videos.
.
08-11-08, 03:32 PM
#4
Yeah, shutup kid.
Do what he said ^ The nikki works great once all the emissions crap is stripped off(or working properly). I've had a weber and the only thing I liked better was how easy it is to change jets, it made a bit more top end power, but lost a decent bit of low end.
08-11-08, 03:35 PM
#5
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
you need to post some pics of your new setup..
oh and my vote is for a carb kit from rotaryshack
08-11-08, 06:21 PM
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Alot depends on what you do. The IDA is great carb for street port or bigger easy to tune parts all over the place. The Niki is a nice carb when stripped and rebuilt right. The mukini 44 nice carb for a 12A stock or street port I was somewhat happy with mine. Dellorto DHLA 48 so far has been the best carb I have used but finding parts can be a chalege but will work well on anything from a stock 12A to a street ported 6 port 13B just by changing the jets. Tha holley is another good carb like the IDA parts are easy to find but getting a off the shelf holley to work on a rotary will take some work but holley are user friendly and can be had in almost any size you whould need. The OER and DCOE sidedraft carbs are very nice but for the money I think there are better carbs out there. The weber IDF is another great carb and with a choke which the IDA does not have makes it a little bit better choice in cold weither. The duel weber setup is rare and from what i have heard kinda hard to tune but My favorate setup I havnt tried yet. Sorry i was bored at work and these are my opitions.
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08-12-08, 01:49 AM
#9
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+1 for 48 IDA or Sterling if you want a nice bump in power. Edelbrock's Thunder Series carbs are good, too. Just gotta get a Racing Beat manifold and a 1" spacer to get it to clear the water pump housing.
08-12-08, 03:02 PM
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For a stock port engine that is driven on the street, get your carb modified by Sterling. I have been driving Webers on the street for many years, and in the winter time, I really wish I had a Sterling carb.
08-12-08, 03:59 PM
#11
Yeah, shutup kid.
I've had 2 nikki's and a weber 48 sidedraft from you, all of them worked perfect. I still have one nikki, setup and tuned for a stock 12a with TII turbo, that'll be for sale soon since I'm going with fuel injection now.
08-16-08, 06:01 PM
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The Sterling Nikki remains the most versatile performance carburetor available for the Mazda rotary. It flows 465 cfm, and the emulsion system is modified to accept Holley air bleeds. The secondary prompting of the Sterling now (as of '07) can be easily changed from mechanical back to vacuum operation by simply flipping an easily accessed piece of modified linkage around (they're sent out with mech-secs). This requires only an Allen key and 2-4 minutes.
Admittedly, changing Nikki fuel jets is a bit of a pain, but once you've dialed it in, you should be able to make subtle fine tuning changes via the emulsion system.
...Wonder how long it will take before Robert reports me to RxDoctor.
Admittedly, changing Nikki fuel jets is a bit of a pain, but once you've dialed it in, you should be able to make subtle fine tuning changes via the emulsion system.
...Wonder how long it will take before Robert reports me to RxDoctor.
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