ratboy

iTrader: (1)

Im gonna have to do everything you are with my repu soon - my PB is starting to rattle a bit. I see at least 2 HarborFreight stores in Las Vegas and I know a few people have been able to use their bearing puller with some grinding/mods. I know if I try grinding out the bearing Im bound to **** up something....

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5469

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I had to use a dremel on my REPU. The parts store puller didn't work. This was like what ten years ago now?

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I've never even heard of that store. Thank you! I'll go in the morning. I hear ya on screwing something up with the dremel.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

IMHO that puller from Harbor freight is a piece of sh**!


If you have a Autozone near you try them. I believe they have a tool loaner program.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I hear you Doc. That harbor freight tool sucks *****. I don't want to chance it with the dremel. I'm just going to order the 120 dollar tool from mazdatrix. I'm tired of cursing for right now . I can wait a few more days without my car before I go crazy. Got family to lend me their car for work. I'm glad i'm going through this experience though. I'm definately learning from it and I wouldn't be able to do any of the work I've done on my car without this forum and you guys . Thanks everybody! I'll keep you guys updated on how everything goes in the next few days.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Got the new tool in today and got the pilot bearing out in one minute. Worked like a charm.

Still haven't got an answer to what kind of grease I'm supposed to use for the pilot and throwout bearing . Neo synthetic grease good, like the kind on mazdatrix?

http://mazdatrix.com/q-supply.htm

bliffle

Hooray!

Thanks for reporting back on that m'trix tool.

As for grease, I'd prolly use what m'trix recommends: those guys are pretty experienced. Lacking a recommendation I'd prolly use some silicon grease.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

No problem. New bearings are in, and the new clutch kit is on. Taking a dinner break. Should be done tonight, i'll let you guys know.

bliffle

Please detail out the method you use, and the problems you solve, to re-install the transmission when you are done.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I'm trying the thing doc said. Buy some bolts that bolt the tranny to the engine. Cut the heads off the bolts for the tranny to guide on it. I got the tranny on halfway but just won't go on all the way. I'm ready to put a bomb on my car. This is pissing me off. I know the clutch is aligned straight. I think it's the input shaft that just won't go in.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I crushed the edge of the splines on my disc because I failed to rotate the tranny to sync up the splines. I normally swap engines way before a clutch job is needed so never drop a tranny to change a clutch. So since the tranny is always in place, all I need to do to align up the splines is throw a 19mm socket on the main drive pulley bolt, and rotate the engine until the splines line up. Then the engine cinches up to the bellhousing like a square peg in a round hole. Well, you know what I mean.

Anyway this most recent clutch job was simply to swap flywheels from a light steel to aluminum. I dropped the tranny for this. So what did I do to align the clutch splines? Tried and true 19mm socket. Guess what? It didn't work. And you know something? I had an old yoke from a dead driveshaft sitting in the back of the tranny keeping the synchromesh in (oil), which I could have easily turned by hand, but I just didn't think about it.

I'd rotate the engine, and since there was no actual drivesahft in place to keep the tranny guts from moving, the yoke would just sit there and spin, never allowing the splines to align. I'd crank the engine, tighten a couple long bolts, crank a little more, tighten a little more and so on. I started hearing these funny metalic creaking noises and knew something wasn't right.

It was getting dark and starting to rain so I just left the tranny propped up on a scizzor jack and called it a day.

I felt like a failure not knowing what had gone wrong. I had to wait two days before I could get back to work (due to rain) to drop the tranny again and correct things. Then the clutch hydraulics went out. lol

bliffle

That's a sad story, Jeff.

So you could have just reached around to the back of the transmission and rotated the output shaft until the input shaft splines aligned with the internal splines of the clutch disk (assuming the gears were engaged).

IIRC, the clutch plate ID has a slight bevel and so does the transmission input shaft, that should help them mate a little.

It seems so simple but so many clutch jobs falter during transmission re-install that it's astonishing. If humans had this much trouble mating the human race would die out!

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the advice. I wish I had a spare driveshaft, but I don't. I'll just keep trying at it. I have been reaching to the back of the tranny and pinning the shaft with my fingers but it's hard as hell.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Check the angle of the edge of the bell housing to the back of the engine. It has to be parallel or the input shaft will not go in and binds on the pilot bearing. The splines will line themselves up if you jiggle the tranny as you push it home. This should all be done by hand, no cranking down bolts to get it to go home. Slow and easy does it. Use jacks on the engine and the tranny too. Holding the tranny in the correct position is almost impossible to do accurately. You will know when it slips in. It will slide in easy and be almost all the way mated to the engine. Then throw all the bolts in and hand tighten.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

Alright guys. Well, the problem is that I can get the tranny somewhat parallel with the engine but the rear of the tranny where you put the the shifter in isn't even close to where its supposed to go. That metal thing holding the rubber boot on is blocking the tranny from me trying to position onto the engine.

I need suggestions. I've been working on trying to get the tranny back in for over 4 hours(seems like) including yesterday and this morning. I'm thinking of going to get 3 more jackstands and another hydraulic jack. I've done this whole thing so far with 1 jackstand and hydraulic jack to give me more space. I don't know. I'm ready to try anything to get this in to place.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i don't know if you have it in yet or not :P, it took me and my brother (he was just helping me with the jack and a bit of the pushing while i aligned it) 1.5 hrs just to get it in. we used the old jiggle and push method lol, we don't have anything fancy so we were on our backs bench pressing it in, after much cursing, sweat, tears, and having to hold the tranny in place cuz the damn jack slipped from underneath, i reached back and turned the tail end of the tranny just a bit and just jiggled and push and bam it was in, quickly bolted it in from underneath just in case it decided to come alive and walk away from the engine lol.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

the only thing i can recommend is setting the shifter on neutral and slowly lifting the tail as the tranny goes in, the reason you should leave it in neutral is to allow the metal to push the shifter back and forth as it needs to go in. you'll realize that as soon as the bell goes in, the tail should just be a matter of jacking the tranny up all the way.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

lol, I'm trying that method too. I've tried with my brother helping but thats when the tranny slipped and fell on my pointer finger. Now i'm hurting, cursing and I can't get it in. I don't get how you guys get it in so quick . The rear of the tranny doesn't line up anywhere near the shifter would be.

ratboy

iTrader: (1)

I hate to anger the Doc with another Harbor Freight suggestion but I picked up their transmission jack on sale for ~30$. It made a rear end swap between 2 SE's a breeze.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

...hmm...i didn't have to do this because the way my car was as soon as i dropped my tranny the front end of the engine rocked up just a bit which allowed me to make it align the bell of the tranny without having to raise the tail that much...don't know if it makes sense.....anyways what i'm getting around to is if you can perhaps jack the front end of the engine just a bit to make the rear drop down and allowing you to install the tranny at an angle then once the tranny is in and atleast a couple of bolts to make sure it doesn't fall back on you, letting the front of the engine drop then jacking the rear of the tranny back up it should fall right into place, just make sure the shifter's in neutral so that it has some free play as it goes in.

twinkletoes

iTrader: (17)

I get what you mean now. Makes total sense. I can't start again till around 5 though. I'll try it out and report back.

bliffle

That's what makes a Transmission Jack useful: you can jack it up with the long handle from behind while rolling it on its wheels toward the engine. I paid $20 for mine at Kragens. And $20 for a pair of jackstands. then you can use your scissor jack to work the front of the engine up a little in order to drop the back of the engine down a little and improve the insertion angle.

Druken

I don't know about you guys but this is the way that I did it yesterday and it seemed to work.

1) Laid the engine on my creeper (used a block of wood to support the back of the oil pan)
2) Support the transmission with jack stands
3) Removed the bolts and pried them apart
4) Rolled the engine forward and separated them
5) Do what you got to do
6) Roll the engine back towards the transmission
7) Realign the engine and tranny (sometimes the tranny or engine will move when working on them)
8) Either have something in the back or have someone hold/push the tranny while you push the engine.
9) If you did the first 4 steps right, they should slide in quite easy... with a bit of a wiggle.
10) Re-bolt back together.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

First time I did one of these, it took me 2 evenings of cussing and sweating... and then... *zock* it just slid home like "oh, OK..."

Almost made me mad that the last bit went so easy.

Second one went a bit easier, only took about an hour's fiddling.

Just keep at it & don't give up - - it's just got to be exactly right. Don't try to line up with the bodywork; all that matters is the relationship between the engine and the tranny. The engine can move quite a bit without the tranny's rear support and weight.

Good luck.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

yeah, but that's with the engine off the car, his engine is still mounted on the car, which makes it harder man........ maybe i just got lucky on my first tranny removal/intallation, took me two days but like 5 hrs total work, that's taking my time making sure where to place things so that i don't get confused and such, tranny took me 1.5 hrs to mount it back on the engine.