RX-BOOST

iTrader: (1)

Well Rust is the name of the game again.

I'm in the process of changing out my carpet and I was planning on
taking care of the rust while it was out.
But, I found this (first photo), I've searched through the forum but haven't found anyone with the same spot or as how to go around repairing it.

Yes I can weld but, it is in a very weird spot. I would rather just clean it up and fiberglass it. or is replacement the only safe bet?

I'm going to continue looking for answers to the questions I have below but, I figured they're are some rust gurus out there with some time .

In the floor the holes have rusted out and the plugs are gone.
Is it ok to weld them all closed or should I fix them and find new plugs for them.
I am going to cover the whole floor with secondskin's Damplifier matting
so even if I fixed them they won't be much used unless I cut a whole out for them.
Any opinions?

And the rear sub-frame cross brace behind the seats has rust in it any hins on how to get to it?

Another area that I'm worried about is the spare tire holder. Inside the holes only looks rusted but when I removed my gas tank the whole underside in rusting.
I wanted to cut the whole think out and replace it with a thick flat sheet in sheet metal with a brace across it or something anyone done it?

Also the 2 holes that are in the trunk(fourth pic). I have no clue how to repair them except clean and paint. There is some heavy rust in them though so I'm not sure if paint would stop it.
I was thinking about using POR-15 since it gets good reviews here and look like a nice product.

My inside well wheels have a little rust but, only on the inside metal, there is on rust on the out side. Is it ok to clean up and paint or should I replace the metal that’s gone?

Oh and has anyone repaired the hatch weather strip holder trim? The drains were clogged and not I have a bad rust out problem there. I would like to know how you molded the metal or if you did it piece by piece.


Any other products that anyone wants to recommend?
Which brand of rust converter works the best?


Thanks, JR

Kim

I had some bad rust in the rubberseal lip too.
cut the whole thing off and replaced with new metal.
same goes with doors aso.

Use metal to replace metal, fiberglass wont stop the rusting process.
Ohh and yes use POR15, its the shizzniz


New lip, sorry, I have no "during" pictures, but its pretty straight forward if you know metalworks


Learn Lead/Tin soldering
hole from roof antenna and washernozzle


The hole in the floor should just be welded shut, I did.
The rust on the wheelwell needs to be fixed soon, its not bad but on the other side is the trailingarm-mount for the rear axle.
I can't make out the first photo, it looks like the compartment behind the firewall, right?

MontanaKid

Hey. I've had great experiences with POR15. If you've got some gnarly rust, i'd recommend getting the loose stuff off and using 15 on it. If you've got some holes you can wait for the por15 to tack up then use fiberglass filler(longstrand preferably) and put it right on top of the por15. Just make make sure you do it while it is still tacky though so it has no choice but to bond with the por15 that is bonded to the rust. Works great. For the drain holes if you don't want them or need them I would cut some shapes to fit out of aluminum sheetmetal and then por15 the drainholes if they are rusty and then use a high quality body or seam sealer to glue the aluminum on, while the por 15 is still tacky. Make sure you rough up the aluminum and clean it with laquer thinner before sealing to. I've found theses methods easy and almost never rust again if done right. To where welding is awefully hard to keep from rusting. If If the fix requires structural strength then you've pretty much got to weld. Hope this give you some Ideas. it's worked great for myself in the past.

'84-12A-GSL

I recently had all my interior out, and patched the hoels in the floor. Mine were also rusting where the factory drain plugs USED to be., and there were two square holes up by the pedals under the drivers feat. I took a angle grinder and cut/grinded out all the rust, than used BONDO's Fibreglass repair kit to cover the holes. I than sprayed the areas with rock guard (rubberized undercoating) I also pop rivited in a piece of metal inder one of the drivers seat seat mount.

RX-BOOST

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Kim for the info and to everyone else.

I'm treating everything with rust remover right now and cutting everything out tonight. Then off for some POR-15 and sheet metal tomorrow

You were right Kim the first photo is the duct entrance from the windshield wiper area. you can see the linkage through the whole. this it want caused the rest of the floor rust on the drivers side I think the drain was clogged and water sat in there till it ate through it.

It will take some time but I think I can cut and weld a nice replacement piece. I just hope here is nothing no bad behind it. O well so much for getting my car back together by next week

Also Kim I would like to know how you molded the metal for your trunk it looks very well done.

Anyone have anything to say about cutting the spare wheel holder out?

All post some pictures tomorrow to show what I cut out



Any more help is appreciated,

Thanks, JR

elwood

iTrader: (1)

As far as the holes are concerned, I second the idea of replacing metal with metal. Fiberglass will eventually crack and cause problems. The holes were there for to allow the e-coat to drain from the body during the paint process in the assembly plant. You don't need them anymore, so plug them.

As for cutting the spare tire wheel holder out -- I've done it before on a different car with good results. The problem with an RX, is that you'll lose the upper support for your fuel tank. If you don't care about this, cut away. You can make the replacement panel out of whatever you like and bolt it around the perimiter, as long as you use some sort of sealant around it to prevent leaks and galvanic corrosion. Welding in a steel piece is another good option. Bear in mind that the new panel will need to be thicker than the original to maintain a solid load floor, since you will have lost the deep drawn form of the tub, as well as the stiffening beads.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Two important points come to mind. Repair the spare tire well, it's need to support and hold the fuel tank. Whatever method used to repair the holes in the floor, treat the metal first, before installing a patch and rattle can paint ain't gonna do it.

guitardedcracker

i had some horrible rust holes straight through bolth rear wheel wells, i invested in a cheap mig wleder and fixed it up no problem

90turbo1

ouch thats hard to look at, makes me glad I found a rust free one to start with.

but take you time and do one hole at a time, preferably the less noticable ones, then you will get better as you get to the holes that you can see.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i've never had any of that rust other than the acces covers for the rear bumper shock's nuts. DEFINATLY replace the metal with new metal. clean ALL of the rust out of there and make sure your new welds are sealed and painted well, as new metal is extremely vunerable to rust.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yes definatly replace that with new metal, fiberglass is for making spoilers And take the time to really clean and seal everything up after welding in the new metal and said above, nothing worse than taking the time to replace all that rust only to have it rust a few days later....

RX-BOOST

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the input guys.

Went and bought my POR-15 with some of their cleaner too.
When went to Tractor Supply and picked-up some sheet metal.

I ran into a bit of uh problem though.
When I started to cut the bad piece out of the wheel well
the rust was all on the inside too, I started cutting more away
and I didn't find an end to it. Am I looking at cutting out the whole inside piece,
POR-15 the underneath piece and welding a whole new wheel well in?
Because this plus making the wiper thing.... I really don't want to .

Is their a different rout I should take?


Thanks, JR

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

There are 2 main layers of steel in the wheel wells, and a patch added on the outside. The way Mazda built these lays encourages moisture penetration. You will most likely find rust through out between the 2 main layers. I would preserve as much of the inside layer as possible, then cut out the outer one and form a patch for that.

I missed your earlier question about the spare tire well. The entire well can be removed and replaced by drilling out the spot welds. Check with your local autobody supplier or online and buy a spot weld drill bit. It will make welding in the replacement easier.

Kim

What i did with the lip:
I cut a piece of sheetmetal in the full length of the original lip.
Bend it into an L-shape
Cut slits in the lower part of the sheetmetal(obviously not the lip itself)
Bend it to the shape of the old lip.

Cut old lip out
Weld new lip in.
Por15
Fiberglass
Sand
Paint

Taadaaa

82transam

iTrader: (18)

As trochoid said the outer layer is the cause of the problem, get rid of that and patch the inner layer as needed.
Kim, I admire your sheet metal skills, mine are ok, but your work is damn nice looking

John64

Here's my repair, all cut out, cleaned, rest preventative and metal welded in. The top coated with undercoating in and out.

autocrash

I was going to warn you about that, but unfortunately you found it first...

...I had what I thought was a small patch of rust in the wheel wells when I bought the car, decided to take it out and just kept on digging (all the way through )

Bloody wheel wells...

...So it sounds like the general consensus is to attack wheel well rust from the outside rather than the inside?

..sorry, not much help, I know, but hey, atleast you aren't the only one dealing with it!

Matt

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Most of us have to deal with it, and yes its best to start from the outside and work your way in....

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

True, work your way in. If the inside needs a big patch, do that 1st without cutting out the other layers to maintain the general shape of the wheel well. Then do the tire side of the wells It works best if that patch is removed first, find a spot weld drill bit, makes removal much easier. It also leaves smaller holes to to weld in for the new patch.