weber setup
#1
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From: north california
weber setup
this 13B i'm putting in has an italian weber on it, and i just want to make sure i've got everything goin' correctly. Can anyone point me to a post that has this info on it, or anyone give me a quick rundown of where fuel inlet/returns are on the carb? anything i need to know about it? i've got zero experience and just wanna get it set up properly. Also, i'm still unsure of the porting that has been done to this engine, i was wondering if looking at the jetting setup on the carb could help tell me or if i should just wait until i get the engine running and can listen to it.
#6
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From: north california
with gas prices, 300 bucks would probably get me about sacramento. i'm up on the oregon coast. But yeah, back to reality, any diagrams or anything, i just need a quick reference to fuel in and fuel out lines on the carb? And, how's that 48 gonna match up if it is a street port?
#7
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From: north california
care to post a pic of your weber?
i didn't get anywhere on the last post, maybe just not asking the right way, so i was hoping i could get a few pics. of your own weber setups so i can see what ya got goin' on and can fix this up, get this bad boy drivin' again. Thanks,
HULK
HULK
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#12
89fc3sT2: Thank you. Can't beat carbs for simplicty.
boostedHULK: Yes, it is. In that picture I'm just using the stock fuel pump with no regulator. I now have a regulator, but I'm still running on the stock fuel pump. Doesn't really work very well, but it'll get me by until I can upgrade my fuel system.
boostedHULK: Yes, it is. In that picture I'm just using the stock fuel pump with no regulator. I now have a regulator, but I'm still running on the stock fuel pump. Doesn't really work very well, but it'll get me by until I can upgrade my fuel system.
#13
Are you looking for pics of Weber sidedraft (dco/dcoe) or IDA? IDA is the best route if you haven't purchased yet.
For the most part, Weber carbs don't need a return unless you have serious vapor lock problems.
For the most part, Weber carbs don't need a return unless you have serious vapor lock problems.
#14
you can run a return it helps stop vapour lock, im looking at it now but have been told you can use the fuel inlet off the orgional Nikki carb, with a Malory fuel regualtor not sure when the regulator goes (before carb or after carb)
Mark
Mark
#15
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From: north california
i just wanted to make sure that it was a returnless setup. it's an IDA not dco/dcoe, and i didn't buy it, i bought all this stuff out of a wrecked car. Engine, trans, rearend and the engine was set up this way when i got it.
#18
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From: north california
thanks for all the pics guys, great help! i saw that a couple of you still run the omp, what do you use to actuate it? i noticed it would be pretty tricky to get a shaft from the throttle down to the lever on the omp.
how does that 48ida feed your PP engine? i'm still trying to guess as to what the ports on this engine may look like. is a 48ida carb over kill for a SP?
how does that 48ida feed your PP engine? i'm still trying to guess as to what the ports on this engine may look like. is a 48ida carb over kill for a SP?
#19
I agree with Jaime Enriquez. IDA > DCO. I wish could've gotten a 48 IDA instead, but my DCOE ought to work fine for my purposes.
Nope, 48 is not overkill at all. Here's a 48 IDF on my friend's old streetported 13B:
Sorry for the odd color balance on this one.
As for the OMP, mine (as well as the one in the above pictures) is just wired open to the 9 o'clock position.
Nope, 48 is not overkill at all. Here's a 48 IDF on my friend's old streetported 13B:
Sorry for the odd color balance on this one.
As for the OMP, mine (as well as the one in the above pictures) is just wired open to the 9 o'clock position.
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