weber 45DCOE installed
#1
weber 45DCOE installed
took about 1 day.
driving impressions: gobs of power from 4k-5.5k but i feel a drop in power as it gets closer to redline.
may just need to change the jets...currently running 160 mains.
#5
sure did, they came outta the blue! lol
the car is EXTREMELY predictable now. i'm running Racing Beat springs, Tokico shocks, and the modified watts linkage.
before...the car would start to slide out and i'd go full opposite lock and still end up spinning around now the edge is in the same place, so the car is able to teeter on the edge with plenty of room left in the steering wheel.
it's really starting to come together mechanically, just looks like total ***
the car is EXTREMELY predictable now. i'm running Racing Beat springs, Tokico shocks, and the modified watts linkage.
before...the car would start to slide out and i'd go full opposite lock and still end up spinning around now the edge is in the same place, so the car is able to teeter on the edge with plenty of room left in the steering wheel.
it's really starting to come together mechanically, just looks like total ***
Trending Topics
#9
figured i would give a quick update.
startup is easy, takes one full depression of the throttle, then cranks right up.
power starts at 3,500rpm and quickly builds until 6,000rpm where it flatlines until the brick wall around 7,500. after switching main jets from 160 to 180, the problem became far more apparent, so that means i need smaller main jets.(running rich) when it's in that sweet spot between 4k and 6k, the acceleration is immense. can't wait to get it running perfectly.
the carb behavior is different from my mech. secondary nikki. the gas pedal doesn't requite near as much finesse. under decel it runs much richer(lots of backfiring) and it has a sputter under partial throttle above 3,500 rpm. the sputter goes away if you shift to a higher gear to lower the rpm, or get into the gas.
the engine note is quite different, with a much deeper throatier tone, and you can hear the carbs pulling in air when you poke the throttle.
my only questions left are what sort of timing should i be running? i have it slightly advanced via the dist. also, i lost my vacuum advance....wondering if i should reattach it to a new vacuum source or if it's ok to run it without any vacuum.
will post a few pics of the complete setup in a few mins...(the other pics were taken before i even had the car running yet)
startup is easy, takes one full depression of the throttle, then cranks right up.
power starts at 3,500rpm and quickly builds until 6,000rpm where it flatlines until the brick wall around 7,500. after switching main jets from 160 to 180, the problem became far more apparent, so that means i need smaller main jets.(running rich) when it's in that sweet spot between 4k and 6k, the acceleration is immense. can't wait to get it running perfectly.
the carb behavior is different from my mech. secondary nikki. the gas pedal doesn't requite near as much finesse. under decel it runs much richer(lots of backfiring) and it has a sputter under partial throttle above 3,500 rpm. the sputter goes away if you shift to a higher gear to lower the rpm, or get into the gas.
the engine note is quite different, with a much deeper throatier tone, and you can hear the carbs pulling in air when you poke the throttle.
my only questions left are what sort of timing should i be running? i have it slightly advanced via the dist. also, i lost my vacuum advance....wondering if i should reattach it to a new vacuum source or if it's ok to run it without any vacuum.
will post a few pics of the complete setup in a few mins...(the other pics were taken before i even had the car running yet)
#11
really nice set up i have the same thing with same driving attitude need a reg. still do u have headers and exhuast? i hear thatll really help it pull over 6k im very happy wit mine though and i drive it eery day w/o air filter still runs great so far about 1.5 k on the carb
#13
yes...racing beat header and 2.25" exhaust with no cats.
i have some mesh screens covering the trumpets now just to keep out the big stuff, i'm not really worried about them.
i have some mesh screens covering the trumpets now just to keep out the big stuff, i'm not really worried about them.
#14
Originally Posted by FBDrifter
yes...racing beat header and 2.25" exhaust with no cats.
i have some mesh screens covering the trumpets now just to keep out the big stuff, i'm not really worried about them.
i have some mesh screens covering the trumpets now just to keep out the big stuff, i'm not really worried about them.
since the carb sits on top of the motor, you dont have to worry about sucking big pieces of dirt or crap kile that, and it looks bas *** too with the huge trumpets pointing at you!!!!!
#15
did a little tinkering. i guess i can't leave stuff alone :o
i redid the intake manifold gasket. on the initial installation i just cut one out from gasket paper...when i removed the paper this time, i saw that it wasn't making a seal where the ACV passage is.
well this time i used some sosmetal make-a-gasket and made sure to get all the contact areas. only...it runs differently now. it was sort of wanting to die. so i adjusted my idle rpm screw on the linkage and raised it to around 1200rpm. this kept it from dieing..but the engine still sounded like it had a miss. so...i went over to the dizzy to play with the timing, on FULL advance, it smoothed out the idle, but also raised some rpm. i was wondering if maybe some coolant was getting past my gasket material and making it idle funky, but the exhaust is clean and clear(no smoke) and there is no water dripping from the tailpipe.
what rpm should i be idling at with this setup?(smoothly)
i didn't have time to take it out for a spin.
i redid the intake manifold gasket. on the initial installation i just cut one out from gasket paper...when i removed the paper this time, i saw that it wasn't making a seal where the ACV passage is.
well this time i used some sosmetal make-a-gasket and made sure to get all the contact areas. only...it runs differently now. it was sort of wanting to die. so i adjusted my idle rpm screw on the linkage and raised it to around 1200rpm. this kept it from dieing..but the engine still sounded like it had a miss. so...i went over to the dizzy to play with the timing, on FULL advance, it smoothed out the idle, but also raised some rpm. i was wondering if maybe some coolant was getting past my gasket material and making it idle funky, but the exhaust is clean and clear(no smoke) and there is no water dripping from the tailpipe.
what rpm should i be idling at with this setup?(smoothly)
i didn't have time to take it out for a spin.
#16
IIRC i run 14 degrees advanced at idle, stock centrifugal advance, no vaccuum advance (cant or shouldnt have it with DLIDFIS... forget which)... and a Dell 48DHLA, idles smooth as hell around 900rpm.
#18
Originally Posted by rxseven07
born again! can u post pics of ur throttle bracket
You should use air filters, as it all it takes is for a small piece of debris to get inside the car and there goes the engine.
There are differenct types of air filters you could use. I use foam type in my 45DCOE. Also, do you have a fuel regulator? Webers need to be between 1.5 and 2.5 psi no higher than that or they will flood...
On the pic I didn't see any oil metering lines. Do you have those connected. How about the bacum advance...
#19
Originally Posted by FBDrifter
driving impressions: gobs of power from 4k-5.5k but i feel a drop in power as it gets closer to redline.
may just need to change the jets...currently running 160 mains.
may just need to change the jets...currently running 160 mains.
#20
Interesting discussion on the jets. I have a 45DCOE setup on mine, and the thing runs like a banshee all through the rev range, and will continue pulling past 8,000 if I let it. Idles smooth at 1000. My mains are 160, and air jets are 185.
I also keep the foam filters on the carb. Too much money and time to risk a foriegn object. I have the Carter pump and Holley regulator set at 2.5. I also have run an oversize fuel supply line to assist with volume.
The only issue I have with mine is part throttle cruising above 4,000. The car bucks and stumbles. From what I've read, I think this is primarily an issue with the emulsion tubes, but I need to learn and tinker more. It doesn't bother me in day to day driving or in autocross; it only bothers me because I know it is not right.
I also keep the foam filters on the carb. Too much money and time to risk a foriegn object. I have the Carter pump and Holley regulator set at 2.5. I also have run an oversize fuel supply line to assist with volume.
The only issue I have with mine is part throttle cruising above 4,000. The car bucks and stumbles. From what I've read, I think this is primarily an issue with the emulsion tubes, but I need to learn and tinker more. It doesn't bother me in day to day driving or in autocross; it only bothers me because I know it is not right.
#21
These are the setting on my 12A street port:
WEBER 45DCOE JETTING
40mm Chokes
4.5 Auxiliary Venturies
Accelerator Pump Jet 50
Emulsion Tubes F11
Idle Jets 60F9
Main Jets 200
Air Corrector 180
Fuel Pressure between 1.5 lowest to 2.5psi highest
165 hp at flyweel @ 3900 rpm
136.3 hp at rw @ 3300 rpm
229 pound of torque @ 3000 rpm
WEBER 45DCOE JETTING
40mm Chokes
4.5 Auxiliary Venturies
Accelerator Pump Jet 50
Emulsion Tubes F11
Idle Jets 60F9
Main Jets 200
Air Corrector 180
Fuel Pressure between 1.5 lowest to 2.5psi highest
165 hp at flyweel @ 3900 rpm
136.3 hp at rw @ 3300 rpm
229 pound of torque @ 3000 rpm
#22
Originally Posted by 31rx7
Interesting discussion on the jets. I have a 45DCOE setup on mine, and the thing runs like a banshee all through the rev range, and will continue pulling past 8,000 if I let it. Idles smooth at 1000. My mains are 160, and air jets are 185.
I also keep the foam filters on the carb. Too much money and time to risk a foriegn object. I have the Carter pump and Holley regulator set at 2.5. I also have run an oversize fuel supply line to assist with volume.
The only issue I have with mine is part throttle cruising above 4,000. The car bucks and stumbles. From what I've read, I think this is primarily an issue with the emulsion tubes, but I need to learn and tinker more. It doesn't bother me in day to day driving or in autocross; it only bothers me because I know it is not right.
I also keep the foam filters on the carb. Too much money and time to risk a foriegn object. I have the Carter pump and Holley regulator set at 2.5. I also have run an oversize fuel supply line to assist with volume.
The only issue I have with mine is part throttle cruising above 4,000. The car bucks and stumbles. From what I've read, I think this is primarily an issue with the emulsion tubes, but I need to learn and tinker more. It doesn't bother me in day to day driving or in autocross; it only bothers me because I know it is not right.
Is your car street ported? which engine 12A or 13B?
What are your idle jets? and the rest of the setting?????
Chokes?
Auxilliary Chokes?
Emulsion tube?
Pump Jet size?
Idle Jets?
etc, etc...
Do you know the horse power output....
#25
Originally Posted by calvinpaul
Is that your max hp or is did you not get it above 4000 on the dino?
Will see then... I still have some finetuning to do.... still likes to drive a little bit rich... does not like to be lean...