I just instaled a dual weber 36 dcd setup on my car, however the car is very hard to keep running. It will not idle and it is running very rich. So, I am wondering if anyone knows how to tune these cars and also when the choke is pulled out half way the car will still not stay running. On the nikki carb i could pull the choke out halfway and the car would run around 2000 rpm. This does not happen on this setup, does anyone know of what could be wrong?

 

I still have the stock fuel pump on so could it be the wrong psi?

 

You definately need a better fuel pump for this setup, and a good regulator.

Start with that first, i've got the same setup on mine.

 

What psi are these carbs spose to be running? I am goin to instal duel fuel pumps soon and hopefully that works better.

 

does anyone know where i can find an online manual for a weber carburator?

 

I got that setup with a 13B 4 port I purchased. I took it to my rotary mechanic and he told me they were horrible for street and I would not be happy with them. He suggested I sell them and just buy the 48 IDA setup they sell on RacingBeat.com. The guys has been racing and working on Rotary's since the early 80's therefore I took his advice. Just like the saying from Tommy Boy goes "you could get a good look at a t-bone steak by sticking your head up a bull's ***, but wouldn't you rather take a butcher's word for it"?

 

I have some dual fuel pumps put in now but the car still wont start, I noticed that the carb is only getting gas when you are pushing the gas pedal down. If you stop pusing the gas pedal and just let it sit, no matter if its all the way down or half way, gas does not go into the carb. Does this mean that i need a regulator or should i check the floats and everything?

 

psi should be around 4-5 on this setup

What pumps are you running? and what is it regulated at?

 

I am not sure, i got the pumps from the same guy I got the carbs from. He had this setup on his car and he said it ran fine but I didnt ask about a regulator. I looked around on the pumps to try and find a psi rating on them and they didnt have one.

 

I think i know which pumps you are talking about, are you sure you are gettin fuel to the bowls? Does it sound like its about to start? or just cranking? Check the plugs that they arent fouled, and check the a/f mixture.

Put in the idle speed screw fully, then back it out about 4 full turns, and the idle mixture out about 2 turns as well on each carb. That should get it started and will hold an idle, albeit high.

Post how it goes, and i'll see if i can help more once you've done that.

 

Steaks come from STEERS, not bulls.

Hollywood...

 

Usualy the first time you try to start it, it sounds like it is about to start. A few times it has come realy close, but if it doesnt start the first time, it usualy just cranks after. I am going to go try as soon as the battery finishes charging.

 

Make sure your getting good spark to all four plugs as well

 

All we had to do was prime the fuel pumps. There was no gas in the fuel pumps so it wasnt pumping anything. But shes idling and running now and good to go. It could use a little tuning. WOW theres nothing more exciting than finaly getting yer car running after a few days of work.

 

I am having a problem with my choke. On the nikki carb i could pull the choke out half way and it would run at 2000 rpm until it warmed up. On this carb if I pull out the choke the car just dies. I figure that I am probable running to rich but would i have to adjust the mixture screws or do I have to get a fuel regulator? Also, if it is the mixture screws how do i adjust them??

 

Yeah, you are running too rich.

The choke on these carbs is internal, theres no choke plate. It opens up a circuit which dumps more fuel into the carb. You need to adjust the idle mixture, its the screw at the base of the carb above the spacer.

Turn it in fully, (dont tighten!-just by hand), then back it out 3 full turns. Turn on the car. Then, turn the front carb in half a turn at a time until you hear it stumble, then back it out half a turn. Do the same with the rear carb. To fine adjust, you need a vacuum gauge or an O2 sensor at the least.

Hope this helps

 

I have been working on it for the last little while and I still cant get it. I have adjusted and set the carbs and everything but the choke will still not work. It seems to have gotten better, it is closer now than b4. Could it be that I have a vaccum leak or anything like like? I think that my exhaust manifold might be leaking and i could have a leak in my intake manifold as well. I am going to check the gaskets on those both soon but i do not know if this would b the problem.

 

Are the two hoses coming out of the passenger side of the carbs the vaccum advance hosses? That is where i had them connected because it seemed to make the most sense but i am not sure if that is the actual the vaccum advance or vaccum lines at all.

 

I only have one vaccuum hose on mine, its for the brake booster line.

My vacuum advance is disconnected completely,

 

Do you just have plugs on your distribtor and carbs and everything? Could I get a few pictures of your setup just so i can see a few of these hosses??

 

If I were you I would disconnect vac. advance on the dizzy and reset your idle timing to about 5° advance.
Leave the dizzy vac. ports open and plug the manifold side where the signal came from.

For dual carbs to work right, they need to be 'sync'd.. You definitely cannot expect the same tuning results by just putting on carbs that somebody else said ran great. Even between exact same engine types.
I don't know a whole lot about them, however, there are good books on the subject of tuning webers. You won't find good step-by-step info about tuning your particular setup online for free. At least, I couldn't when I looked awhile back on tuning DCOEs. There is excellent info out there for free, tho, but you will have to put it all together yourself.
A local dyno shop could also be very helpful.
Good luck!

 

Don't plug the dizzy, just leave it open to the atmosphere

I'll try to get you some pics, but there is only 1 line coming from the intake manifold, for the brake booster.

The vac. advance for the dizzy is just open, and its a good idea to put a pcv valve (via peejay's thread) for the crankcase venting.