Way to rig a manual choke?
#1
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Way to rig a manual choke?
Hi all
Somewhere along the line someone removed all emissions from my 79, including the choke parts attached to carb. I’d like to have that part working or rig a manual choke.
Any tips?
Last edited by mwpayne; 10-20-19 at 04:49 PM.
#3
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Thread Starter
#6
Junior Member
ok when you pull the choke you see the little limiter move Ig you can call it a limiter, it basically allows the choke to be able to move. well if you tie the arm for the choke itself to that limiter arm it will work. unfortulently the spring on the choke will pull the choke back unless you hold it there, or remove the spring. a twist tie or paperclip may work. it's similar to how you swap to mechanical secondary.
#7
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
ok when you pull the choke you see the little limiter move Ig you can call it a limiter, it basically allows the choke to be able to move. well if you tie the arm for the choke itself to that limiter arm it will work. unfortulently the spring on the choke will pull the choke back unless you hold it there, or remove the spring. a twist tie or paperclip may work. it's similar to how you swap to mechanical secondary.
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#9
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...cheap-1138128/
#10
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
What’s missing?
Ok 79 carb gurus, I have the choke now but there’s some bracket missing for the choke cable.
Anyone have this carb that can take a look see?
Anyone have this carb that can take a look see?
#12
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Thread Starter
Also it’s adjusted all the way back, still too much slack. I’m obviously overlooking some
thing
Last edited by mwpayne; 12-28-19 at 02:37 PM.
#15
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Thread Starter
Agreed. Hoping someone has a pic I can use to figure out what’s what.
#16
Slowly getting there...
iTrader: (1)
Here's a pic of my old stripped Nikki. The bi-metal coil is removed but it still has that linkage your working on (which controlled high idle). I'll see if I can find any other pics (sold the carb).
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
#17
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Thread Starter
Here's a pic of my old stripped Nikki. The bi-metal coil is removed but it still has that linkage your working on (which controlled high idle). I'll see if I can find any other pics (sold the carb).
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
#19
3D Printed
Joining the thread out of curiosity.
mwpayne, perhaps you could take a few photos showing more of the linkages? Something from the top showing the whole choke/fast idle arm, as well as one from the side showing the linkages (if you can get to it) would be really helpful. One of the linkages where they attach to the primary shaft would also be helpful as Jeff noted the issue might be there.
mwpayne, perhaps you could take a few photos showing more of the linkages? Something from the top showing the whole choke/fast idle arm, as well as one from the side showing the linkages (if you can get to it) would be really helpful. One of the linkages where they attach to the primary shaft would also be helpful as Jeff noted the issue might be there.
#21
3D Printed
Oh, yeah that's it. I totally missed that photo in post #10.
mwpayne, you'll have to pull off a couple pieces to get that flipped around, namely the throttle cable bracket and the bimetal spring bracket. It will be easiest to do with the carb off, as I don't know how you'd get to some of those screws otherwise. Now I'm wondering what the deal is with the fast idle rod.
When that linkage is correct, it should be essentially parallel to the top of the throttle cable bracket. After fixing this you may have to readjust your fast idle linkage depending on how it is right now.
Edit: Looking at it again, you might be able to just turn the linkage ccw without removing anything (besides maybe the fast idle rod). This could be done without removing the carb, although you might still want to pull off the bimetal spring bracket for easier access. Also, that little flange (in the picture: lower part of the rotating linkage, sticking out to the left near the spring) is what the spring should be caught on.
mwpayne, you'll have to pull off a couple pieces to get that flipped around, namely the throttle cable bracket and the bimetal spring bracket. It will be easiest to do with the carb off, as I don't know how you'd get to some of those screws otherwise. Now I'm wondering what the deal is with the fast idle rod.
When that linkage is correct, it should be essentially parallel to the top of the throttle cable bracket. After fixing this you may have to readjust your fast idle linkage depending on how it is right now.
Edit: Looking at it again, you might be able to just turn the linkage ccw without removing anything (besides maybe the fast idle rod). This could be done without removing the carb, although you might still want to pull off the bimetal spring bracket for easier access. Also, that little flange (in the picture: lower part of the rotating linkage, sticking out to the left near the spring) is what the spring should be caught on.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; 01-06-20 at 05:35 PM.
#22
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Thread Starter
Actually since I’m going to be painting car and engine bay, I’ll be sending engine to RR for a rebuild. So I’ll have carb off. Once I do that maybe I can post better pics so I can better understand what you guys are trying to help with, or even perhaps send carb to someone to get all this straightened out.
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