1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Watts link Bolt (Need Help Removing)

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Old 04-26-08 | 10:28 PM
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Druken's Avatar
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Nekurd

 
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Watts link Bolt (Need Help Removing)

Well I got all 6 side bolts off the rear end and the sway bar, but I can't get the nut off of the part that connects the watts links. Does anyone have tips or hints as to how to make this job a whole lot easier? This is the last thing I need to remove before I can take out the complete rear end. Please help. THanks
Old 04-26-08 | 10:35 PM
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rotornoob's Avatar
emissions r teh sux

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cut it and replace with new watts link bushings, bolt, and nuts.

the watts link kits through ac delco are cheap as hell
Old 04-27-08 | 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by rotornoob
cut it and replace with new watts link bushings, bolt, and nuts.

the watts link kits through ac delco are cheap as hell
None of the bolts on the center pivot of the watts link are replaceable. They are all pressed and welded studs. Unless you mean where the watts link attaches to the body.

I used an impact, though on the one I pulled from the junkyard, I used PB blaster, a good wrench and a dead blow mallet to motivate the wrench.

Last edited by Sgt Fox; 04-27-08 at 03:42 AM.
Old 04-27-08 | 03:34 AM
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Apathy Isn't Laziness

 
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PB Blaster and breaker bar and/or pipe.
Old 04-27-08 | 10:31 AM
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Whatever you do, don't cut it. That will ruin the rear end, as the stud is welded on the rear end, and you are not going to get a replacement easily.
PB and lots of torque is good advice. Hitting the wrench hard with a hammer works in many cases too.

An alternative is to undo the two smaller bolts or nuts that attach the arms of the watts link to the body. Then you can work on the main nut with it off the car. These nuts could also be rusted, but are higher up and exposed to a bit less dirt and moisture. However they are harder to access with a breaker bar.
Old 04-27-08 | 10:53 AM
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Cut it off and replace it with a panhard bar. That watts is a piece of junk! You put a panhard on and that car will NEVER move side to side again and totally change the way the car feels for you.... (in a good way) !
Old 04-27-08 | 09:34 PM
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Nekurd

 
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I sprayed it 3 times, with PB Blaster, over a course of 24 hours, I then waited another 24 hours before attempting again. I then got the right size socket, 21mm, and bought a rubber mallet and gave it 2 good wacks. The bolt came loose with ease and everything worked out. Thanks you guys. If it didn't work, I was going to cut the nut off and replace it with another one.

Word to the wise: Use a lot of PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit for awhile before attempting to take it off. It will usually be an easier job later on.
Old 04-27-08 | 09:40 PM
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Isn't a pan hard set-up a little expensive though?
Old 04-27-08 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Druken
Word to the wise: Use a lot of PB Blaster or WD-40 and let it sit for awhile before attempting to take it off. It will usually be an easier job later on.
Skip the WD-40, it does nothing to loosen rusted nuts and bolts. I advocate PB Blaster because it saved me when I did my suspension swap.
Old 04-27-08 | 10:06 PM
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I came across the same problem. Ask a friend for help.
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