Want to get my first RX7, How much should I be paying
#26
Not to start a flame war or anything but I follow a very different methodology.
I would much prefer to have a cheaper, decent shape car with fresh motor and solid, clean straight body and interior, than a shiney pile of parts worth $15k, at least looking back to when I was 15.
I think the FB interiors are gorgeous, and feel a sports car is about the driving experience including aesthetic and comfort, not merely peak horsepower alone.
A car with better low end torque and powerband, tasteful suspension upgrades, and a good driver WILL out perform a car with significantly greater peak HP with an average driver as soon as you hit that first corner. Long straight stretches? Sure, wind them turbos up. Anything else? Enjoy the turbo spool lag!
I suppose for OP - it's entirely up to you bro. The car requires an unknown amount of money to finish. If its something you want to take on then give 'er.
Personally I would avoid a sitch like that until you've built a turbo setup yourself, tuned it successfully, and understand the basics of a turbo rotary setup.
If it doesn't intimidate you, that's a dern good deal for that shiney pile of parts!!
-Geoff
I would much prefer to have a cheaper, decent shape car with fresh motor and solid, clean straight body and interior, than a shiney pile of parts worth $15k, at least looking back to when I was 15.
I think the FB interiors are gorgeous, and feel a sports car is about the driving experience including aesthetic and comfort, not merely peak horsepower alone.
A car with better low end torque and powerband, tasteful suspension upgrades, and a good driver WILL out perform a car with significantly greater peak HP with an average driver as soon as you hit that first corner. Long straight stretches? Sure, wind them turbos up. Anything else? Enjoy the turbo spool lag!
I suppose for OP - it's entirely up to you bro. The car requires an unknown amount of money to finish. If its something you want to take on then give 'er.
Personally I would avoid a sitch like that until you've built a turbo setup yourself, tuned it successfully, and understand the basics of a turbo rotary setup.
If it doesn't intimidate you, that's a dern good deal for that shiney pile of parts!!
-Geoff
#27
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
you can't tell if the rust is there just waiting to bubble up or not. All the typical rust
spots for rx7 are basically covered by the widebody except for the bins. Did you
pull the rear bins and look for rust there yet?
Don't say you want to DD this thing as well
#28
I paid $500 for my 85 GS with 87,000 on the odo. The thing ran like a top when i got it, and still does. i think most of our cars are overpriced because of sentimental value that people hold in them.
#30
Full Blown 1.1
Join Date: Jan 2013
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The car is surprisingly (based on the other people's views on wide bodies) rust free!
From what I could tell, the car doesn't need too much work done on it that would require money. Most of the work needed is more time consuming and difficult then expensive. Although I'm not very experienced mechanically, I've got many connections with older and experienced guys with shops.
From what I could tell, the car doesn't need too much work done on it that would require money. Most of the work needed is more time consuming and difficult then expensive. Although I'm not very experienced mechanically, I've got many connections with older and experienced guys with shops.
#31
Backfire blaster
Join Date: Dec 2012
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I can only share my experience with you about my purchase in 2008. I paid around $3000. for my 1979. It was not winter driven and had a fresh professional paint job done by a friend of mine. A professional paint job is worth at least $1000. The rest of the car was in relatively good shape for its age with low KMs. It passed the safety check without any mechanical work so I was able to put it on the road and start driving it right away. As the car proved itself to be reliable, I slowly started to replace the little things it needed like door seals, oil cooler mounts etc. There were lots of loose trim pieces and other things that rattled. The nicest thing I did to it was to install keyless entry. It wasn’t too hard to install and not that much money. Most of the parts you might need for one of these cars are found easily and fairly reasonable. They are also fairly easy to work on for the average mechanically inclined person. I haven’t worked on an engine yet though. I was glad to be able to drive it right away and experience the zoom zoom. I also worked on it because I wanted to not because I had to. I have photos on my profile you can see. I have two now, beware they are addicting.
Good luck in your decision.
Good luck in your decision.
#32
Hello World
iTrader: (1)
I'll confess my experience, as well. I have a 1985, 74,000ish miles on it. All original. And, I mean all original, except for the tires and both headlights have been replaced. The only modification to it is that I removed the cold-start assist system. I paid gasp $5k for it. I'll admit, I was willing to pay a little more because it is exactly like my first car. Oh, and it's the 12a, not the 13b. Maybe I paid too much, I dunno. But, it was the car I wanted and I'd been looking for that model, in that color, for a very long time.
Oh, and I'm an old guy, so my season of life is different than yours. :-)
Oh, and I'm an old guy, so my season of life is different than yours. :-)
#33
Lol pricey much?
I am 14 and only paid about 600$ for my '85 she needed some work but I am deciding to rally her ( that's another story entirely.) Honestly you could find one in better shape and maybe even drivable home for less then $1500. Just remember, DO NOT GET A HONDA!!!
I am 14 and only paid about 600$ for my '85 she needed some work but I am deciding to rally her ( that's another story entirely.) Honestly you could find one in better shape and maybe even drivable home for less then $1500. Just remember, DO NOT GET A HONDA!!!
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