Using GM Igniters
#28
i mounted my gm igniters rite off my disty by the original top screw, i think they are slightly more reliable ythan stock, and yes i carry 2 spares, ps they put out 20%more spark duration than the stockers , my tach worked fine after i wired around the factory harness sraight to the tach, and off the leadings instead
#29
Dankus,
Any pics of you setup? I'd like to see for myself how it looks when you got it all done 'cause I'm thinking about switching to the HEI modules myself.
Since you put them right in the stock location you probably didn't need a heatsink right?
Can you explain, maybe in more detail, how you got around the tach problems when switching to the GM units? Did you just rewire the tach or something?
Thanks!
Any pics of you setup? I'd like to see for myself how it looks when you got it all done 'cause I'm thinking about switching to the HEI modules myself.
Since you put them right in the stock location you probably didn't need a heatsink right?
Can you explain, maybe in more detail, how you got around the tach problems when switching to the GM units? Did you just rewire the tach or something?
Thanks!
#30
I'd like to see a DLIDFS system that uses the GM HEI ignitors.
Here's what the HEI module looks like:
W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.
Does anyone know which mag pickup connector on the distributor is positive and which is negative? Knowing that bit of info and by following jeff20b's DLIDFIS wiring diagram it should be a snap to construct. Thoughts anyone?
Here's what the HEI module looks like:
W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.
G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.
C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.
B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.
Does anyone know which mag pickup connector on the distributor is positive and which is negative? Knowing that bit of info and by following jeff20b's DLIDFIS wiring diagram it should be a snap to construct. Thoughts anyone?
Has anyone done this and is there a wiring diagram/\?
Kevin
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seveninphilly (08-13-19)
#34
I've had the HEI on my Probe GT for over a year and 20k miles now (due to a "dead" disty) and haven't had problems. Seems like a good/cheap alternative for the RX7 too. I'll have to give it a shot later.
As for finding the module at stores. It was used on '75-82? Gm vehicles.
The GM part # is 10482820
Niehoff part # DR400
Wells part # DR100 (what I have)
As for finding the module at stores. It was used on '75-82? Gm vehicles.
The GM part # is 10482820
Niehoff part # DR400
Wells part # DR100 (what I have)
#36
I started poking around and found out I have a couple more wires comin put the dist. I need to figure out where they go. But I wanted to tell you I bought the gm ignitors. I stopped a the local pepboys and they only had one. Figure that out. A part that is known to fail that was in a couple a million cars and they have one. Well none now. And boy did he look at me silly when I changed it from a 79 nova to a monte carlo.LOL
Kevin
Kevin
#37
Two Black wires coming out of dist that go coax, Connect them to ??? I have power at the ignitors power at the + on the coils but no spark. Only thng I haven't replaced is the cap and wires. I've been building the car for 7 years but it's only got 135 miles on it????
Kevin
Kevin
#39
I carry a couple of J109s in the glove compartment of each car, just in case. And they were cheaper used than the GM ignitor.
The trick is to make sure the heat generated by the ignitor is dissipated satisfactorily, which is why you must use heat conducting grease to mount them. You can get it at the autostore checkout counter, or at Radio Shack.
25 years of RX-7s and 4 on the road now, and I've never lost an ignitor.
Keep a spare J109, a packet of heat sink grease and a little offset (right angle) phillips screwdriver in the glove box and you're covered.
The trick is to make sure the heat generated by the ignitor is dissipated satisfactorily, which is why you must use heat conducting grease to mount them. You can get it at the autostore checkout counter, or at Radio Shack.
25 years of RX-7s and 4 on the road now, and I've never lost an ignitor.
Keep a spare J109, a packet of heat sink grease and a little offset (right angle) phillips screwdriver in the glove box and you're covered.
#41
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/dizzy-square-one-hole-wire-762316/ This and more just keep searching for ddflis and anything like it.
#43
Cleaned the wiring up today somewhat and thought I would send a pic for the thread. Can everyone else tell what's going on in this? Sometime when your real close to it you assume it's as plain as day.
Now if I could get it to start warmmmmm................. timing ???24 and 16??
If I do this the bolt is almost at the end of the slot. Do I need to bump the distrib over a tooth?
Now if I could get it to start warmmmmm................. timing ???24 and 16??
If I do this the bolt is almost at the end of the slot. Do I need to bump the distrib over a tooth?
#44
Hi, we need an igniter, have put in a rebuilt engine, and need a source for parts. This is our first RX 7, 1980, bought it running but leaking oil like a sieve, got the engine rebuilt, now seem to have to replace most of everything else. Put a new starter in, now the igniter has gone. Do you know where we can get one? Thanks, we are new here,
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ncds_fc
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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09-15-15 12:03 AM