3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

well i think that i have finally got my ever heating problem fixed. the only problem im having now is the temp goes a lil over 150 and as soon as i give it some gas it goes back down to 150 and its good, by the way this is a stand still.what could cause this. back in oct i changed my radiator, t-stat, temp senor, hoses. a about a month ago i bypassed my heater coil for my cabin heat. and between today and yesterday i changes my water pump, t-stat again,add some water wetter. the cap on my over flow tank doesnt stay on wont stay on would that cause any problems at all

thanks guys
charles

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Check for air locked bubbles in the system, make sure your water pump is in good shape, and your fan is operating correctly.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i just put in brand new pump from mazdatrix, when i pulled the old one off it was light and the fins lookd cheap the pump was all around cheap looking, the new looked way better. i got a 2300 cfm e-fan. i ll wait for her to cool down and i open the rad. cap and check for fullness of water.

capt murph

I don't know , but that sounds lowww
150F? Giving it gas and seeing the temp rise seems normal too, at least for a short period.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Are you using an oem Mazda thermostat? I had a non oem one in mine and had the same issue. I will never use any thing but oem now.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

im sorry its at 180F it goes beteew like 170 and 185 or so.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

yeah im using a oem i had to pay $23 for it but yeah i got one

bkm_rx7

looks like you pretty much have the problem narrowd down....youve checked damn near everything that could cause the problem cept for the t-stat...so either go oem like suggested or get a colder one...like 160? but that seems wrong...cuz a car is supposed to run at a certain temp to be efficient...and running too cold is bad...and since a rotary engine runs and burns hotter than a boinger...id say that about 175 is a good temp man.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

it does go up alil past 180 thats what makes me wonder if it completely solved or not i forgot to mention that i put a daul alt pully from mazdatrix also, i dont know if that will change anything

Phiber Optik

iTrader: (2)

sounds like an air bubble to me

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

if thats the case i ll just make sure that i open the rad cap every morning b4 i start it and go from there

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you are staying between 170 and 185, you're fine. Not too cold, not to hot. I take it you have and aftermarket temp gauge.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

no i have the gauges from scotthrbacek its a round about number. i just went out there and started her up and im having the same problem as b4 the t-stat aint opening i tried to rev it up to build some extra pressure and it just kept heating up so now im back to square one woo ******* hoo!!!

Modified85

Do you have the dual belt system on the water pump? Its a must for modified cars.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

yeah man! i got it from MazdaTrix i ll take some pics tomorrow i removed the airpump( i still need to the plate on the LIM ) i started to remover the ac pump also. under the hood is still dirty once i remove all the **** that im going to remove im going to clean it all up

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i dont know what to do now i thought i had it fixed but last night i went out and ran her up and she heated nice and slow and then startd climbing past the midway point, the t-stat wont open.i have changed everything from the radiator to the water pump and just about everything in between. my cap for my over flow tank wont stay on would this cause the problem

Modified85

I had a problem like this and it ended up being that the belts were slipping on the water pump. Try tightening your belts. Can you grab the water pump pulley and spin it, I realized that I could actually turn the water pump pulley and watch my belts slip.

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i ll give that a try. i pulled them last night and they felt fine maybe bc they are new belts the strecthed alil and i have to retighten them

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

i chked my belts ( dual allt pully) i chked them from where the belt goes from the alt to the main pully and there was about 3/4 inch of play they where tighter than that so they might have streched alil. incase this doesnt solve the problem what else could it be?

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

well i think i knkopw why it was over heating yesterday, i think it was bc there was no coolant and the t-stat neck, so i cracked the radiator cap while it was running and while it was pressurized (stupid i know) but it got the coolant in the neck and it was runing and cooling fine. and then my cap was leaking and then stoped so i drove it up to pepboys and got a new cap. everything was fine till i got All American Freeway and she started to over heat. i pulled over to the side of the road and what do you know the hose that runs from the t-stat house to the intake was leaking so i let her cool down and filled her back up and drove her almost all the way home and she couldnt takke it any more ( i knkow that i shouldnt drive it but i had too i was 5 mile from the post and it was likek 35 degrees outside so i had to take a chance) i pulled off to the side of the road and walked the rest of the way to the barricks 1.5 miles. i got my other car and ran to a closer auto parts store and got some 3/8 caps and pulled the hose off and capped them off and tomorrow im going get 2 more caps and do the exut of the intake and take the other hose off. is there anything else that i have missed so i dont have to go throught this again i have all new hoses, radiator, t-stat, sensor, water pump,e-fan, dual alt pully, and i cant think of anything else at this time.

bkm_rx7

...just a thought...are you running your heater at all??? you might have a clogged heater core....i know this is kinda out there...but im not sure what else it could be...and you DID mention that it was 35 degrees out...so just a thought....

-brenden

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

no im not running my heater i bypast it bc it was leaking into my passenber side of the car. im going to have to wait till tuesday to do anything with the car im going to pull the plugs and get them on a wire wheel and clean them up and put em back on

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Just a thought, when you are adding or topping up the coolant, always keep the rad cap off and let it warm all the way up. When the tstat opens you see a gush of water come into the top the radiator ( and sometimes it will event splash out some ) then you should see the fluid level drop as the cool collant gets pulled into the block. Just top it up again and let the tstat cycle a couple of times, adding fluid if seems low each time. Also, grab the hoses and give them a squeze every now and then that will help get the air out of the system. If you have the heater core hooked up (I know you don't) have the heater blasting on high so fluid flows thru the heater core as well. Once your satisfied the coolant is all topped up, fill the over flow bottle and put the rad cap back on. You shouldn't have any air in the system if you do it this way. Good luck.