TurboIIGuy

Okay what the hell. I did the radiator sealer fix everyone talks about. I did it just like most of the posts have indicated which is almost liek the directions on the bottle. I have been driving on it for almost a week with no problems. Wensday I start my car after not having driven it for 2 and a half days. I start her up, let her warm and she is fine. I put it in gear and take of and after about 1/8 of a mile on my way to a gas station down the street a couple of blocks I get a thick trail of smoke oozing out. All was fine then I look back and within a couple of seconds of seeing a thin trail it's so thick it's camoflauging the street and the car behind me.
I rev it up a bit and it only throws more smoke. I go back home pissed off and late for school. I park it, kill the motor and let it sit for a few minutes. I come back out getting ready to work on her or try and do something for it. I start it back up and only a small trace of steam is coming out of the tail pipes. I come back inside to hit the forums and share my problems. As I'm waiting for the pc do boot up I go back outside to pull my car into the driveway, probably 12 minutes after the last time it was running. I start it up and she has no smoke now at all, so I check the water level. Only down about an inch from the top of the radiator, no problem. I drive it down the street and around the block and there is no smoke. The smoke it had earlier was definitely from coolant being burned, I am positive, it is not hard to confuse with oil, they are very different.
Any ideas what the heck is going on here? I only used one bottle of sealer the first time, should I use a second?What could cause such a situation? Could I have a pinhole leak that is a problem until the motor warms up to full operating temperature?

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I had an 85 GSL that did EXACTLY what you are talking about for a good few weeks, but then one day it was just gone. I never touched a thing under the hood, just waiting for it to die, but it never did and then it went away, it was definatly weird.

~T.J.

TurboIIGuy

Finally someone that knows the drama that I do!!!!!!!!!LOL

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

DRAMA...u guys will get a grammy for this.

slashdawg00110

Or maybe an Academy award.

jays83gsl

****, Rotomotordriver could turn his escapades into a movie and win MULTIPLE awards, lol!

TurboIIGuy

Well, it's been 11 days now since I did the almighty radiator sealer fix. It seemed to work but would still smoke like a fire after leaving it sitting for a long while and then starting it again. But, I came to a conclusion. I was doing a fan swap from the original to a pontiac fiero electric fan when I realized that I had locked up the clutch on the stock fan by smashing it with a hammer when it went out. Since doing that the car would never warm up, it would stay between the very first and second lines on the gauge next to cold, so I figure maybe, just maybe, it didn't let the fluid warm up enough to seal properly. So after putting on the pontiac fiero fan, I put another bottle of radiator sealer in her and controlled the fan to keep the needle in the center of the gauge like it originally is supposed to be when the stock fan works. I think this time it did a better job of adhering because after the first try it seemed like a lot of the sealer product came out when I drainded the system out for a flush. This time, not nearly as much came out. Now it doesn't smell like its burning coolant. After the first try, and after warming up the car and the exhaust clearing up each day, it would still smell like coolant after a drive, and the coolant level would drop of course.
She's doing good now. If only I could find time to put on the racing beat lightweight steel flywheel and street/ strip pressure plate and install a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing before they break that would be great. Oh yeah and install my headers, that'll take me all of half an hour.

TurboIIGuy

okay so it's been months sinc ethe last post....Much has happened. The motor got a rebuild, just soft gaskets, lightweight Steel racing beat flywheel with street/strip pressure plate installed. RX2 carb also installed for slight power increase with throttle response while retaining some conservative fuel mileage......I had bought a dellorto side draft with racing beat manifold but I only ran it for a couple of weeks before taking it off, to much gas and noise, Cops seem to like me a lot out here, no reason to give them an opportuniy....hhahah
I purchaased a complete racing beat exhasut on Ebay in January for $160 shipped to my door and installed that. Then in march I think it was, I found a brand new Racing beat air intake assmbly for $40 with foam filter. SO i picked that up and installed it.....I just yesterday found out a buddy of mine has a 4.44 ring and pinion gear set lying in his garage so I picked those up. Oh and I found some 15 inch enkeis but I crashe into a curb back in January after having them on my car for about a month......But I found another set in better shape then mine were for a great price.........I installed a Kenwood MP3 deck with a couple of Amplifiers, some compnent speakers and a 12 inch JL audio W6 sub and am pushing about 1700 watts through my car now. Ummm....................I think thats it.......Oh and an electric radiator fan was installed..............Wow to think I almost sold it a while back......Now its a beast umongst the streets.
I am currently sanding it down to the metal in Body shop at school, its going to get a fresh coat of the original color silver that it was. My turboII is also almost done......I have just this year gotten my hands on an authentic Mazdaspeed turbo exhaust manifold, a nice garret turbo and Cartech wastegate.I also got a nice dual HKS exhaust setup with stainless steel Y-pipe. I have new injectors and a complete rebuild kit with apex seals and all.........I'm just trying to figure out what I am going to do for fuel management.........Any ideas toss them in..............Peace

bliffle

Some guys don't like to sand down to bare metal, since then you gotta establish a new tight bond to the surface, they just go down far enough to use the old paint as primer/bond. The original paint was pretty good, and the bond was very good.

B

TurboIIGuy

I discussed this exact thing with my instructor at the body class. He has about 30 years experience and works for B.A.R. so I feel comfortable with the decision. I actually wanted to sand to the metal in the first place and he said I didn't need to. But after I started sanding the car, which was heavily blistered over %20, we saw that there was rust on the metal under the blistering as well as up to an inch away from the edge of the blisters after sanding. We soon then realized that the car had some light body work done before, maybe from dealer by the quality of paint matching, and it was that which caused the blistering. When we had our last rain season the water was actually seeping in and pocketing itself under the paint here and there. The rust was not corrosive, just light surface. So I wanted to get in there and clean the metal to start off fresh. Not the entire car will be sanded to bare metal, the doors and roof, one fender, and the hood were all okay. Anyhting else I didnt list was blistered though. I am going to use metal etching primer, it should all finish up nicely, I hope.........LOL

Pen_Two

Wow, before I posted this I should have read all the pages.

TurboIIGuy

okay..........another problem has arisen with my car......Here is the post on it....

Some one help!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/wont-start-help-1984-12a-rx7-439496/