1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Turbo Water Line

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Old 07-07-04 | 05:46 PM
  #26  
r0taryluv's Avatar
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Mr.SEBoost

 
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From: Florida
Lovintha7... good theory, but I do understand what Jimmy is saying. The more surface area that is exposed allows the heat to disspers off the turbo and downpipe, but in return dissperses the heat in the engine bay which is good in theory for cooling the turbo some but what you dont want is the extra temp staying in the engine bay. This is why I wanted to wrap the downpipe from the turbo/downpipe flange just back to where the downpipe reaches the firewall. This way the heat will disspers underneath the car rather than in the engine bay. Later on if this doesnt cut back on underhood temps I was going to figure some way of making a Heat sheild to cut back on engine bay temp too. Like I mentioned earlier I would like to keep it looking like a Sleeper. ;] Those Honda Boyz wont know what just Woped up on them.....
Old 07-07-04 | 07:08 PM
  #27  
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Originally posted by jimmyjoejoe
that's not true about the heater hose pressure. it'll always be flowing, and there's going to be a marginal difference between the pressure from side to side. the only thing that opnes up is a little panel to allow airflow through the heater core.
You're wrong. There's a valve that controls coolant flow through the heater core. With the heat off there will be no pressure on the return. Just like fatboy said.
Old 07-07-04 | 07:25 PM
  #28  
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From: 3OH5
Wrap your downpipe, and make a heat shield around the intake. You can even put a heat shield around the exhaust side of the turbo. It's good for under hood temps and quicker spooling.

I personally don't like water cooled turbos, but If I were you I would just have the radiator shop weld two fittings on the radiator. One above, and one below for the feed and return of coolant to the turbo.

Don't run a thermostat, but DO plug it off to prevent the pump cavitation.

Good luck.
Old 07-07-04 | 07:58 PM
  #29  
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From: Florida
Well with this little adventure I am not to fond of the water cooled turbos etheir. If I go with that theory then all I would need is a feed welded on the top of the radiator and just "T" into the heater hose return line for the turbo water return. But If I were to go this route and make a fitting on the radiator what would feed/push the water through the turbo? The turbo doesnt draw water through it. Even if I dont T into the Heater return and just return the water into the Raditor through the bottom like Alex is saying, nothing will circulate the water. The pressure from the radiator would just fight each other. This is why I was looking at trying to put it in the cooling system of the car to have the circulation. But to think that the heater hose doesnt have water untill the heater is turned on doesnt do any good. So if I wire the valve open I will have the Heater fighting the A/C in the summer times"Yes, the A/C Workz" ;]. And if I were to bypass the Heater Core unit and just make it go straight to the turbo then I will have no Heat during the winter. It does get cold on days here in Florida. I'm still in debate here, how am I going to route this water?
Old 07-07-04 | 08:07 PM
  #30  
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The heater valve is inside the car so the feed hose will have pressure even when the heater's off. Just tee into that for the turbo feed.
Old 07-07-04 | 09:08 PM
  #31  
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From: Southern Cali
that's why the heater core will still warm my cabin up if the selector is on hot and the fan is totally off, huh? *shakes his head*
Old 07-07-04 | 09:38 PM
  #32  
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Mr.SEBoost

 
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From: Florida
Anyone know where I could find something like this for our cars? Water Filler Neck
Old 07-07-04 | 10:56 PM
  #33  
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
Originally posted by jimmyjoejoe
that's why the heater core will still warm my cabin up if the selector is on hot and the fan is totally off, huh? *shakes his head*
Think about what you're saying. The heat selector is what opens and closes the valve. So yes, if the selector is on hot you will have coolant flowing through the heater core.

Go and have a look under your dash where the heater lines come through the firewall and tell me what that valve is in the feed line.
Old 07-07-04 | 11:16 PM
  #34  
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Mr.SEBoost

 
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From: Florida
Ive found my solution to this problem. I am going to get a S4 water neck and tap off it, just take it to a radiator shop to get them to weld the correct sizing pipe to go to the Turbo. This way it will have fresh coolant that will be pushed through the lines, as the coolant is pulled from the radiator to go into the engine it will also feed the turbo. Now that I have a water feed, I will then T into the Heater hose about mid ways on the rubber hose leading to the return on the radiator. This will still leave a clean setup. ;] .....what do you guys think of this solution?

Thanx for everyones Input!!
Old 07-08-04 | 12:25 AM
  #35  
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From: LOS ANGELES
I ran a water through my turbo an first set up and the engine always ran hot...boiling for minutes after i shut off the car. On my current set up, I didn't hook up the water lines (even though the turbo is made for it) and it runs alot cooler. No heat soak at all. I guess what I'm trying to say is; you don't have to run water through it if you don't want to.
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