OK getting close to putting the REX up on jacks to start the trubo setup. Was thinking how I am going to tap it into a water line. Was told just to "T" into the heater hose return line. My thoughts on "T"ing into the heater return line is there wont be much force to push water through the turbo housing. So what I came up with is to redirect the water through the turbo, meaning to come off the copper line on the passenger firewall directly into the turbo and then from the turbo directly to the return on the radiator. Would this work out fine making the turbo part of the coolant circulation. I did some research on here trying to see what others did but it doesnt seem that many people have a Garret turbo with the water chambers. Here is a link to my Garret T03 Housing with T04 turbins and T04 Compresor, all on a Cartech Manifold with the original Cartech Wastegate which I plan on keeping till a later upgrade. "-SE Boost....... This setup will be put on a Original -SE motor.

 

since when do you tap into a water line for a turbo? i though you had to use oil? your bushings/bearings will burn right up with water.

 

hmm, after looking at your picture, there's no denying you need to tap into a HUGE water line for that. my words of wisdom - there's probably a good reason you don't see many of those around.

 

Did you check out the pic? There is still a oil line, this turbo uses both water and oil to cool it. So hoping it will keep it cooler in return keeping the engine bay a slite bit cooler too. I am going to wrap the downpipe with heat tape to keep temps down some too seeings I want to keep it a sleeper with no hood vents.

 

hopefully you're not running stock muffler piping for that either. heat TAPE? you mean that aluminized stuff? that does reduce under-hood temps, but it increases temps out the rest of the exhaust.

 

Going to run 2 1/2 Stainless Steal pipping back from the downpipe which I will put a Flang on so I can upgrade the Downpip later on, to a Oval MagnaFlow muffler followed but more pipping then ending into another Round MagnaFlow Muffler. Keeping the pipping at 2 1/2 to keep the back pressure up some so the turbo will spool up faster, seeings the turbo is a little big for everyday driving.

 

right on, you did your homework. "***-kicking turbo", huh? hehe. i pretend to be takumi, sometimes. it just ends me up in a ditch somewhere.

 

Just a Quick question on your words of Wisdom.... why is it that you dont see many of them? I am just cerious. I think it would be better to have it with water going through it to help cool the turbo down and keep temps lower. The oil and the Water chambers are seperate, so there are no seals that will blow out in them.

 

water does have a high heat density, but a low boiling point, even with antifreeze added into it. figure, the water with antifreeze will have a combined boiling point of, oh, say, 250 F. oil can tolerate a whole lot more (considering our oil temperatures will stay constantly at about 250... under 80 psi, too) since a - it's more viscious, and b - it has a higher heat density (that's why you can cook food faster by frying it than boiling it, oil can retain that much more heat)

so, even if the chambers are seperate, rotary exhaust when you're pushing it, will be at about 1200 F, especially if you wrap it. idling, there's been stories on here about people having their cats glowing orange. There's very little surface area between the turbine side of the turbo to the bearing surfaces to expel heat, so most of that will be retained. i'm pretty certain you'd be able to flash-boil your antifreeze if it got hot enough, causing vapor lock. hence, that's why you don't see them. plus, it's just one more thing to go wrong. KISS.

 

This turbo setup is using both Water and Oil to cool it... it will have a oil feed coming from a RB oil adapter, and then having the coolant flowing through it too. You keep saying that the heat wrap will make it hotter, the heat wrap should just push the heat on down the exhust and being Stainless Steal pipping and Stainless Steal Mufflers this shouldnt have any problem handling the heat. But I am always open minded to others theories, this way I can correct things before they happen ;]

 

it will make the turbo housing hotter since that's the place that heat will be expelled initally. usually, turbo exhaust is a little cooler than NA because of that extra surface area right off the rotor housing, but it won't have anywhere to cool for a little while... are you going to run the oil output from your turbo straight to your pan?

 

Im going to drill and tap the front cover right under the OMP for the oil return line with a -10AN hose. So another words you are saying not to wrap the Downpipe so it can assist in cooling the turbo housing? I figured with wraping the pipe keep the engine bay temps down and then having the feature of water cooling the turbo housing too that heat wouldnt be a problem. This is my first turbo setup here and about a month ago I didnt know JACK about Turbo charging any vehicle! So Im trying to figure out the best route to hooking up this setup. Ive got Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,Cartech Boost Dependent FMU,Autometer A/F gauge,Autometer Boost Gauge,86 Pillar Pod,RB Oil Adapter for feed line,86 Voltswagon 3 wire Bosh O2 Sensor,Have a shop that is going to do all the pipping(bends,welds,etc) $206 including the Stainless Steal Pipping. I am trying to work alot of this out before I put her in the air.

 

wrapping does keep engine bay temps down, but it will heat up the water temp coming out of the turbo housing going back into your coolant loop. the only harm you're going to do by heating up the engine bay is upping the intake charge temp if you draw air from the engine bay. i would make a snorkel for it if i were you, for most effect.
where's your boost-dependent FPR? that'll help

 

Well the intercooler is made for that ;] and once that hot water leaves the turbo it goes "Directly" back in the return of the Radiator for cooling again. So the Turbo is at the end of the loop of the heater hose, which is still warm water but Alot cooler than that turbo is ... where are all the turbo FBerz?!?!?!?! Needing some more info here :] .. I do have to say thanx Jimmy for your input.

 

no problem. hopefully i was helpful.

 

also, the intercooler will never lower the temperature of the incoming air past what the temperature is going into the turbine. compressing the air inherently makes heat, and intercooled air goes by so quickly it only loses a portion of that heat. what would be really slick is to cut a hole in the firewall to lead into the air intake for the passenger compartment ventilation system, and fabricate some kind of WRX scoop onto the top of it.

 

i hope you realize that the stock rx7 turbos have both water and oil lines

 

he was trying to take water out of a spot that was dependent on the thermostat opening. it's possible he could bake the water in there waiting for the thermostat to even open up.

 

PLUS, it's coming out of the hot side of the water, which doesn't help matters.

 

very true

 

Water cooled center sections are actually a good idea. The coolant isn't really there to take tons of heat away, it's too far from the bearings to see the high exhaust temps. The only thing the water does is keep the oil cooler. The oil is what is taking the brunt of the punishment. Water cooling helps eliminate oil coking. Of course, using good oil and changing it on a regular (2500 miles) will go a long way to eliminating oil coking too.

 

If you take the coolant from the heater hose, make sure to take it from the engine side, not the return side. The return side will only have pressure and flow when the heater is turned on. And even then the vast majority of the pressure will be gone.

 

that's not true about the heater hose pressure. it'll always be flowing, and there's going to be a marginal difference between the pressure from side to side. the only thing that opnes up is a little panel to allow airflow through the heater core.

 

Heat wrapping a pipe keeps the exhaust gases hotter, which in turn make the exhaust flow better through the pipe, so it carries the heat with it.

My $0.02

 

It seems that everyone has a different opinion. I am glade that Fatboy pointed out the advantages on having the water cooled mid section. What I was looking at is that it was an extra cooling solution to that hot turbo sitting there on the exhaust. But makes more sense that it is there to cool the oil that is really doing the cooling work on the turbo. From what i know about the heater hose that there is always water flowing through a small radiator type core, which like Jimmy said allows flows coolant, and when you to turn the inside fan on and then blows the heat generated from the hot water into the cockpit. Notice that if the car starts to over heat and you turn on your heater it does help cool the temps down some, not saying it is a life saver but it does help quite a bit. Weird a quote from LongDuck that I found on another thread "Don't forget that if you block off your heater core feed from the radiator (lower hose attach), that you'll also need to block off the heater return on the driver's side of the block, just below the Oil Filter tower.

If you only do one, you're still going to lose coolant once it heats up, and you'll lose it very quickly.

When I had my radiator rodded out and rebuilt last month, I had the shop weld down the heater feed, then installed a plug on the return line. My prior bypass used about 4 feet of heater hose going from the radiator feed all the way along the firewall and back into the return. This was to bypass the heater core inside the car, since my temp control valve was rotten and would spray hot coolant on my right foot in colder months."

From what he is saying that the Heater Feed is the bottom nosel, which I thought was the return portion. Is this correct? If so than running water from this line would be GREAT. I thought the water came in the motor though the top which has to pass through the termostate,then was pushed through by the water pump through the Intake housing then going back into a water jacket in the rear rotor housing then works its way around back out right underneath the oil filter into the fire wall through the heater core then back out of the fire wall down the passenger side then returned into the radiator at the bottom. But of course there is other feeds through the water jackets on the rotor housings and then the main engine return was the "S" shape hose connected at the bottom. I could be wrong..."?"...?
Sorry for the long post guyz.