Trouble mating tranny to engine....
#1
Trouble mating tranny to engine....
i have put on a new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate from racing beat. having trouble mating the tranny back to the engine. afraid to force it and damage my fresh oil seal on pilot bearing...
any recommendations?
just doesn't seem to wanna fit.
i used a mazda clutch alignment tool
clutch fit onto tranny before install(as test fit for spline)
it just seems if i "force" it any further, i might F up the pilot bearing/oil seal.
thanks in avdance
any recommendations?
just doesn't seem to wanna fit.
i used a mazda clutch alignment tool
clutch fit onto tranny before install(as test fit for spline)
it just seems if i "force" it any further, i might F up the pilot bearing/oil seal.
thanks in avdance
#2
If you're stuck trying to get it to engage the pilot is all. 1/2" or so gap between motor and bell.... hook the slave cyl up and have someone push on the clutch while you wiggle and push toward the motor.
When the clutch disengages, it allows the disc to float and find that just right spot.
When you use the alignment tool, you have to wiggle it around when you tighten the PP down and find the spot where when the disc is stationary, the tool comes out with the smallest effort. Off a little and the input wont wanna engage the pilot.
When the clutch disengages, it allows the disc to float and find that just right spot.
When you use the alignment tool, you have to wiggle it around when you tighten the PP down and find the spot where when the disc is stationary, the tool comes out with the smallest effort. Off a little and the input wont wanna engage the pilot.
#3
well... tried one more time and destroyed the oil seal on the pilot bearing.
also, the motor is not in the car.
is it possible to properly mount the tranny to the motor before dropping in?
now i nee to order new oil seal...
also, the motor is not in the car.
is it possible to properly mount the tranny to the motor before dropping in?
now i nee to order new oil seal...
#4
If you are having trouble installing the transmission onto the engine with the engine out of the car then you do not have the clutch installed properly. It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to install.
Take a picture of the clutch installed so we can take a look at it.
Take a picture of the clutch installed so we can take a look at it.
#5
it will be apart for a few days, while a couple new pilot bearing oil seals are in the mail.
using the alignment tool, i centered the clutch, while tightening down the pressure plate.
not sure what i did wrong.
also, it is a 70's 13b 4port engine, and a 12a(83) tranny.
racing beat spec'ed the whole assembly over the phone.
when i get it back together with the new seal, ill throw up a pic before i destroy it again.
using the alignment tool, i centered the clutch, while tightening down the pressure plate.
not sure what i did wrong.
also, it is a 70's 13b 4port engine, and a 12a(83) tranny.
racing beat spec'ed the whole assembly over the phone.
when i get it back together with the new seal, ill throw up a pic before i destroy it again.
#6
question...
i got the whole kit(flywheel, clutch, pressureplate) from racing beat.
it is the race pressure plate an sprung 4 puck clutch(215mm)
my question
when installing pressure plate, the "cone of springs" on the pressure plate is squeezed perfectly flat when i tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel. is this normal. i do not recall the factory or excedy setup looking like this.
i got the whole kit(flywheel, clutch, pressureplate) from racing beat.
it is the race pressure plate an sprung 4 puck clutch(215mm)
my question
when installing pressure plate, the "cone of springs" on the pressure plate is squeezed perfectly flat when i tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel. is this normal. i do not recall the factory or excedy setup looking like this.
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#8
I think this dance is the the rotary enthusiast's version of calf roping. It's a symphony of finesse, beer and pure luck! Try using the starter hole in the bell housing to twist back and forth with one hand, while jiggling the tail section of the tranny up an down with the other. Push toward the block with both hands while doing this. It's like patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time.
#9
Try using the starter hole in the bell housing to twist back and forth with one hand, while jiggling the tail section of the tranny up an down with the other. Push toward the block with both hands while doing this. It's like patting your head and rubbing your stomach at the same time.
something doesn't seem right.
#10
best thing i ever have done to make the procedure fool proof is get a couple of very long bolts and cut the heads off of them. Position them at opposite corners of the transmission and use them as your mounting guides, it is fool proof!
#11
No one else mentioned this so I will. You shouldn't rely solely on the alignment tool. Been there, done that, ruined pilot seals and damaged clutch disc slpines and had to dress them with a file.
The fix that works EVERY TIME for me is to center the disc with finger tips while it is held there by the alignment tool. Do this just as the bolts begin to tighten the pressure plate against the disc, but while it can still move just a little. The disc usually is the same size as the pressure plate's friction surface, so centering the disc is actually quite easy and accurate using this method.
Because your disc is the puck style it may be slightly smaller in diameter than the p-plate surface. Get it centered as good as you can.
The fix that works EVERY TIME for me is to center the disc with finger tips while it is held there by the alignment tool. Do this just as the bolts begin to tighten the pressure plate against the disc, but while it can still move just a little. The disc usually is the same size as the pressure plate's friction surface, so centering the disc is actually quite easy and accurate using this method.
Because your disc is the puck style it may be slightly smaller in diameter than the p-plate surface. Get it centered as good as you can.
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