dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i know search yadda yadda yadda. im in a major rush for time. im looking at the haynes manual and im getting no where. heres the scenario:

i installed a dellorto on my car. i didnt like it, so i tried to reinstall the nikki. when i tried to start it it revved to 3k then died and wont start.

here are some pics of how i have everything hooked up. where did i go wrong?

the car is an 85.

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

First of all you'll find that by starting your post out as "I know search yadda yadda yadda" wont get you much help, in fact it would be faster to search than to post that and wait for a reply. Searching doesnt take that much effort.

Did you reuse the intake manifold gasket or the carb gasket? Did you not connect all of the vacuum lines? these would be starting places...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You're having the worst time with carbs. 2 suggestions, but you've probably already done them. Download the carb manual and compare your setup with the stock one, then compare your mods with the rats nest removal.

Reving to 3k is not good. Recheck the cable connections, it's not hard to get them mixed up if you're still using all 4 cables. Then check the sight windows for fuel.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i know. i didnt mean for it to sound as bad as it did. as trochoid stated above ive been having all kinds of carb problems lately. i havent even got to really dirve my car in a week. ive been getting about 4 hours of sleep a day due to this crap. its just getting really aggrivating. im not 100% sure what to search for either. ill try searching now since this is usually the time id be working on the car.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

my main source for info was the haynes manual. it doesnt show very good pics of how the 4 cables should be hooked up though, or the vacuum lines. i think i have all 4 cables on there correctly. other than the cruise. i couldnt get the cable to reach. oh well, i dont need it anyways

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

ive search for rats nest removal and i found this:

http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1_print.pdf

looks to be the write up the previous owner used to do the rats nest removal on this car. ill try to use it to compare how mine is now to how its supposed to be. only if itd stop raining!!

ive looked over the wiring diagram, but i cant see the connections as the carb too clearly. ill look at it more closely but i assume i have it hooked up correctly now.

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

why didnt you like the dell?

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Correct, that is the write up I use for all my rats nest removals.
Do each line by its self and then double check.
Also don't forget the vac on the lower left of the intake near the firewall.

Rogue_Wulff

One thing I ran across, once. The hot start assist cable can get in a bind, and cause the throttle to hang up. When it happened to me, the engine wouldn't idle below 3K. Really threw me for a loop, as I pulled the intake and carb as a unit.
Probably has nothing to do with it dying, though.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

thanks for confirming that. the brake booster? ill check it all over very well tomorrow. its raining like a **** right now. im tired of driving a damn jeep wrangler..worst vehicle to driver..EVER!

i couldnt get the thing to run right. i was also doing some thinking and its not what i need on this car anyways. this is my DD and i know id get much worse gas mileage with a 2 barrel design than with a 4 barrel due to the fact of not having to open the secondaries. dont worry, thats what the SP 13b is for

ill check over all of the lines tomorrow, but im 90% sure i got them all right. i couldnt get the damn cruise to reach long enough though so i just pulled it. didnt, and probably wouldnt ever, use it anyways. i took them off as a whole, but i pulled the carb off the mani so i could turn it to hook up the cables easier. if i can get the thing to atleast run i can use some carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks.




can anyone verify that my wiring is correct?

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i messed with it some more today. i figured out i had left a wire unhooked on the back of the carb, an orange that goes to a black solenoid with an orange circle on it. not 100% sure what that is.

i can start it every time but its choppy as hell. sounds like a machine gun, or go kart. it wont idle. i have to stay on the gas and even then its hard to keep it running.

after i let it die smoke starts to come out from bellow the carb. i initially thought it was coming from between the carb and the manifold. after furthure investigation i think its coming from the headers. it looks to me as though the headers are getting really hot. this means one of two things, timing or running lean.

i have had the fuel pressure from 2-3.5 psi. all with the same results. i cant get it to run long enough to check the timing, but it should be close enough to dead on to atleast run.

tomorrow i guess ill take the whole carb off and start over. ill spray it down with carb cleaner and try to reset my timing.

i still need verification on the wiring after the rats nest removal. it doesnt say in the write up i posted a link to above.

on a side note, i checked the timing while i was doing this, a little over 100 on the front and a little over 90 on the rear. i knew this wasnt the cause, but i checked just to make sure.

Rogue_Wulff

Did you remember to hook up the float bowl vent solenoid? I believe it needs 12V to it, when the key is on. Without that hooked up, it cause flooding issues.
Smoking after key is shut off can be a symptom of flooding.
I can't help on the other wiring, sorry. If I get a chance, I'll look over the wiring on my carb, and compare it to what you posted.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

float bowl vent solenoid? im not sure what that is. ill look it up and make sure its connected.

i checked the float bowls..well, the one of the side facing the radiator. im not flexible, or small, enough to see the other. the line was in the middle, where it should be. im fixing to go out and mess with it some more. hopefully i can get it fixed today.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

whelp, spent the day taking the whole intake and carb off. reinstalled it, cleaned the plugs, and charged the battery. no go. waited. messed with the carb some opened it up a couple times to dump some fuel in. tried again. it started, doing the same thing as yesterday. i went and checked the carb. brake booster was unhooked. hooked it back up. tried again, same thing. im about fed up and ready to give up.

oh yeah, on a side note. my ignition switch decided to crap out on me today to for no reason. now i have to about turn with all my might to star it and then i have to manually take it out of start mode to get the start to stop spinning.

i should have bought a honda...

Rogue_Wulff

Float bowl vent solenoid, just ahead, and slightly below, the fuel inlet of the carb. I *think* it uses a black wire, with a white stripe, but don't take that as gospel.

On the rear secondary runner, right near the engine, there is a huge vacuum port. Make sure that is also plugged.

Ignition switch, I have no ideas, other than pulling it out, and seeing if something has gotten into it.

EDIT: A starter button could be used, if the switch still works good thru the run position.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i have a spare switch set from an 84 GSLSE parts car.

ill go outside now to see if can see these ports. they shouldnt have come undone though. i just took the carb off last weekend. i tested the float bowl vent solenoid. i used a test light to make sure the wire it plugs into has power when the switch is on. it does. i then plugged them together and i heard it working. ill go check for vacuum leaks now.

on a side note. theres a VERY slight chance coolant could be getting into my intake. would it show same results. the reason i say that is when i installed the dellorto i "block" it with quarters and red sealant. i had to redo it a few times, but im pretty sure its fine now. i left them blocked off when i reinstalled the nikki since one of the rubber o-rings got damaged.

Rogue_Wulff

If the quarters are leaking, pull the intake off, clean those 2 quarters up, and find a couple more. Go to a parts store and ask for 2 20MM freeze plugs.(~$.50 each) I have the part number lost in my head right now........ If I find it, I'll post back. Maybe trochoid will see this, and post the number for you.
Those 20mm freeze plugs fit perfectly in the rotor housings.
Oh yeah, in the archives is a thread by Jon, and the part number is somewhere in that thread. Titled something along the line of " replacing intake gasket" or something like it.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

its 20mm. i tried every parts store in town. they all go from 18mm-32mm. no luck. i wanted to go that route but i cant even find a place or order then other than pineapple racing and they want $15 for a $.50 part. care to mail me some? ill gladly pay you

Rogue_Wulff

Hell, I got a 1/2 dozen of them, in the toolbox at the shop. 20 miles from the house.......
I *think* the dorman part number is 555-101. Check rockauto, I bet they have them.
If you still can't find any, I'll be going towards the shop Monday. I'll get a couple and send them to you. I owe someone on the forum a good deed, anyways.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i searched rock auto and i cant find a freeze plug listed for an rx7 at all. ill gladly pay you. im sure you ship faster anyways. im going to try the quarters again and hopefully itll be a good temp fix.

Rogue_Wulff

PM me your addy, and I'll get a couple in the mail by Monday evening or tuesday morning.

Also, you prolly won't find any info for these particular freeze plugs, when using RX7 as the model. Best way, is to search by part number, though I know many parts store websites don't have that option.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

got her running today! thanks everyone for all of their help.

i pulled the carb/mani and pulled the dizzy. i reinstalled the dizzy at TDC and tested every spark plug for spark. i then cleaned the heck out of the manifold to insure there was no old gasket left. then i cleaned up the gasket. it was rubber(?) and had some RTV sealant on it. i was in a rush/bind and my neighbor had a spare. after that, she fired righ up.

i turned the fuel down with the FPR to just below 2psi. the stock carb was putting out 2psi when i had the regulator hooked up with it. it flooded after i started it the first time and let it run. i had to pull the fuel pump fuse, start it up on teh existing fuel and put the fuse back in and it kept running. i went to get gas and it started up fine. hopefully itll do the same when i have to leave later for work.

what PSI should i run for the nikki? should i just take the carter and FPR off and put a new stock pump on it?

the header is smoking. im guessing due to the amount of coolant/water being spilled onto the header wrap. i figure itll stop after all of that gets cooked out. its kind of in the header gasket also, is this an issue? do i need to change the gasket?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Wait until all of the coolant burns off, it shoudn't have hurt the exhaust gasket. As far as fuel pressure, take it out for a couple hard redline rpm runs, then pull the plugs and check thier color. If there is no bogging in the upper rpms and the plugs are tan/brown, you're good.

I'd still like to see you get the Dell running. It may not have worked due to the other issues you had. You could JB-Weld the quarters in place, I prefer the freeze plugs though.

Rogue_Wulff

Glad to hear you got it running. I'll get those freeze plugs on the way to you tomorrow.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

trochoid--i know. id of liked to try out the dell as well. oh well. im not going to reinstall it. pointless since im aquiring a new SA with that exact set up very soon anyways

rogue_wolf-- thanks so much for the help. the quarters were only a temporary fix. ill be putting the freeze plugs in when they get here.