TPS Adjustment
#1
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TPS Adjustment
I did a search, and I know smnc just posted a similar problem, but neither covers mine precisely.
Basically, my idle was cycling slightly.... between 900 and 1100 rpms when warm. So the first thing that I tried was a TPS adjustment, cause I had never done it before anyway. I used two multi meters instead of bulbs. Anyway, at first there wasn't voltage on either, so I started turning the screw clockwise slowly. After about 9 turns (!?) I heard the solenoid click and it read about 10 Volts on one, but right after it read on both. Is the range of motion supposed to be THAT restricted for the right adjustment position?
Anyway, I wasn't all that convinced but I started the car to see how it would behave. Wel it idled a little low (~650) but very steady. I moved the air adjust screw until achieving a constant 800 and thought everthing was great. Took her out for a spin and at my first stop the idle stayed at 1300, and wouldnt go any less than that.
Did the whole thing again, this time having to drop the idle from 1300 to 800 (air adjust) and the exact same thing happened... it went back to 1300!
Finally, i checked for resistance between the 'mouth' and the right 'eye' of the green connector by the AFM and read ridiculously low (like 5 ohms closed and 20 ohms open).
Otherwise the car drives great.
Any thoughts on what could be the idle issue here?
Basically, my idle was cycling slightly.... between 900 and 1100 rpms when warm. So the first thing that I tried was a TPS adjustment, cause I had never done it before anyway. I used two multi meters instead of bulbs. Anyway, at first there wasn't voltage on either, so I started turning the screw clockwise slowly. After about 9 turns (!?) I heard the solenoid click and it read about 10 Volts on one, but right after it read on both. Is the range of motion supposed to be THAT restricted for the right adjustment position?
Anyway, I wasn't all that convinced but I started the car to see how it would behave. Wel it idled a little low (~650) but very steady. I moved the air adjust screw until achieving a constant 800 and thought everthing was great. Took her out for a spin and at my first stop the idle stayed at 1300, and wouldnt go any less than that.
Did the whole thing again, this time having to drop the idle from 1300 to 800 (air adjust) and the exact same thing happened... it went back to 1300!
Finally, i checked for resistance between the 'mouth' and the right 'eye' of the green connector by the AFM and read ridiculously low (like 5 ohms closed and 20 ohms open).
Otherwise the car drives great.
Any thoughts on what could be the idle issue here?
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
You're trying to adjust the wrong system if you're playing with the TPS when you're trying to correct 'surging'. The TPS was likely set correctly before you changed, but you're going to need to set it back to factory specs before you'll make any progress on your surging problem.
The TPS should be adjusted using either light bulbs in a test rig, or the voltmeter method, if you don't mind switching leads on the test/set connector at the AFM. Once you get the TPS set right (search on TPS), then go back and search on 'Surging' and 'SE'. This will net you a lot more information on how to fix the BACV that's causing the surging than what I can type out here for you.
Reply back if you don't find anything to run on. Good luck,
The TPS should be adjusted using either light bulbs in a test rig, or the voltmeter method, if you don't mind switching leads on the test/set connector at the AFM. Once you get the TPS set right (search on TPS), then go back and search on 'Surging' and 'SE'. This will net you a lot more information on how to fix the BACV that's causing the surging than what I can type out here for you.
Reply back if you don't find anything to run on. Good luck,
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Thanks LongDuck.
The thing is, when i tested the TPS with the voltmeters, I got not reading on either one, that's why I started messing with it. I counted the number of turns of the TPS screw, so do you think I should just turn it back and try fixing the BACV first?
The thing is, when i tested the TPS with the voltmeters, I got not reading on either one, that's why I started messing with it. I counted the number of turns of the TPS screw, so do you think I should just turn it back and try fixing the BACV first?
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