Tow Hooks
#1
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Tow Hooks
Just installed a set of eBay tow hooks on my ride. For those that aren't familiar, SCCA requires 2" ID hooks front and rear to pull your car out of gravel traps, sand traps, etc. If you do any sort of track stuff, they're a good idea so the towing vehicle has a good and obvious place to latch onto your car. Remember that once it's stuck in the pea gravel, anything more than a few inches below the bumper may be inaccessible.
These hooks swivel, so they swing down and won't bust your shins when you walk by. The rear one is welded to the OEM rear hook, which is very robust to begin with. For the front, I fabbed a structure out of 1/2" mild steel, which is attached with the two upper bolts for the OEM tow loop and a big 3/4" bolt through the OEM tow loop slot. It feels very solid. Most tow hooks can't be used as tie-downs, since the vertical load would bend them, but I think these are beefy enough to serve double duty.
These hooks swivel, so they swing down and won't bust your shins when you walk by. The rear one is welded to the OEM rear hook, which is very robust to begin with. For the front, I fabbed a structure out of 1/2" mild steel, which is attached with the two upper bolts for the OEM tow loop and a big 3/4" bolt through the OEM tow loop slot. It feels very solid. Most tow hooks can't be used as tie-downs, since the vertical load would bend them, but I think these are beefy enough to serve double duty.
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Originally Posted by sctty
Those are mighty swanky.
On the subject of SCCA legal tow hooks, I got a set from these guys. Not nearly as bling, but cheap and bolt it. Also suitable for tieing the car down.
On the subject of SCCA legal tow hooks, I got a set from these guys. Not nearly as bling, but cheap and bolt it. Also suitable for tieing the car down.
#5
Nice job on the fab work. I need to do something on the widebody, you may have solved my problem. The front hook will be a little rough on the paint, but it's a race car. You could coat it in Plasti-Dip, it comes in red and several other colors.
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Nice job on the fab work. I need to do something on the widebody, you may have solved my problem. The front hook will be a little rough on the paint, but it's a race car. You could coat it in Plasti-Dip, it comes in red and several other colors.
#7
I had to cut my front ones off to mount the front air dam of the widebody. It's a pita not having a front hook when I need to move the wb around when it's non-op. Removed the main rear one to clean up the the look, wasn't one of my better ideas in retrospect.
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Originally Posted by trochoid
I had to cut my front ones off to mount the front air dam of the widebody. It's a pita not having a front hook when I need to move the wb around when it's non-op. Removed the main rear one to clean up the the look, wasn't one of my better ideas in retrospect.
Here's a link to a BMW part: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html...hParamCat=Body
#9
Pics are in the widebody thread at the bottom of my sig. I thought about a web strap on the front after watching some of the races on TV and noticed them. Not convinced the round bar in the front will sustain a hard jerk when getting pulled out. I have seen them bent on 7s before and the only way they could have been bent in that manner was by hooking up to it and pulling the car. The strap would need to be off to one side and it would not work as a tie down on mine for sure with the air dam and underpan.
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Pics are in the widebody thread at the bottom of my sig. I thought about a web strap on the front after watching some of the races on TV and noticed them. Not convinced the round bar in the front will sustain a hard jerk when getting pulled out. I have seen them bent on 7s before and the only way they could have been bent in that manner was by hooking up to it and pulling the car. The strap would need to be off to one side and it would not work as a tie down on mine for sure with the air dam and underpan.
If the strap is relatively elastic (and most of them are), I would think the cross-tube would be OK. I could see a chain, however, on a really stuck car bending it, especially if there is slack in it. Also factor in that a track days tow vehicle won't be in as much of a hurry and will probably take more TLC with your car. Either way, that location doesn't look as cool, and won't work as a tiedown.
#14
After the turbo motor goes in, I'm going to install one of the shocktower mounted tow points... You have to cut a slot in the hood for it to pass through, but It's up high, and if you need to, you could pick the car up too!!!
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Originally Posted by Lt. Dan
After the turbo motor goes in, I'm going to install one of the shocktower mounted tow points... You have to cut a slot in the hood for it to pass through, but It's up high, and if you need to, you could pick the car up too!!!
His experience was that he hooked up to a car that was stuck in a gravel trap. The tow hook was up near the roof on the A-pillar. He began towing it, and didn't notice that the nose of the car had dug into the gravel, and the rear of the car was lifting high in the air -- about to do an endover. I think he heard the screams of onlookers before he flipped the car on the roof, but you get the point -- lower is better. He opined that no tow hooks should be mounted above the bumper.
This guy has campaigned to have the rule book changed. If you google "tow hook", it'll appear.
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