Top left bolt on thermal reactor
#1
Top left bolt on thermal reactor
Hey guys, I have a stock 1980 Rx7 just removed the rats nest and now removing the exhaust, but I'm stuck on the thermal reactor's top left nut . In my searching I have read that a 14mm swivel socket will work, but I was wondering if there was any other way? Tried an impact swivel but didn’t work.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
#2
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From: Chino Hills, CA
Mazda made a special tool for this; essentially a crowsfoot wrench on a dogleg extention, with a t-handle. Pure unobtanium, of course.
The practical way to get it off is to pull the intake manifold, but naturally that's a mess because you'll drain the block of antifreeze.
I actually replaced my top TR nuts with hardened nuts of a smaller outside diameter, specifically because of this PITA job - lets me use a flex socket OK. I used to switch between headers and TR every couple years, for my smog inspection.
There's a pic of the special tool in the FSM; maybe looking at it will give you some inspiration that has eluded me over the years. Or maybe someone can fab one up for you?
The practical way to get it off is to pull the intake manifold, but naturally that's a mess because you'll drain the block of antifreeze.
I actually replaced my top TR nuts with hardened nuts of a smaller outside diameter, specifically because of this PITA job - lets me use a flex socket OK. I used to switch between headers and TR every couple years, for my smog inspection.
There's a pic of the special tool in the FSM; maybe looking at it will give you some inspiration that has eluded me over the years. Or maybe someone can fab one up for you?
#3
Chris-
buy the pivoting socket works like a charm. Sears sells em for what? $10?
Keep the receipt and return it after your done!
HINT for re-attachment:
I bought a set of...10? 10mm (12mm??) COPPER, heat-resistant nuts from Pineappleracing.com designed specifically for RX7 exhaust fastening. Will not corrode or "weld" themselves to the studs. you know, for next time....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
buy the pivoting socket works like a charm. Sears sells em for what? $10?
Keep the receipt and return it after your done!
HINT for re-attachment:
I bought a set of...10? 10mm (12mm??) COPPER, heat-resistant nuts from Pineappleracing.com designed specifically for RX7 exhaust fastening. Will not corrode or "weld" themselves to the studs. you know, for next time....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#4
Lots of PB Blaster and let it soak in. I have never needed a fancy socket to remove any of the TR bolts. Top ones from the top, lower ones from underneath. I did have the advantage of a pit for getting to the lower ones. If the PB fails, try a little heat.
#5
Chris-
buy the pivoting socket works like a charm. Sears sells em for what? $10?
Keep the receipt and return it after your done!
HINT for re-attachment:
I bought a set of...10? 10mm (12mm??) COPPER, heat-resistant nuts from Pineappleracing.com designed specifically for RX7 exhaust fastening. Will not corrode or "weld" themselves to the studs. you know, for next time....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
buy the pivoting socket works like a charm. Sears sells em for what? $10?
Keep the receipt and return it after your done!
HINT for re-attachment:
I bought a set of...10? 10mm (12mm??) COPPER, heat-resistant nuts from Pineappleracing.com designed specifically for RX7 exhaust fastening. Will not corrode or "weld" themselves to the studs. you know, for next time....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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