Timing light
#1
Timing light
Really silly question here, but:
I did the 2GCDFIS about a year ago, and my car has run flawlessly.
I was replacing my belts today and (just because I had it handy) thought I'd pull out my timing light and see where my timing was set at.
I hook the pick-up to L1 and aimed the light down at the marker on the crank pulley....nothing (the light was flashing, but there was no mark?). Just for the heck of it I hooked it up to the T1....nothing?
I've said this many times....."Am I doing it wrong?"
I did the 2GCDFIS about a year ago, and my car has run flawlessly.
I was replacing my belts today and (just because I had it handy) thought I'd pull out my timing light and see where my timing was set at.
I hook the pick-up to L1 and aimed the light down at the marker on the crank pulley....nothing (the light was flashing, but there was no mark?). Just for the heck of it I hooked it up to the T1....nothing?
I've said this many times....."Am I doing it wrong?"
#2
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maybe.
#4
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seriously though, there are a couple things to check.
1. find the mark on the pulley and make sure you can see it, i find the factory pain daubs are hard to spot. i usually use some touch up paint to remark it, either spicy orange mica, competition yellow, or sunrise red.
2. if you have a timing light with a degree ****, turn it to zero. it involves math, and therefore is over my head, but the **** doesn't work on a rotary.
3. what happens if you put the light on T2? L2? (if you skipped the cap, L1 and L2 should be the same)
4. use the light and find the mark! the pulley will go on 4 different ways, maybe yours is 90 or 180 off (if you find the mark with the light on T2, then its 180).
1. find the mark on the pulley and make sure you can see it, i find the factory pain daubs are hard to spot. i usually use some touch up paint to remark it, either spicy orange mica, competition yellow, or sunrise red.
2. if you have a timing light with a degree ****, turn it to zero. it involves math, and therefore is over my head, but the **** doesn't work on a rotary.
3. what happens if you put the light on T2? L2? (if you skipped the cap, L1 and L2 should be the same)
4. use the light and find the mark! the pulley will go on 4 different ways, maybe yours is 90 or 180 off (if you find the mark with the light on T2, then its 180).
#5
Lives on the Forum
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Or your idle might be too high, inducing mechanical advance which would place the markings outside of the expected "range".
Or your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, inducing advance at idle (which you don't want) and again moving the markings outside of the expected range.
Make sure your idle is below 950, and remove/plug the vac advance lines just to be safe.
.
Or your vacuum advance is hooked up to manifold vacuum, inducing advance at idle (which you don't want) and again moving the markings outside of the expected range.
Make sure your idle is below 950, and remove/plug the vac advance lines just to be safe.
.
#6
Sin City Rotary
perhaps you've over revved resulting in the centrifugal force flinging the dots off lol
sorry,
yeah what's the idle at?
Is she running well? Don't mess with it!!
(I thought I was lossing my freakin mind last time I stabbed the dizzy, result no start to pull the dizzy out and was 180 degrees out of phase, father time is hunting me down lol)
sorry,
yeah what's the idle at?
Is she running well? Don't mess with it!!
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
(I thought I was lossing my freakin mind last time I stabbed the dizzy, result no start to pull the dizzy out and was 180 degrees out of phase, father time is hunting me down lol)
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#9
What Wacky said. He said more in this archived thread with pictures. Just send a Heine or 6 if it helps.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/ignition-main-pully-timing-525909/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/ignition-main-pully-timing-525909/
#11
talking head
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i think you need a better dot because when it wastesparks you also see the rear of the pulley 180 out and it confuses the issue
however as a footnote
the DLI setup is wasted spark and the inductive light is also triggering on the opposite rotor that is 180 out
but there is a phenomenon that some twin post coils can be prone to showing and effects some types of timing lights
with twin post coils one of the coils fires in opposite phase to the other
( the spark jumps from the side electrode to the centre electrode in one of the chambers )
often some inductive timing lights will not pick these up at all and you have to set the timing form the other lead
( which in wastespark situ means the same timing )
however as a footnote
the DLI setup is wasted spark and the inductive light is also triggering on the opposite rotor that is 180 out
but there is a phenomenon that some twin post coils can be prone to showing and effects some types of timing lights
with twin post coils one of the coils fires in opposite phase to the other
( the spark jumps from the side electrode to the centre electrode in one of the chambers )
often some inductive timing lights will not pick these up at all and you have to set the timing form the other lead
( which in wastespark situ means the same timing )
#14
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#15
talking head
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here is how you locate the front pulley with the mark up
if you have a standard flywheel on,, ( view from rear ) then the bite missing from the back ring will be pointing at the exhaust at 3 oclock
if you have an auto counterweight ,, then the bumps will at 9 oclock ( view from rear ) down the spark side
( look down inspection cover )
Originally Posted by bumpstart
if you have a standard flywheel on,, ( view from rear ) then the bite missing from the back ring will be pointing at the exhaust at 3 oclock
if you have an auto counterweight ,, then the bumps will at 9 oclock ( view from rear ) down the spark side
( look down inspection cover )
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