timin w/ gilmore drive
#6
Your overall performance (except wide open throttle) will be affected if you don't have the vac advance hooked up. So will your fuel economy. If your car has a carb, then hook a vac line to the nipple that is farthest forward at the base of the carb.
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#9
i would but i cant get over that "music to my ears"!!i'm lucky i got it when i bought the car**.......i fricken triped when i saw a gilmer drive on ebay with A 5 INCH belt....WOW....outrageously CoOL^
#10
Gilmour problems
My gilmour drive is rubbing on my alternator stripping metal of the pulley..If i loosen it.. its stops temporarily for like a day but then its back on again..Anyone got any solutions would be much appreciated thanks
#16
Gilmer belt (not gilmore) is a toothed drive belt that runs on notched pulleys. Common with modern piston engines for the cam timing belt since it reduces the high rotating inertia associated with chain drives and maintains proper timing while it is intact.
I don't know why anyone would want to use it with an ordinary fan and water pump setup since timing isn't important.
I don't know why anyone would want to use it with an ordinary fan and water pump setup since timing isn't important.
#19
#20
if you find a kiwi (sp?) they can get them for 300nzd or so. which is a little over 200$ us.
any one else think this would be a better setup then useing the tractor belts when you remove the smog pump.(running two belts ect.
i can bet a bunch of people from mass are going to flood the board when they find out on 1-10-08 they just have to pass safety if there car is older then 1994/ mite be 95 and older .
any one else think this would be a better setup then useing the tractor belts when you remove the smog pump.(running two belts ect.
i can bet a bunch of people from mass are going to flood the board when they find out on 1-10-08 they just have to pass safety if there car is older then 1994/ mite be 95 and older .
#24
im on oahu. i heard they got some pretty fast fb's over there.
i dont think anyone has done timing with a gilmer drive, but then again this car has been around for ages so someone has done it.
i dont think anyone has done timing with a gilmer drive, but then again this car has been around for ages so someone has done it.
#25
In order to set your timing, you have to find your TDC. In order for that, you will have to remove your side inspection plate.
On the passenger side of the engine bay, you will find the intake and exhaust side of the engine. Towards the back of the engine, before the transmission, you fill find a plate with 2 10mm or 12mm bolts holding it into the engine. I cannot remember what side, but I am leaning towards 10mm. Remove them. When they are gone, you should see the flywheel. Turn the front pully by hand until the FLAT SIDE of the flywheel (79-82 has a total FLAT side, 83-85 has a side with the grooves lacking, you will know what I mean) is parallel to the flat side of the engine. This finds your Top Dead Center. Now, with the dizzy OUT of the engine, align the line on the distrubter base with the dots. Slide it in, with little to no movement (preferably NO movement) on the distributer rotor.
You now have Top Dead Center (TDC).
On the passenger side of the engine bay, you will find the intake and exhaust side of the engine. Towards the back of the engine, before the transmission, you fill find a plate with 2 10mm or 12mm bolts holding it into the engine. I cannot remember what side, but I am leaning towards 10mm. Remove them. When they are gone, you should see the flywheel. Turn the front pully by hand until the FLAT SIDE of the flywheel (79-82 has a total FLAT side, 83-85 has a side with the grooves lacking, you will know what I mean) is parallel to the flat side of the engine. This finds your Top Dead Center. Now, with the dizzy OUT of the engine, align the line on the distrubter base with the dots. Slide it in, with little to no movement (preferably NO movement) on the distributer rotor.
You now have Top Dead Center (TDC).