Okay, so today after finishing my hood, I removed my hot start assist, and wanted to adjust my throttle because there was alot of slack in it. I know it seems straight forward, but I can not figure it out for the life of me. What's the proper way to do it. Also with the gas pedal all the way down, car off, should both the primary and secondary plates below the jets be open, or does the secondary side only work when the cars running? Thanks in advance!


-Mike

 

Unless the pedal has a lot of movement before the butterflys open, leave it alone. If excessive play, loosen the nuts on the cable on each side of mounting bracket, adjust per the FSM.

 

There is supposed to be some slack in the line, so that when the primaries are closed they are not being pulled on, which can twist the shaft very easily.

You will not see the secondaries open. They only open under load, so sitting in the driveway revving the engine will not open them.

 

With pedal to the floor, the primary (smaller) butterflies should be fully opened. If they are still partially closed, then you would take out some slack. Otherwise, its just right the way it is.

A lot of people will figure that there should be no slack, and take all of the slack out. Then, when they mash the pedal, they end up bending the throttle shaft and destroying the carb...




.

 

i imagine you don't have mechanical secondaries, so the only way they open is under load. but if you do have mechanical secondaries yes, they should open with the pedal all the way to the floor.

 

Ok, so, now I need an EXTREMELY detailed step by step on the mech. secs. I have literally read every thread and I still can not figure out what the wire ties to other than the secondary lever. If anyone can show a good picture, or give an extremely detailed description that would be awsome.

 

Don't take this wrong, but if you are having trouble figuring out how to adjust the throttle cable slack, you might want to think twice about modifying your secondaries.

You may find it more productive to get the thing working right as designed, before you start making changes that can introduce more problems.

Just saying: "Measure twice, cut once." Until you know that you need/want a mech. conversion, why do it?

 

I'd love to help in the mech secondary area of the issue, but mine are operated by a custom linkage that Sterling designs, so while I know how they work, and what would need to be done, it would be very difficult to replicate. Your best bet is to leave them alone for now. It's not really necessary, especially on a stock carb.

 

Time to begin your education.

Go to www.sterlingmetalworks.com and read EVERYTHING there. Guy's got a freaking library online now and should be mandatory study material.....