for those of you putting your cars up for winter:
#1
trainwreck
Thread Starter
for those of you putting your cars up for winter:
What are you plans for your car this winter if any?
Mine for me GSL-SE are:
Bodywork and Repaint
New Seats(Miata or those racin style ones)
New Carpet
A/f Guage and Oil Temp Guage
Fix oil leak at my Cooler
S5 Intake(if i can get it all to work)
Torque Brace
Money Depending Things:
Body Kit
Wheels
Tires
Mine for me GSL-SE are:
Bodywork and Repaint
New Seats(Miata or those racin style ones)
New Carpet
A/f Guage and Oil Temp Guage
Fix oil leak at my Cooler
S5 Intake(if i can get it all to work)
Torque Brace
Money Depending Things:
Body Kit
Wheels
Tires
#7
Scrub engine bay superclean.
OMP mod kit using the avation adaptor to run seperate 2 stroke oil
oil temperature guage.
replace rear carpet and padding.
suspension bushings
OMP mod kit using the avation adaptor to run seperate 2 stroke oil
oil temperature guage.
replace rear carpet and padding.
suspension bushings
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#8
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: East Tenn (Tri-Cities Area)
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Originally Posted by ranger306ci
Scrub engine bay superclean.
OMP mod kit using the avation adaptor to run seperate 2 stroke oil
oil temperature guage.
replace rear carpet and padding.
suspension bushings
OMP mod kit using the avation adaptor to run seperate 2 stroke oil
oil temperature guage.
replace rear carpet and padding.
suspension bushings
#11
Originally Posted by 1stgen_tn
I thought of going to the trouble of adding a OTG but, I got to thinking....Wouldn't the oil temp just be the same as the water temp? If the oil is to hot, the WTG should reflect that.
But I will have a number, not just a spot on the factory guage that could be anything.
I am VERY VERY **** about my engines on all my vehicles. I like to have actual numbers in hand.
#12
like ranger said, it depends on where you mount it. the racecar sees difference of ~40 degrees between oil and water. Water is mesured from factory location and oil is measured from oil pan. Ideally though you should mount it after oil cooler though, i'm sure the temps would be alot closer too.
#14
Senior Member
2nd gen front subframe swap.
Megasquirt.
Individual 38mm throttlebodies.
Some decent brake pads for above.
New struts for above hopefully.
Stainless brake lines hopefully.
Eaton M-90 (I wish).
Megasquirt.
Individual 38mm throttlebodies.
Some decent brake pads for above.
New struts for above hopefully.
Stainless brake lines hopefully.
Eaton M-90 (I wish).
#16
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Man.. I wish I had a Garage... As it is, my plans have to center around getting parts and money, and preparing for work I'll do when I un-tarp it in the spring. So here's what I've got:
Entire front steering assembly
- Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- Adjusting bolt and sleeve
- Pitman Arm and Idler Arm
And ALL the bushings on the car.
As well, I've got a small rust hole and an exhaust leak that have to be fixed.
Over the winter I'll save up the money and buy the parts to do this with, and in the spring I'll install it all and re-safety-check the car. Then I need to make a trip down to NY to get my carb tuned
All of this has to be done between April 15th and May 15th (when I can untarp the car, and when the May meet is in Ottawa)
Jon
Entire front steering assembly
- Inner and Outer Tie Rods
- Adjusting bolt and sleeve
- Pitman Arm and Idler Arm
And ALL the bushings on the car.
As well, I've got a small rust hole and an exhaust leak that have to be fixed.
Over the winter I'll save up the money and buy the parts to do this with, and in the spring I'll install it all and re-safety-check the car. Then I need to make a trip down to NY to get my carb tuned
All of this has to be done between April 15th and May 15th (when I can untarp the car, and when the May meet is in Ottawa)
Jon
#17
trainwreck
Thread Starter
i think you could get the tierods /adjusting bolt and sleeve, and arms done in the winter. Just wait for a nice day and shovel the ground off and get it done pretty quick. Bushings you could prolly do this winter also
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